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  #1  
Old 02-03-2015, 10:27 AM
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Storage advice, please

Reality says Gustav (our '72 280SE 4.5) isn't going to be getting new window seals any time soon. Lack of a garage means he lives outside.... and some of the outside finds its way inside (primarily around the rear windscreen).

I'd like to do what I can to minimize the progression; looking for advice regarding the best way to keep him covered without trapping moisture that will contribute to rust on the outside/underside.

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  #2  
Old 02-03-2015, 11:09 AM
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There are a number of excellent car covers on the market, Empire, Covercraft etc., that do a great job. The covers that have multiple "cinching" areas are the best. Depending upon your zoning restrictions, used overseas containers are a fantastic instant garage. 20X8 delivered for $1K. I do realize that with that price you could get your seals done.
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  #3  
Old 02-03-2015, 12:10 PM
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A car cover keeps the top dry but does nothing for the undercarriage. I had my 108 covered and it rusted from the bottom while covered due to rain, snow, etc. If you can't get a covered garage, look into something like a car tent (like a portable paint booth). You can put plastic down on the bottom, and even if you don't, at least the sides are enclosed to prevent the rain and snow from going in on the underside.
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  #4  
Old 02-03-2015, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomguy View Post
A car cover keeps the top dry but does nothing for the undercarriage. I had my 108 covered and it rusted from the bottom while covered due to rain, snow, etc. If you can't get a covered garage, look into something like a car tent (like a portable paint booth). You can put plastic down on the bottom, and even if you don't, at least the sides are enclosed to prevent the rain and snow from going in on the underside.
Well.. Empire covers you basically drive onto them, put the top part on and zip up. Like a baggie for your car.
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15 VW Passat TDI
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97 S500
97 E300D
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  #5  
Old 02-03-2015, 01:43 PM
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Well, then as long as it's reasonably priced, that's the route I'd go. How's their UV warranty? Every car cover I had lasted a year tops thanks to the sun.
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  #6  
Old 02-03-2015, 02:04 PM
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You can buy a car port for as little as $500.
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  #7  
Old 02-03-2015, 03:17 PM
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Maybe a neighbor or friend has an empty garage space for rent?
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2015, 03:52 PM
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I have an empire cover and it is great and MBCA has a very good discount . My local costco has the car tent for 228.00 as well . And it's costco quality which is good .
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  #9  
Old 02-24-2015, 12:54 PM
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You ideally want something that covers the car on all sides with no touching (trapped moisture) which is why most car cover makers all state not to use in all weather or at all times.

The car tents that use a metal frame are great and among cheapest options, if you have space, won't work on the street of course.

I've also seen a bag that you drive onto then pull remaining up and over the car and seal, kinda like a ziplock baggie for cars. These tend to cost as much as the tents but are more weatherproof as all sides are sealed and you place a small container of dessicant (moisture removing material) inside to keep things dry. These will scratch your car if not used carefully as you are basically dragging the upper piece over your car's top side to seal it up.

Shipping containers aren't ideal due to width making it hard to get in and out of the car and also most aren't vented so gas and other fumes accumulate which can cause it's own issues. You can install a vent but then have less control over humidity inside, which can lead to rust.
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  #10  
Old 02-24-2015, 01:20 PM
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I simply put black silicone on the external part of the seal. This chassis is doomed anyways, but it keeps my trunk dry. Doesn't look bad if you are careful.
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  #11  
Old 02-24-2015, 03:09 PM
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I know a guy who has covered his garage floor in outdoor carpet to act as a vapor barrier. He claims that water can creep up through the floor and rust your car from below.

I thought this was nuts until I saw a car that had been storage for 28 years. It had a slight tinge of rust all around the bottom and on the edges of the wheel wells.

So I don't know if you are planning on storing the car for the next fifty years, but if you can pick up some indoor-outdoor carpet cheap it might be worth considering.
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  #12  
Old 02-25-2015, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idle View Post
I know a guy who has covered his garage floor in outdoor carpet to act as a vapor barrier. He claims that water can creep up through the floor and rust your car from below.

I thought this was nuts until I saw a car that had been storage for 28 years. It had a slight tinge of rust all around the bottom and on the edges of the wheel wells.

So I don't know if you are planning on storing the car for the next fifty years, but if you can pick up some indoor-outdoor carpet cheap it might be worth considering.
I believe rust can form in an environment that is 50% humidity, so the key is always to keep below that, that's what all these products and procedures attempt to do. You can control that with ventilation that can be opened and closed, or dehumidifiers, or dessicants, or whatever your chosen method. The average new home, using all new building materials, has some 300-gallons of water that will evaporate into the house in the first year, same with garages, etc., so you really do need to consider every source of moisture when preserving your car. This is why many people also choose things like Sonus Motor Kote to spray on under hood areas, the Aussies like to use Lanolin-based products as a vapor barrier under body panels and chassis, the Brits like Wax-oyl, and many Americans used to simply apply a coating of motor oil to their chassis and allow dust to stick creating a barrier.

Whatever you can do to reduce moisture is the best approach, however achieved.
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../SideSmall.jpg

The Coupe Group (W111/112 coupes and cabs) official website
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  #13  
Old 02-27-2015, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marrs View Post
I believe rust can form in an environment that is 50% humidity, so the key is always to keep below that, that's what all these products and procedures attempt to do. You can control that with ventilation that can be opened and closed, or dehumidifiers, or dessicants, or whatever your chosen method. The average new home, using all new building materials, has some 300-gallons of water that will evaporate into the house in the first year, same with garages, etc., so you really do need to consider every source of moisture when preserving your car. This is why many people also choose things like Sonus Motor Kote to spray on under hood areas, the Aussies like to use Lanolin-based products as a vapor barrier under body panels and chassis, the Brits like Wax-oyl, and many Americans used to simply apply a coating of motor oil to their chassis and allow dust to stick creating a barrier.

Whatever you can do to reduce moisture is the best approach, however achieved.
Now that is handy to know. Thanks.
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  #14  
Old 03-01-2015, 12:29 PM
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One more tip, if you're getting a damp or musty smelling trunk or interior you can buy a large tub of product called "Damp Rid" that will absorb moisture, just open lid and set inside the car. Don't spread it around, leave in the container, as sodium based products can rust your car by direct contact. Cat litter works the same way. You can buy Damp Rid at Home Depot, Walmart, etc.

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1962 220SE W111 Coupe, 2nd owner

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../SideSmall.jpg

The Coupe Group (W111/112 coupes and cabs) official website
The Coupe Group on Facebook
MotoArigato: Roadworthy News & Humor
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