The Dreaded 240D Clutch Bleed Gone Wrong

[Binnkin]

Howdy! Ill preface my question by saying that I took a few hours to look over previous posts related to bleeding the clutch on my 82 240d, but I have run into a bit of a road block.

I was driving home yesterday when I noticed that the clutch was taking its time returning after being depressed. A few hours later, it was getting difficult to shift and get into gear. This morning, I had to turn off my car, put it in first and then start it.. and as soon as I start the car with the clutch engaged the car starts moving.

I checked out the master clutch cylinder, and it looks like the steel hose beneath it was wet. Picked up a replacement MC and had no issues getting a new one in. Last step was to bleed the line..

6 hours later and half a gallon of break fluid all over my garage with no success. I opted for a hose going from the brake caliper to the slave cylinder. Loosened both bleed screws and started slowing pumping the break pedal. Spray everywhere. Picked up a new hose and some clamps. Got everything together and snug as can be but its still spewing everywhere!

I tried completely taking the slave bleed screw out just to see if I could get a gravity feed. Nothing.

I tried putting a pump which attaches to the lid on the break fluid reservoir which would push the fluid through the line. Nothing.

Is there an obvious step that Im missing? Ive bled breaks numerous times with no issues, but this has me stumped.

Does it matter if the clutch is engaged or disengaged? Does it matter if its in gear or neutral?

Any suggestions would be greatly, greatly appreciated!

[GGR]

The clutch needs to be disengaged and the pedal up. You also have to make sure that there is a bit of clearance with the rod pushing from the pedal into the MC. If the piston inside the MB is down a bit it will close the hole to the fluid reservoir and you won't be able to bleed it. So make sure the piston is all the way up. You can undo the pipe under the MC and slide a small alen key in there to push the piston up if it's stuck.

The best way I found to bleed the clutch is to buy a small oil squirter can. Fill it with brake fluid and clamp a hose between the squirter pipe and the open bleeder on the slave cylinder. Try to get as much air out of the hose before clamping it on the bleeder side. Pump the fluid in while keeping the hose in place. Have some one looking at the reservoir and tell you when the fluid is reaching up there. Lock the bleeder, take the hose out, and you should be done.

[DieselPaul]

On all my manual benzes I've used a pressure bleeder that screws onto the cap of the brake master cylinder and had the clutch bled quickly. They aren't expensive and make brake bleeding also super easy, you might look into picking one up.

Gravity bleeding has worked for me before as well. Just fill the reservoir and open the bleeder on the slave and wait. Close the bleeder pump the clutch a bit, then gravity bleed again. far from the fastest method but it does work.

[ZombieResponseUnit]

I just went through a Slave Cylinder leaking, and then replacing the slave. I'll 2nd DieselPaul on gravity bleeding. I just fill up the reservoir and pump the pedal a lot (~5min). It takes a little time, but you don't have to get under the car. My car is a w115, so don't know if that changes things.