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Axle won't go in
Hi everyone,
I have a 72 250 W114 M130. I am replacing the axles. when Removing them I used a pry bar and pushed between the axle and the hub to get the old ones out. I'm having a hard time getting the new ones in as I don't have a good place to pry from. Also when I was prying the old ones I damaged them a little, and I'm concerend I would be breaking the new ones. ANy advice on putting in the axles? Thanks! G
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72 250 M130 W114 |
#2
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Make sure you have the correct length axles (!)
Clean the splined parts on the wheel hub assembly Put a small amount of axle grease on the splined part If you haven't already got the axles clipped into the differential do a trial fit with those splined ends to make sure they go in. After fitting the axles in the differential, raise / lower the car so you get a decent amount of space between the differential and the hub Next time you remove the axles from a hub use either a copper drift and hammer or a 3 legged puller to push the axle out - prying can damage stuff (as you found out).
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Thanks stretch
Actually I did use a 3 leg puller but even with that the axle was still a little long to get it out. Hence the pry bar Now I do have the differential side clipped and even with the diff all the way up I still can't clear the hub. Any ideas would be great full
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72 250 M130 W114 |
#4
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Now you've raised the differential as far as it will go you should lift the whole car so the wheel drops as low as it will go.
Watch out that you don't knacker the subframe bushings and the differential mount when doing this... ...it is all very well fixing one thing at the expense of something else. (Tip for three legged puller problem - use a spacer such as a deep socket and a washer to protect socket between end of axle and puller screw)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 03-16-2014 at 03:08 PM. Reason: missed out a word |
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Thanks Stretch. I'll be sure to try this.
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72 250 M130 W114 |
#6
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Ok, I mist be missing something.
The diff is all the way up and the wheels are off the ground. I can even stand on the hub and it will not go any lower. What am I missing?
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72 250 M130 W114 |
#7
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You're not hanging on the flexible hose for the brake calliper are you?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#8
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Make sure
your transmission is in neutral.
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#9
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Stretch, the caliper is removed and hanging off a wire.
Raccoon, Yes it is in neutral. I can rotate the axles/diff.
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72 250 M130 W114 |
#10
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Can you confirm that the axle ends will fit into the splines in the differential and the wheel hub - by this I mean one end slots in, you then take that end out and slot the other end in...
...so it is or isn't a spline shaft fitting in the hole problem... ...can you measure the length of the axle you are trying to fit when it is compressed and when it is extended? Do you still have the old axles so you can compare new:old axle lengths?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 04-04-2014 at 01:42 AM. Reason: stupid smilies |
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I can confirm right now that the splines are correct for the differential side. I have that in. I'll check the other side ASAP.
I did check the length collapsed and it's the same length as the old size. As I mentioned before, I did have a bear of a time getting the old ones out and had to use a pry bar. The old ones where about 1/4" in deep with the differential all the way up on either side. I'm wondering if the W114 needs to lower the control arm or something.
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72 250 M130 W114 |
#12
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If you look through EverythingBenz - Mercedes-Benz Forum and Web Search Using Google and find your car you can see EPC parts diagrams showing the set up. It is exactly the same as my W123. Same / similar parts.
I have a sneaky feeling that you're fitting the the longer W126 axles. If my source of information (google) is correct the W126 ones are 26 1/16" and the W123 ones are 24 13/16" => problem is I don't know where to start the measurement from - and I don't know if that's for compressed or extended axles. May be these numbers make sense to you? Unfortunately my W123 axles are in bits at the moment so I can't make a measurement for you... ...I can however measure on the axle shaft between two bumps positioned just in front of the rubber boots. Would that measurement help? ############## One more thing you might want to try is to disconnect the anti-roll bar and the shocks and really let the trailing arms drop. However if you have the longer incorrect axles then you'll end up with with some strange goings on - weird knocking perhaps? Strange ride height? Knackered wheel bearings? I dunno - how long have you had this car? {Don't worry about the rear springs too too much they are not as dangerous as the front - but you need to keep an eye on them}
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#13
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Nope. not at W126 axle. I can safely say that on cost alone. also the measurement is end to end Here is the axle I purchased
I'll try disconnecting the roll bar and shocks and see if that helps. I've had the vehicle for several years, but has not run since 09. Been a little busy Thank you once again. G
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72 250 M130 W114 |
#14
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Hmmm, that is an annular axle, when your car came with homokinetic axles. See here for definitions:
Homo and annular axles Perhaps that is the problem. Can someone else weigh in on this? I wonder if the annular axles are different and not the right length. Also, being annular, doesn't that mean they come apart in the middle? If they technically do fit, perhaps they come apart in a way that would help you install them. Read post 7 in the thread that I linked.
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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission. My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear). |
#15
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Quote:
(See this thread for more pictures The W201 differential refresh thread) In this picture the "flanges" are different but you could in principle undo the bolts on the left hand side of the axle in this picture and leave the stub behind in the differential. This means you wouldn't have to take off the cover at the back of the differential and remove the circlip that holds the end of the axle in the side cog. Note if you are fitting these annular axles there should be a spacer that fits between the axial bearing race and the axle. The circlip also needs to be a really really snug fit. If you can wiggle the end of the axle flange or the axle itself and see movement of the side cog then that is most certainly not tight enough. Movement in these side cogs knackers the differential. Circlips are available in many different thicknesses at ye olde dealer
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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