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#46
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It may not break, but to me that weld resembles chicken droppings. I guess who ever did the disc conversion in the beginning found the car undriveable, as many have done over the years, and discovered that shortening the steering arm was the only way out . If it were me ,I would shorten the arm but get a blacksmith/forge operator to make a new end on the arm and drill and taper bore it.
There millions of W111-W109 spindles out there to pracitce on.... |
#47
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I see minimal weld spatter that wasn't properly cleaned up but close inspection shows a pretty good weld there , long and even along the sides , not a DIY'ers work atall .
I too would rather have a properly machined part but the lack of availability of pivot balls has made this sort of repair work necessary on my older vehicles . Done properly with good weld penetration , it'll be fine . I am enjoying these detailed photos ~ as a Mechanic I can never get enough .
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#48
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Well , I can't actually see enough to tell it has good penetration and from the perspective of someone who has been welding since the early 70's as part of my job, I can safely say that the pics don't show what technique was used,what type of weld prep If any, was done ,whether a correct root weld followed by a minimum of two fillet passes were made and if the arm was then subjected to Xray or non destructive crack testing. Here in OZ those are the very bare minimum requirements for welding any part of a steering component . We are also dealing with a forged steel part so there is the question of what type of filler rod was used in the weld and if the weld was then subjected to a normalising to relieve stress.
Theres a lot more to this welding thing than just firing up the Tig and and making a pretty weld ....and to me those are not pretty welds. |
#49
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Hey there, I'm starting work on a barnfind 190SL. Could you provide me the purchase link for those headlight grills? They look awesome.
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#50
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We found the NOS grilles on eBay.
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#51
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Shift Lever & Rod Bushing DIY
Moving our attention to both the shift lever and rod on our 190SL. The shift action wasn't that bad or so we thought at the time not having driven another example. But we were curious as to the condition of the current bushings so we decided to open it up, take a look and swap out the bushings anyway as it's an easy and inexpensive basic maintenance project.
We tackled the shift lever first as it features two bushings encapsulating the pivot ball and two bushings just below that for the lever - rod junction. |
#52
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Once we had removed the cover, we removed the pivot ball sandwich plates to reveal the ball and used bushings. We replaced those with OE-spec bushings from our catalog, removed a bit of roughness from the pivot ball and replaced the lower bushings at the rod junction.
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#53
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#54
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Nice and clean new pivot ball bushings installed!
And view from the underside: |
#55
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We'll follow-up with the rod portion at the trans shortly!
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#56
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It makes a huge difference to the driing feel when they are done,but don't forget the other end .it has a pair of nylon bushes ,but an be a bugger to remove because there is a thin split pin in the castle nut. And if you have big hands like mine it's a difficult manoeuvre to fit the new ones.
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#57
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AUTO PORN !
My Sweet Lady often asks me what I'm so interested in on the Computer , it's always some detailed thing like this .
Did/will you use any Silicone typ of grease or lubricant on the plastic bushings ? . I usually do . Keep these great tech notes coming ! .
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#58
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Quote:
Then turned our attention to the most challenging area, the rod bushings at the transmission end. What it looked like before we attacked it: First attempt at removing the safety pin from the castle nut: Success! And out came the bolt, then old bushings: Interesting as it appears to be tapped for a zerk fitting. |
#59
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New bushings installed. Couple of shots:
Re-assembly: And the shift lever end. So not only are there bushings for the actual lever end but there are outer bushings for the rod fork as well which are sandwiched by washers, nut and bolt: |
#60
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In the end, we chose not to lube the new plastic bushings. They are significantly harder than those which we removed but we may change our minds and go back in to apply a small amount of lube suitable for a hard plastic.
Here's a group shot of the old bushings: The difference in shift quality is pretty significant. The new bushings provide more precise shifting without the subtle sloppiness we had before. The linkage simply responds to our selections now vs. the slight vagueness previously. Makes shifting a lot more fun! |
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