220Sb Master Cylinder

[Project Grandslam]

Hello all, as some of you may know. I need a new master cylinder for my 1963 Mercedes 220Sb w/ single circuit, disk brakes. Does anybody know of a reliable source that sells them for cheap or a rebuild kit. The reason I ask is, I don't want to waste almost 500$ on the Classic Center master cyl. The part number on pelican parts was 001-430-63-01-MBZ. Also I don't want to buy a brand new master that was sitting for 20 years on the shelf. If anyone knows a cheap rebuild kit I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

[joshhol]

I'm sure many have had good luck with a rebuild kit, but on a single circuit with a car as nice as yours, personally I'd get a whole new MC. As old as yours looks from the outside, you may have pitting and corrosion in the bore. Don't chance it.

[Project Grandslam]

You're right, thanks

[JeffreyNMemphis]

I have the same car you have and needed a master cylinder. $500 was the discounted price; the list price if I recall correctly was $7**.00. I got lucky on eBay with a NOS unit that works perfectly.

Your brake booster may also need a rebuild. I got a kit from Will Samples in Dallas at S&S Imports (Google to find him). Some of the parts needed to rebuild are no longer available through the Classic Center, but Will Samples has everything. I rebuild my brake booster a few years ago and it still works correctly.

[JeffreyNMemphis]

I plugged the part number you cited into eBay search. The master cylinders that come up do not look right to me because they have two reservoir fittings. Our master cylinder has one reservoir.

The part number I used is 001 430 11 01.

[97 SL320]

Don't count on E bay pics, many times stock E bay pics are being used. ( it keeps Ebays storage requirements down. )

[ejboyd5]

1) Why did you start a new thread while you already have an active one dealing with you car's failure to stop?
2) Try posting your real name and location to interest more readers in assisting with your problem.
3) Send your MC to Apple Hydraulics in Calverton, NY for a rebuild. They will do a fine job with a short turn around time for a simple products such as this and at a price far less than the numbers being tossed around here.

[ScooterABC]

^^^ grumpy.
I would have started a new specific thread for this also.
I think the correct part number is also 0014301101 but that is only for chassis number 070638 and beyond. If you have an earlier chassis number (last 6 or your VIN) then it's a different part.
The best price I'm seeing for it is $526 and I'm not seeing any rebuilt ones on-line.

[JeffreyNMemphis]

Does anyone know what is special about the "Teves" master brake cylinder? It is listed on the EPC as available on special request. The list price is $1,150.00.

[97 SL320]

With the costs, I'd look towards other cars or even racing master cylinders. Race cars use a balance bar and 2 single port MCs. Tilton is a brand that comes to name. Have a look at oval track parts sellers, Pegasus is a road race parts house. There will need to be some modification but that won't be difficult.

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

With the costs, I'd look towards other cars or even racing master cylinders. Race cars use a balance bar and 2 single port MCs. Tilton is a brand that comes to name. Have a look at oval track parts sellers, Pegasus is a road race parts house. There will need to be some modification but that won't be difficult.

Twin MCs and a balance-bar would still require major firewall surgery.
If you're reluctant to spend for a new ATE MC, and don't want to gamble on one that's been on the shelf for decades, your best bet is either rebuild yours or send it out to be rebuilt.
If there's a problem with the bore on yours, a rebuilder can often install a stainless sleeve.

Alternately, you may be able to find an aftermarket single or dual circuit MC (Tilton has been used for aftermarket and racing applications) that will bolt up to the same mounting as your ATE.
You might even find a MC with a smaller bore to reduce pedal-effort and possibly eliminate the brake servo, though it would then be more critical to keep the rest of your braking system tight and well adjusted to prevent too low a brake pedal.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[ScooterABC]

Jesus guys, give him a break!

1. Forget the racing stuff - it's too much work for what you are trying to fix.
2. Buy the correct MC for $525ish (email me your VIN if not sure)
3. Flush the front and rear system until it is beautiful.
4. Replace any old rubber hoses
5. Enjoy your car.

Some of the suggestions you are getting are WAY over the top for fixing a simple problem.

Forum: are you trying to scare this guy off? Knock it off!

Scott

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Originally Posted by ScooterABC

Jesus guys, give him a break!

1. Forget the racing stuff - it's too much work for what you are trying to fix.
2. Buy the correct MC for $525ish (email me your VIN if not sure)
3. Flush the front and rear system until it is beautiful.
4. Replace any old rubber hoses
5. Enjoy your car.

Some of the suggestions you are getting are WAY over the top for fixing a simple problem.

Forum: are you trying to scare this guy off? Knock it off!

Scott

Well, I'm just trying to cover the OP's requests. Not scare anybody.
But sometimes, getting parts for vintage cars can be a real hassle, and not for the faint of heart!

The OP has said repeatedly that he didn't want to spend $500+ on an OE master cylinder. Others have stated that a new MC from Mercedes is now a lot more than $500. And there was a valid comment about getting one that's been on the shelf too long. A friend recently bought an expensive NOS MC like that for a vintage car and the rubber seals had turned to goo after 20 years. So he wound up having to get it rebuilt anyway. Fortunately, the seller of that new MC paid for the rebuild.
Given these concerns, I felt the best bet would be to rebuild, or have rebuilt, the original ATE MC.

Now, if the classic center, or whoever has a $500 NOS ATE MC for that car, is willing to guaranty the age and condition of that part, maybe the best choice would be a new one.

As for the Tilton, another friend used to vintage-race a '65 Sunbeam Tiger and he found one to convert that car to a dual-circuit system that was a straight bolt-on, required no firewall modifications, and it cost much less than $500. They're made in all sorts of configurations and bore sizes.
Not saying that one is availible to fit an old Fintail, but thought it might be a possibility.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[ScooterABC]

I just thought it was overkill for someone new to the scene. And I didn't like the post crabbing at a new guy for starting a new thread specific to finding a MC for his car. I would have started a new thread too. All the information is interesting but also quite overwhelming for someone new to this stuff.

[97 SL320]

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

Twin MCs and a balance-bar would still require major firewall surgery.
If you're reluctant to spend for a new

I should have been more clear, I was not suggesting that a balance bar setup be installed. ( " Look towards other cars. . . . " )

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

Alternately, you may be able to find an aftermarket single or dual circuit MC (Tilton has been used for aftermarket and racing applications) that will bolt up to the same mounting as your ATE.

The above is what I was suggesting

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

You might even find a MC with a smaller bore to reduce pedal-effort and possibly eliminate the brake servo, though it would then be more critical to keep the rest of your braking system tight and well adjusted to prevent too low a brake pedal.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Small bore will give a long pedal stroke and make it more difficult to modulate the brakes of the stroke is too long.