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#1
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Brake pad spreader tool...what do you use?
Hey everyone,
Just changed front wheel bearings, and pulled on the brake hose a little too much and sprung a leak. So, ordered front brake hose and installed it. Then I figured, break pads getting a little low, so went to install new ones and either the brake pads are too fat (ie wrong ones), or I need to figure out how to spread the calipers to install new pads. ASIDE: when I did my back brakes (like 1 year ago), I remember having to bang them in with a hammer- tight fit, but worked. But these front ones...wow...do i need the spreader tool? I saw one on pelican parts for 200 bucks. I wonder what everyone else is using (is there a bootleg way to open them)? Thanks in advance
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Current: 1971 Mercedes Benz 250 (Euro Spec) 1972 Mercedes Benz 250 (US Spec) Past: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 |
#2
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With the brake pads out use a big pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze The pistons back into the caliper.
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Current fleet 2006 E320 CDI 1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped former members 1984 300D "Blues Mobile" 1978 300CD "El Toro" |
#3
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I used a C clamp. I always do with calipers (I don't have any vehicles that require a special tool to turn the piston back in). Since there's a piston on each side of the caliper, use an old brake pad to assist with clamping down one side at a time. Ensure you don't open the other side while doing it by using a 2nd clamp to keep it in.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#4
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Have both (pliers/c-clamp)
Thanks.
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Current: 1971 Mercedes Benz 250 (Euro Spec) 1972 Mercedes Benz 250 (US Spec) Past: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 |
#5
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in extreem cases I have used wooden wedges, but c clamps are my favorite choice. That said extreeme pressure to push calipers in is never a good sign. You may have air in the line or a stuck caliper. Since you will have to bleed them you can unhook the line and they should move easy , if not then new calipers are in order good luck
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Ron 2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth 2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING ! 99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD 62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD 72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD 16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR 19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels 14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green 84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD 71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD 73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace 81 380 SL - Rest in Peace |
#6
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C clamp
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#7
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Y'all Know how I hate to throw the "Bone Of Contention"
out into a Discussion...
BUT ! NEVER,EVER,EVER Hammer Brake Pistons ! Questions ? 1.See the second sentence in reply #5 Above. 2.Get a piston even slightly cocked in the bore and Hammer on it, and it's done! (As in Pucked Up!)
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#8
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Britton McIntyre 68 280 SE coupe 'Hairball' 70 280 SL 71 280 SEL - RIP May 2010 |
#9
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Taken care of it this morning: channel lock pliers (made quick work of it).
Thanks again everyone!
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Current: 1971 Mercedes Benz 250 (Euro Spec) 1972 Mercedes Benz 250 (US Spec) Past: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 |
#10
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If anyone is searching for the 'top tool', which I have also used to push the pistons back, it is called a 'brake spoon'. You don't see them too much anymore since they were designed to adjust the internal adjustment after installing a new set of brake shoes on drum brakes. But due to the slight angle they really work well for getting a grip on the little bit of disc brake that sticks out around the pad and allowing you to use leverage to get the piston started back in.
Last edited by Idle; 07-05-2014 at 09:39 PM. |
#11
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And a word on brake pads that are 'too fat'....
When disc brakes were just becoming the normal thing (such as in the early 70's) there was a lot of variance in the making of the calipers and the pads. So pad makers stated making them to fit the thickest application. So if the pads you bought fit the caliper but were too fat to insert even with the piston pushed all the way flat? You just sanded them down until they slid in. Primitive? Well, yes, but that was the recommended way to deal with it by the pad makers. |
#12
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I use a big screwdriver.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#13
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I do that, too. Start with a smaller screwdriver to wedge in there and make a gap and then insert a bigger screwdriver and push the piston back in.
I also just crack the bleed valve and catch the brake fluid in a wad of paper towels. Not that much comes out and then I just toss the towels in the trash. This really speeds things up. |
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