108 Radiator Needed
 

Does anyone have a 108 rad they are interested in selling? need it as soon as possible, Arizona local is a plus particularly in Tucson.

Or.. if anyone knows anyone either online or local parting out 108's

much appreciated

I believe the V8 radiators are different from the 6 cylinder ones, with the oil cooler on the left on the V8s as you look in (right from driver's perspective) and it reversed on the 6 cyls.

User DieselPaul was parting a couple of 108's as of a week or two ago.

Tri Star Parts is in AZ and is worth a call.

found one thanks fellas! and you're right tomguy, i did ended up finding a 4.5 one, good info too jmela i need a couple extra parts.

do you guys think it's worth re-coring my current rad for $460, said there are more fins per inch so it would be more efficient, or would i be better off buying this used one for $150 and getting it cleaned/sealed for another $150 ($300 total)?

If it was me I'd get a it recored - the used one is 40+ years old and there is only so much a cleaning can do. It may work or it may not.
My own car will run hot on the highway as the temps near 100F. I can drive it all day in traffic, but get it over 70 mph for more than 20 minutes and the temp starts to slowly climb.

Might be insufficient flow from the water pump rather than a radiator problem.

How would a water pump not pump enough water? The only way I could see is if the impeller has rusted away. The pump is ~1.5 years old, so it's unlikely that the impeller would be corroded.

There are several products on the market that allow water to flow easier though the system and therefore reduce the temp. I don't remember the brand names but I am sure Pelican sells this stuff.

It is about $7 a bottle and is well worth it. It will allow your engine to run cooler.

Curiously both cars were missing their radiators when I got them, someone probably got $15 for the brass, destroying $400 in radiators.

To the OP, I have a 280S and a 280SE 4.5 for parts, pm me if you need anything.

JMela, never heard back from you, I sent you pics of the passenger rear door to your email.

> There are several products on the market that allow water to flow easier though the system

One of those is Water Wetter, which reduces the surface tension of water, sold in auto parts stores. I have a bottle, but have not put it in yet.

Thanks for the info fellas. I did end up getting the radiator re-cored

I did new OE t stat and a Lasco water pump, which I heard from another member it was the best next to a true OE water pump. Car was driven around today, with AC on, outside high today was only 78° and the temp was steady at just above half way point between the 175° and 212° mark.

Now I have heard several temps as far as what the "true" operating temp is. I remember one thread someone said that the actual operating temp was 212° and that what's the Marcus (owner of Stuttgart Autohau$ in AZ) told me as well, but every time I google it all I see is 175°

I'm thinking about changing the clutch fan as well now, but idk if I am just trying to make it run cooler than it is supposed to.

I was thinking about using water wet but was scared of damaging anything. You think I would be ok to dump that in the rad? Just want to protect this new investments I have into the cooling system

Thanks Paul! I'm actually after some SEL specific parts but I'll keep you in mind if anything else comes up.

Actually... Would you happen to have a good front passenger window regulator?

Modern cars run right around 212, but these old ones ran for power and not efficiency or complete combustion. 175 is correct. My 4.5 ran 175-212 until I replaced the radiator and did a thorough flush, after which it never topped 185ish (a hair above the 175 line) on the 90-95 degree days I drove it on in moderate traffic. I am sure if I drove it in the desert or something in traffic, it would have gotten closer to the 212 mark, but I doubt it would have gotten much higher.

If you are confident that the cooling system is in proper order, with what is essentially a new radiator, your fan clutch may not be engaging properly, your oil cooler may need a good cleaning, or something else may be amiss (such as timing too retarded). One thing I did was wire a small switch to be able to turn the aux fan on in traffic because I needed a new fan clutch but couldn't justify the then $100+ on one when the aux fan did the job for me.

All that being said, my A/C never worked when I had it as my DD, so the temps 10-20 degrees higher may just be a result of that too :)

Manual or power? Both of my cars are power. I can put a battery in the cars and see if they work, I would imagine they are fine.

See again I hear the opposite, that these cast blocks like the heat more vs the newer cars. My w211 def does not run at 212 I think it's at 175°-185° My 108 def runs much smoother when the temp is higher. I'll see if I can find that thread where they said the operating temp was 212°

So I went to the shop the 108 now will sit here at idle

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps0tpob5w7.jpg

With no AC on it idles for about 20 minutes+ never moving from here. My friend said he had it sitting for about 30 minutes and it never passed this temp either.

I kicked on the AC after it had been idling for 20 minutes and the temp came up a little. The needle was at about just above the numbers, let it idle with AC for about 10 minutes and it stayed there never moving up anymore.

Yes power! You wouldn't happen to have a black horn pad would you?