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#1
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Door lock mechanism W115
Working on my 1970 220D
Typical drivers door. Was hard to open and wouldn't lock. Cleaned and greased with spray white lithium, wonderful results. However, having trouble locking it with the key. When I turn down with the key the actuator for opening in the lock itself is getting pressed it slightly. Here's a video of what I think is happening. Here's what should be happening Question is if that play is supposed to be there, but held back by the spring? Or if the large tab is supposed to rest on the lever for the opening mechanism. Notice my gap. I'm leaning towards this spring being worn, and want to push it out and stretch it a little for more resistance. The tab is showing hardly any visible wear marks. The only other suspicious thing is the mechanism that prevents the door being locked when it's open. The arm that moves with the latching mechanism is slightly bent. Door open Door closed |
#2
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Or is this the problem? Wear down in the peg and slot where the outside opening mechanism slides over? I'm seeing significant wear and a little bur.
Photo is shot upside down from bottom. Considering its riveted, any tricks to fixing it? Buy a new door latch mechanism? Seems like if I attempt to remove anything it will explode like a Swiss clock. |
#3
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Ok that was it. Lol. Is the a repair guy for this type of thing? Or is that round peg available? It appears to be of a softer metal and intended to wear. I've practiced enough gun smithing to take this thing apart, unsure about the rivet type pieces holding it together. It seems silly to buy another used piece, unless someone has a 114/115 with low miles for parts...
For the moment, I'm thinking some electrical tape around this arm I have to go to my dads Friday, and I want to be able to lock this thing, he's in a rough town. I can reach through from the back, but I'm a little OCD. |
#4
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Door lock mechanism W115
Ok well obviously a new one is easier, but here's what I came up with. The little tab that prevents the door from locking while open is only a safety feature. I tested this manually, here's the process.
I held the mechanism that prevents it from locking out of the way and locked the latch. I closed the "door" by spinning the latch two clicks. I unlocked it and opened the "door." So I'm gonna cut that mechanism out, enabling me to push to lock down from the inside with the door open. Granted it will be easier to lock my keys in the car, but I'll make sure to put a hind a key on today. It helps to talk out loud sometimes. |
#5
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oh my, did'nt even give us a chance to answer
AND this may be the most detailed post on W115 locks on the web - thumbs up!
__________________
Ron 2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth 2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING ! 99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD 62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD 72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD 16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR 19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels 14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green 84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD 71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD 73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace 81 380 SL - Rest in Peace |
#6
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Door lock mechanism W115
Yeah talking (writing) out loud helped me think I guess. Lol.
I did a more detailed write up in my long term build thread. 1970 220D in for the long haul Here's where the experience came from. If you like this sort of thing, you should get into gunsmithing. I've had this ruger 10/22 my whole life. One day the trigger got sticky, and I realized I had never really taken care of it. I went with the goal of fine tuning the parts and not buying anything. I got a little carried away. Hand ground trigger mechanism for 2lb pull. Overstop travel screw adjustment. Safety delete for less drag. Partially floated barrel with bedding in the action and end of the barrel. And the bolt release set for a hair touch (or bump). Caution, this gun is dangerous as all hell, but hits 0.5" groupings at 100 yards with open sites. If you do trigger work, you need to drop the gun (unloaded) from a high distance and make sure it doesn't go off. I keep the clip out until I'm ready to fire even though I trust it. And I never let anyone use it. Needs more work on the pre-travel of the trigger. Due for a tear down and cleaning soon and plan on doing it then. These principles could be applied to the door latch. That peg needs to be hardened to not wear. But I wonder if mercedes thought they would offer a replacement when they first built it. I'm hoping a buddy will step up his 3D printing game and get one that will print metal. Then we could make a new one, and harden it. Last edited by Lucas; 11-27-2014 at 01:16 PM. |
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