Hyper Flash (Fast Blinkers)

[ScooterABC]

Originally Posted by ScooterABC

I'm 95% that the problem with your fast blinkers is the relay that is part of that switch. Do not buy a used one or try to fix yours. It won't turn out well. Plus access is a pain. Buy a new one from our friends at pelicanparts.com. You re-use your old knob.

Just to clarify, you _can_ find it on pelican parts, select your year and car model and search for the description "Hazard". The Bosch part number for the switch/relay is 0335240002.

Also, if all the lights are appropriately flashing, just not at the right speed (too slow, too fast, but all bright, etc) then I would still vote for the switch/relay being the problem. If it is a single bulb then a left turn signal and a right turn signal should flash at different speeds with a bad bulb / ground given that either left or right side would not be using that bad bulb / ground. If both sides flash fast then either you have more than one bad bulb or the relay is wonky. IMHO !

And yes, I have been there, and yes, I have tested about 5 hazard switches when I had my 1971 250C and found some that blinked normal, some that blinked fast, some that blinked slow, and some that even just had a solid "on" for the lights, which I equate to a VERY slow blink.

Scott

[craftysince86]

thanks for all the advice!

i'm on christmas break from work after today, i will follow up on these leads and try them out. last night i was looking under the hood and i did notice a couple chewed up wires on the passenger side from pack rats i assume, so that is something i am going to look at as well. can i just snip the section of wire that is chewed and use proper gauged wire to replace that section or should i undo the whole harness and use a single piece of wire all the way through?

[Mike D]

You can replace the section without replacing the entire length but use solder and heat shrink. Don't use "butt" or crimp type connectors. The crimp connectors work "okay" but they are much more prone to corrosion accumulation.

If the relay is bad (they can be dis-assembled and cleaned) you can "jumper" them and use a standard 514 or 552/536 flasher unit. Two short lengths of wire and two "spade" connectors is all that is required. The advantage to the new style flasher is you now have the option of using LED lighting for the turn/brake circuit. You would need to use a LED flasher unit if you intend to go the LED route.

[ScooterABC]

Originally Posted by Mike D

If the relay is bad (they can be dis-assembled and cleaned) you can "jumper" them and use a standard 514 or 552/536 flasher unit. Two short lengths of wire and two "spade" connectors is all that is required. The advantage to the new style flasher is you now have the option of using LED lighting for the turn/brake circuit. You would need to use a LED flasher unit if you intend to go the LED route.

I was not very successful when I tried to disassemble and clean. I spent more time on it than it was worth to me, but yes, you can do this. The tricky part is sliding the assembly back into the little aluminum casing while keeping everything aligned. My attempts were not successful.

I suppose you could wire in a modern flasher, my objection to this is that I think you would loose the feature of the flashing red dot on the flasher knob when you activate it. In my opinion, that would be a total show stopper!

I've been very unhappy with the LED choices available with the exception of some newer ones that I have as license lights on a modern VW. But I thought now that lots of them were designed with resistance such that modern car bulb-burnt-out detection would be fooled into thinking it a "normal" bulb. Mountains of led-bulb discussions on the InterWeb....

[craftysince86]

Originally Posted by Mike D

You can replace the section without replacing the entire length but use solder and heat shrink. Don't use "butt" or crimp type connectors. The crimp connectors work "okay" but they are much more prone to corrosion accumulation.

If the relay is bad (they can be dis-assembled and cleaned) you can "jumper" them and use a standard 514 or 552/536 flasher unit. Two short lengths of wire and two "spade" connectors is all that is required. The advantage to the new style flasher is you now have the option of using LED lighting for the turn/brake circuit. You would need to use a LED flasher unit if you intend to go the LED route.

was def going to solder and heat shrink. i'll look into cleaning when i pull it out, the new ones are less than $60 so i may just go that route as well. i see you are in tucson as well! i have not seen many 108's here in town

Originally Posted by ScooterABC

I was not very successful when I tried to disassemble and clean. I spent more time on it than it was worth to me, but yes, you can do this. The tricky part is sliding the assembly back into the little aluminum casing while keeping everything aligned. My attempts were not successful.

I suppose you could wire in a modern flasher, my objection to this is that I think you would loose the feature of the flashing red dot on the flasher knob when you activate it. In my opinion, that would be a total show stopper!

I've been very unhappy with the LED choices available with the exception of some newer ones that I have as license lights on a modern VW. But I thought now that lots of them were designed with resistance such that modern car bulb-burnt-out detection would be fooled into thinking it a "normal" bulb. Mountains of led-bulb discussions on the InterWeb....

i'm partial to leaving the car original as possible just cleaned up so i won't go the route of upgrading the knob

[Mike D]

European Auto Service (Keith Brooks on north First Ave.) and Motorwerks (The Bartman on north Stone) are two good local shops. Like all shops they prefer not to work on the older models but they are good sources for advice and tips.

[craftysince86]

i actually bought this 108 from the owner at stuttgart ********, i'll have to check those others out. i think i stopped by the shop on stone they were selling a gold 108 but were asking like 13k

[Mike D]

If you get the chance, swing by Keith's place in the next couple of weeks. He has a true barn find. Some guy located a '63 300SL which he wants Keith to get running. It's pretty "ratted" out from sitting for 20+ years but NO rust. The top, interior, rubber bits, etc. are dust but it's still an amazing find.

The owner isn't planning on restoring it. He's going to put it on the block as is so it will probably show up at this year's Barret-Jackson's event.

[craftysince86]

Originally Posted by Mike D

If you get the chance, swing by Keith's place in the next couple of weeks. He has a true barn find. Some guy located a '63 300SL which he wants Keith to get running. It's pretty "ratted" out from sitting for 20+ years but NO rust. The top, interior, rubber bits, etc. are dust but it's still an amazing find.

The owner isn't planning on restoring it. He's going to put it on the block as is so it will probably show up at this year's Barret-Jackson's event.

is it a silver one?