Adjusting valves - stupid question - help

[ScooterABC]

I think this is a stupid question but I want someone to tell me I did it right (or wrong) so I'll know.

Over the weekend I adjusted the valves on an M189 engine. M189 has a big harmonic balancer on the front of the engine with 6 mm holes drilled into it so turning the engine by hand is very easy using a couple of metal rods.

I turned the engine so the cam on the first valve was pointing opposite the rocker arm. Then I adjusted that valve to its specification (I think .10 for intake, .25 for exhaust but I might have those switched). Then I turned the engine so the next valve that was almost pointing opposite its rocker was in position and adjusted that valve. etc. So I turned the engine 12 times to adjust 12 valves.

So in the attached picture, the next engine turn would be to adjust the 3rd cam into position, then the next turn would be to adjust the 1st cam into position, then the next turn would be to adjust the 6th cam into position, etc.

Did I do that right?

[Carpenterman]

Sounds right. If you look at your photo, you will see that there are four valves that can be adjusted at that camshaft position. The lobes do not have to be exactly opposite the follower. Just off the beginning/end of the lobe.

Saves bouncing up and down to wrench the motor at the crank, if you haven't taken the fan off.

[Frank Reiner]

Originally Posted by ScooterABC

I think this is a stupid question but I want someone to tell me I did it right (or wrong) so I'll know.

Over the weekend I adjusted the valves on an M189 engine. M189 has a big harmonic balancer on the front of the engine with 6 mm holes drilled into it so turning the engine by hand is very easy using a couple of metal rods.

I turned the engine so the cam on the first valve was pointing opposite the rocker arm. Then I adjusted that valve to its specification (I think .10 for intake, .25 for exhaust but I might have those switched). Then I turned the engine so the next valve that was almost pointing opposite its rocker was in position and adjusted that valve. etc. So I turned the engine 12 times to adjust 12 valves.

So in the attached picture, the next engine turn would be to adjust the 3rd cam into position, then the next turn would be to adjust the 1st cam into position, then the next turn would be to adjust the 6th cam into position, etc.

Did I do that right?

As pictured, yes those would be the next two valves.

Adjusting each valve with the lobe at 180 to the follower will ensure that the cam is on its base circle, although, as noted above, not entirely necessary.

[ScooterABC]

Thank you both. It sounds like I did fine, but positioning each lobe was over-kill. At least I didn't do something bad.

[meltedpanda]

and you did em when they were good and cold right

[ScooterABC]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

and you did em when they were good and cold right

Oh yes. The car isn't running again. I did them when installing the injector blocks and gaskets and injectors - you can see the gaskets in the picture. Hopefully that will solve some of my vacuum problems. I need to set the static timing and try and get the car to start again (which it almost did) but I think I have idle set too low after plugging up the MASSIVE vacuum leak to the brake booster. I think the idle was tuned expecting a leak.

[meltedpanda]

great keep us posted!

[JeffreyNMemphis]

Did you rebuild the brake booster or disconnect it? Is your brake booster located at the firewall or next to the radiator?

[ScooterABC]

Originally Posted by JeffreyNMemphis

Did you rebuild the brake booster or disconnect it? Is your brake booster located at the firewall or next to the radiator?

Firewall. And I capped off the line coming from the intake manifold with a 3" hose and a bolt. I have verified that the vacuum hose or the booster have huge leaks and I haven't checked to see if it's the hoses or the booster since those aren't relevant right now.

[Finnie]

Hi Scooter ABC et al. Reviving this old thread. I am soon to adjust the valves on my M189 ('64 300SE).

The question I have is there a specialty tool needed for this valve adjustment?

Thanks. R/Paul

[ScooterABC]

Originally Posted by Finnie

Hi Scooter ABC et al. Reviving this old thread. I am soon to adjust the valves on my M189 ('64 300SE). The question I have is there a specialty tool needed for this valve adjustment?

I don't remember but I think it's the same special wrenches used to adjust the valves on a M130 etc. Post a new thread asking this - no one is following this one and I sold the car years ago.

[meltedpanda]

you can make due with claw foot sockets but the bent "specialty" tool for MB valve adjustments makes life easier . Ive done it a variety of ways , even bending my own...

[cth350]

a decent assortment of flat go/nogo blades calibrated in metric is a must. You one that's a bit too thick and one a bit too thin along with the one you are shooting for (thought the too thick one is more important).

While a bent wrench will turn the nut, you really would rather have a crow's foot wrench that can be used with a torque wrench. If it's too easy to turn the adjuster, that's a problem and you would know that based on the amount of torque required to do it.

Lastly, turning an M189 is a royal pain. The first tool I had to custom make for that was a simple steel plate that fit into the groves of the nut and was then welded into a socket. I lucked out eventually and found the special socket that has 30-some odd groves to grip the outside of the nut. I doubt anybody has one of those handy these days.

If you are into fabricating tools, you can get a nut just large enough to go around that special bolt and then cut four groves in it to match up with the slots. Weld in key steel to grip the groves and then you use a big socket on that thing as it grips the groves.

-CTH