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-   -   Euro 230.6 stalling issue (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes-forum/370537-euro-230-6-stalling-issue.html)

OBRHAUS 07-28-2015 08:14 PM

Euro 230.6 stalling issue
 
Hello all, sneaking over from the Porsche tech forums haha. Last year I picked up a super clean 1973 230.6 Automatic that was imported from Germany in the 80's. I could get it to run but it sputtered and farted and I never made it very far. I've been busy with a few other cars but have finally had some time to get to work on this thing.

I started off by ordering weber carbs, new plugs, distributor cap, rotor, points, msd 6al and a hi vibration blaster. I removed the carbs and installed the new ones today with all the other stuff, the car fired right up but stalled after about 2 minutes. I started it again adjusted the carbs as per the Redline/Weber instructions and about 30 seconds after I finished she stalled again. I'm not new to carbs, and I don't think they are the issue.

Without giving the car any gas, just rolling it over with the key it fires right back up and idles perfect for about 2 minutes then falls down slowly and stalls or just stalls. I must have did this about 10 times, same result everytime, perfect idle, revs fine, then after about 2 minutes, just cuts out and dies, won't rev, plop.... :D Here's a video prior to pulling my hair out and a picture of her with some old RS shoes.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psaf90a1e2.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GO3zyqUjCM

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Andrew

Idle 07-29-2015 03:05 PM

There are usually three reasons for this and all of them are cheap.

The first thing to do is clean the fuel filters. There is one on the bottom of the tank that is easy to remove and clean out. Carefully drain the tank and remove it, clean it with a brush and reinstall with a new gasket. While you are in there try to run a swab through your steel fuel line to clean it out all the way up to the fuel pump. And replace the regular fuel filter, too.

Next, or maybe first, check the choke. You would need to do some research on how to do this with the carbs you have but if they are not adjusted correctly they can cause this problem.

As a last check you might replace your ignition coil. If it is bad it will quickly heat up and cease to function.

OBRHAUS 07-29-2015 03:18 PM

Hi thanks for the response, I should have mentioned, I drained the tank last fall and the screen was clean. I replaced the fuel filter up front with a new one as well. I also thought the coil might have been bad, I swapped it with another I had around, no improvement. I ordered a new fuel pump hoping that maybe something is going on down there? I've heard of gas drying and clogging lines before so maybe running something down the fuel lines to clean them out is the next step? Also, the chokes by this point are fully so I don't think it is that either?

Idle 07-29-2015 07:14 PM

Prop the chokes open with a screwdriver holding the butterflys open. Start it up and see if it runs and how long. If it continues to run but picks up rpm then it is a choke closing down too fast.

Then the only question would be which one.

You could also have the floats set wrong. If you are sucking all the gas out of the bowls faster than they car refill then the floats are set too low.

I can't remember if this car has an early version of electronic ignition or not. If it does then pull the connection plugs at the ignition box, which should be behind the left headlight on the inner fender, and clean them with some silver polish. They may be tarnished to the point of them causing resistance.


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