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  #1  
Old 08-02-2015, 02:04 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flyover State
Posts: 1,364
W115 Bodywork Questions

Hello,

This is less of a how to about bodywork as it is a what-to-do about bodywork, thus posting in here as opposed to the bodywork forum.

The two vehicles in question are my 300D and Fintail, and they have similar but different problems. I'll post about the 115 here and make another post for the fin. First, I might as well get out of the way that I'm not concerned with the perceived market value of the cars. I just want to fix these problems and keep them for another 40 years. Perhaps be entombed in one of them. . .

I don't have much thorough knowledge of all the aspects of bodywork. From initial research it seems the things that matter most are care in the prep process. Still trying to find and select my shop of choice, location is near St. Louis. It would also seem that what I'm after is someone who can apply oil-based enamel paint to maintain the OEM quality as much as possible.

Now to the problems:
First up is the 115. California nearly all it's life, always garaged, been in my family since '79, largely rust free. However it has 433,000 miles so there is some wear and tear. The most pressing issue at the moment is the appearance of rust at the lower bottom of the rear quarter panels; a common prob in these cars. One side was "repaired" and now it has come back (on both sides now). I know you can get some sheet metal from Germany for those bottom edges, up to including an entire rear fender. I think cutting out the rot at this point would be preferred. Question is this: the car has paint/body flaws here and there (see pics), would it be worth it to address all those flaws now and just do localized paint work or would it be necessary to strip and paint the whole thing to do it properly? Several parts of the car still have original paint in OK condition. Would like to keep it as original as I can and want to avoid a total paint job if possible due to cost. Reason being is the Fin may have deeper issues and may require more $$$.
Will it look crappy if done in sections or can the result be acceptable? (Subjective I know, just want the car to be in good condition and look nice overall)
Attached Thumbnails
W115 Bodywork Questions-img_20150802_125420_975.jpg   W115 Bodywork Questions-img_20150802_125428_790-1-.jpg   W115 Bodywork Questions-img_20150802_125428_790.jpg   W115 Bodywork Questions-img_20150802_125432_800.jpg   W115 Bodywork Questions-img_20150802_125458_129.jpg  

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6
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  #2  
Old 08-02-2015, 02:05 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flyover State
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more pics
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W115 Bodywork Questions-img_20150802_125505_508.jpg   W115 Bodywork Questions-img_20150802_125514_720.jpg   W115 Bodywork Questions-img_20150802_125519_543.jpg  
__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-03-2015, 09:43 PM
scotty b's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 46
localized repairs with a full repaint will yield the best results short of a full strip and restoration. The problem you are going to find with localized repairs with localized paint work is the color match. If you've got a really good resto shop around, they will get the best color match and will probably do a better blend in single stage, than a collision shop can
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  #4  
Old 09-27-2015, 04:32 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flyover State
Posts: 1,364
Trim removed and ready for the shop.
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__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6
Reply With Quote
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