1976' /8 240D -> M117E55 swap with questions

[2.5-10]

FWIW, we're trying to educate you on why you are wrong. First off, Mercedes never used such a designation. Second, there is no such thing as a 5.5 liter M117 engine. There are 4.5, 5.0 and 5.6 liter M117 engines (as far as MB is concerned, give or take a few CCs), but no 5.5 liter ones. So saying "M117e55" makes no sense in more ways than one It makes it sound like you're swapping in a later E55 engine and are misusing the M117 designation. If you refuse to listen to why you are incorrect on this, the forum will be a little reluctant to help (< seems childish) on other advice, because this is one of the more simple things in this thread.

couldn't care less what you call the engine, I use the designations that started with the M112/113 even on the older mills because they're easy to type and even easier to understand.

You will need to remove the EGR plug you put in or tap the manifold for a reliable vac source for an idle air valve. You would not want to use the brake booster source or anything too close to the brake booster because this may weaken the braking system's power source AND muck up the supply to the engine under some conditions (like stop and go traffic or crawling congestion).

week-end only car, the vacuum built up from that one line should provide more than enough juice for a panic stop I would think. its still something along the lines of 5/16" I.D.

As far as the trans cooler, I assume you will want it functioning when the time comes to use it. As such, here are some options for you (and this is assuming your trans cooler is built into the radiator):
1) You can take the radiator with you to a local hydraulic and/or transmission shop (the best bet may be a CAT service place or similar). They will have the proper fittings and be able to custom make any hose for you.

the 115 radiator has a cooler in it, which is stange because it was always a manual trans car, however it has been sitting open to the elements for almost 35 years.. perhaps an ultrasonic hot tank bath and flush would be adequate for re use? I'm hoping to find -AN adapters at my local hydraulic line shop. worse case I'm sure they can make me some soft lines without too much trouble. I just want fluid in it so I can start it up at this point.

2) You can use a stand-alone transmission cooler. This may be the easier option. Have the local hydraulic shop make the hoses you need with the original fittings to connect to the transmission end with whatever fittings the new cooler uses on the other end.

certainly have considered this one as well just due to the dirtiness of the 115's cooler.

[Tomguy]

I did not consider you were re-using the original 240D radiator. I would doubt it has the cooling capacity for the V8 you are putting in! It may have the ability to let you "Test bench" stuff and drive around the block but for final cooling purposes, you'd want something a bit bigger.

[Frank Reiner]

Originally Posted by 2.5-10

the 115 radiator has a cooler in it, which is stange because it was always a manual trans car, however it has been sitting open to the elements for almost 35 years.. perhaps an ultrasonic hot tank bath and flush would be adequate for re use? I'm hoping to find -AN adapters at my local hydraulic line shop. worse case I'm sure they can make me some soft lines without too much trouble. I just want fluid in it so I can start it up at this point

Not "stange" (strange) at all; if the car was actually a manual trans car originally, the cooler (on the side of the radiator) is the engine oil cooler, not a trans cooler!!

[2.5-10]

Originally Posted by Tomguy

I did not consider you were re-using the original 240D radiator. I would doubt it has the cooling capacity for the V8 you are putting in! It may have the ability to let you "Test bench" stuff and drive around the block but for final cooling purposes, you'd want something a bit bigger.

its a pretty thick unit, I don't forsee running into cooling issues with the larger engine. certainly possible I suppose but uncharted waters for now!

Originally Posted by Frank Reiner

Not "stange" (strange) at all; if the car was actually a manual trans car originally, the cooler (on the side of the radiator) is the engine oil cooler, not a trans cooler!!

an oil cooler nonetheless though, so if I clean it out I would imagine adding a pair of fittings it would make a dandy oil cooler for the trans.. right?

the OM616 never had any provision for an oil cooler and I am nearly positive the M117 doesn't either, cast solid block of aluminum for an oil filter housing.

[Frank Reiner]

Originally Posted by 2.5-10

hello all,been a long time since I've been on here, but I have started up my /8 V8 swap again after a three-year hiatus and have run into a couple of snags and now have questions about both the M117 and its accessories as well as the /8 body and its interaction with the engine and 722.4 trans.

I am a bit curious, as others will be also, as to the source of a 722.4 that bolts to the M117.

[2.5-10]

Originally Posted by Frank Reiner

I am a bit curious, as others will be also, as to the source of a 722.4 that bolts to the M117.

corrected myself in the thread, see replies to OP.

[dirtyharry]

aren't the radiator hoses different sizes? I know for a fact the 117.984(4.5L) has larger hoses (1.6in or so) then any of the smaller engines , of similar vintage. I would imagine the 5.6l has the same size outlets which will totally cause turbulence and be less effective at cooling. the core should be sized just fine.

you can just buy rubber oil cooler line stock in a similar size to the trans lines and cut and attach the hoses to the steel lines and run them wherever you want, to whatever external cooler. the radiator mounted trans cooler isn't super effective anyway, but its not like your generating really any more torque/heat then stock so i suppose it would suffice.

and actually the 616 did have an oil cooler on earlier models, and they removed the m117 oil cooler around 1975 or so.

[2.5-10]

hmm, I have not yet measured the hose or radiator diameter.. they eyeball the same however.

as far as auto trans lines -- don't they operate well in excess of 100psi? I was figuring I'd have to run some fairly serious steel braided lines and nifty high-end fittings.

[cth350]

transmission oil cooler lines are indeed high pressure hydraulic hoses. You should be able to get a pair on ebay for like 10$-15$ each. One traditionally has two straight fittings and the other has a right-angle fitting.

-CTH

[2.5-10]

hmm. stainless -8AN braided hose and hose ends sufficient or should I get my hydraulic shop to make some hard lines?

100psi isnt a big deal, but 400psi or so would be a bit harder probably.

[2.5-10]

I haven't kept up on this thread terribly well, but I have the whole fuel system in. 15 gallon aluminum fuel cell with the factory benz sender in it. 560 SEL pressure pump and VW fuel filter under the car in a 190E 2.6 bracket. fuel lines, 3 bar fuel pressure regulator. 19# EV3 injectors. home made fuel rails, -10 AN crossover on that. MS2 ECU. BMW TPS, BMW IAT, BMW CLT, Volvo BOSCH coil amp, standard dizzy ignition. eBay trigger wheel and bracket for the M117.


I have been able to get the car cranking perfectly well, and got a partial sync. RPM spikes to 320, then zero back and forth while cranking. getting intermittent spark and the engine coughs while cranking, so its close if we had sync.

bought a DIYautotune HALL crank sensor to replace the ford transit VR sensor the trigger wheel seller recomended.. however I have no idea how to wire it. VR ground, and VR or EDIS SAW. three wire sensor. I've been told connect the red wire to +5v and connect the signal wire to the VR or EDIS SAW port.

this video is with the VR and partial sync.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LW_DVcHvfiw

[2.5-10]

it runs!

swapped out our non genuine MS2V3 for a Microsquirt V3 from DIYautotune. swapped back to the VR sensor and it fired immediately right up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBr7GTWdDcg

engine management: Microsquirt V3
ignition: single coil, SAAB Bosch coil amp, stock 560SL coil, stock dizzy
fuel: stock fuel pump, relay added and tied to MSv3
tps: 1993 325i BMW
CLT: 1993 325i BMW
IAT: 1993 325i BMW
fuel injectors: EV1 design 3 19#
fuel pressure: 3 bar
crank sensor: ford transit
crank sensor bracket: custom, ebay Bulgaria
trigger wheel: 36-1 ebay bulgaria
fuel rails: custom aluminum 18" ebay rails, drilled, tapped and -10 AN fittings.
MAP: DIYautotune 2.5bar
throttle body: stock 560SL TB with a 1993 325i BMW throttle body shaft to turn the TPS correctly

[unavita]

Originally Posted by 2.5-10

it runs!

swapped out our non genuine MS2V3 for a Microsquirt V3 from DIYautotune. swapped back to the VR sensor and it fired immediately right up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBr7GTWdDcg

engine management: Microsquirt V3
ignition: single coil, SAAB Bosch coil amp, stock 560SL coil, stock dizzy
fuel: stock fuel pump, relay added and tied to MSv3
tps: 1993 325i BMW
CLT: 1993 325i BMW
IAT: 1993 325i BMW
fuel injectors: EV1 design 3 19#
fuel pressure: 3 bar
crank sensor: ford transit
crank sensor bracket: custom, ebay Bulgaria
trigger wheel: 36-1 ebay bulgaria
fuel rails: custom aluminum 18" ebay rails, drilled, tapped and -10 AN fittings.
MAP: DIYautotune 2.5bar
throttle body: stock 560SL TB with a 1993 325i BMW throttle body shaft to turn the TPS correctly

I love this. A hotrod! So many people say "can't" and there are those that DO.