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#46
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Pelican should have the valve adjustment wrenches. Samstag for other stuff. Be sure to check those oil cooler hoses for dryness/ cracking. Easy to overlook and devastating if they fail.
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 |
#47
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Go online to Hemmings Motor News or pick up a copy. They have several pages on auto transport companies.
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#48
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Quote:
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#49
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So as far as shipping goes. This is what I have found:
most of the quotes are right around the $1000 mark. Some well above (about $2000) and a some just under at around $850. I haven't called any yet to talk in person, but presumable a location that is slightly easier to get to may lower the quote. Some have a remote location charge on them. THe companies I am looking at are: ABC Auto shipping ($1050) Ship a car direct ($1095) Reliable Carriers Inc. ($2495) Intercity Lines (no quote yet) Executive Auto Shippers ($1000 w. $200 deposit) Amerifreight ($885) Any thoughts on any of these. They all have pretty decent-good reviews. So any personal experience might be nice. I will be calling all of them later today to work out the quotes and locations. I'll update you all on it after! |
#50
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I'm back in Utah. The ABQ seller never responded so I didn't get to look at that car. Looks like you've got things sorted out, though.
RE Tools: If you lack a basic kit buy it - wrenches, ratchet and sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, etc. I like Craftsman tools. They're not as "cool" as Snap-On or Hazet but I've used them for 30 years and they have gotten many jobs done. Then, as you get into projects, buy the ones you need as you need them. I'd go ahead and get the "bent" valve adjust wrenches. How are you fielding shippers? I'd avoid sites like uShip.com. They make finding a shipper easy but you will pay more as uShip makes money off the deal. It's always best to contact the shipper directly for a quote and to make arrangements. Any of those shippers would most likely be OK. Ask about their insurance coverage. Go with one of the mid-to-low priced quotes, not the cheapest and not the most expensive.
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- Greg - 1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz 1974 240D |
#51
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I was just looking them up online. I'm not sure how to tell if a site is an aggregator or a sipping company themselves. Are there other ways to look?
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#52
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Also, any thoughts on shipping by rail?
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#53
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Quote:
BTW: $1000 sounds about right for shipping a car almost from one coast to the other. In my time in NM I shipped multiple cars to the west coast and Houston and it usually cost $700 - $800.
__________________
- Greg - 1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz 1974 240D |
#54
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Could be OK, but I have never done it. What are the prices looking like? I assume you've got a terminal on your end. Would the shipper have an adequate terminal on their end, or would they have to go out of their way to get the car there?
__________________
- Greg - 1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz 1974 240D |
#55
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May be possible if you can ship where the Auto-Train runs. But I inquired at the local rail-yard in Oklahoma City many years ago when I needed to get an antique car from Oklahoma to Northern Virginia and they all but laughed at me. Seemed they weren't really interested in my cargo unless I was GE or GM, & told me to go hire a truck! I wound up buying a used tow-dolly and driving my Isuzu pickup to Oklahoma to tow it back myself.
Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
#56
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I think I am going to stick with truck transport. The rail quote form I filled out sold my info to a bunch of companies and I've been getting swamped with spam--I've been having my fun with it though.
My question now is: how do I transfer a title across states if I am not going in person? I hadn't really thought of this until just now, and I'm realizing that it's probably a bit more complicated that id imagine. Thanks again for the help! |
#57
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Title xfer is easy, even across states. The seller will sign the title and send it with the car. You should get a bill of sale too, indicating date of sale and how much money the deal was for, and who was the seller and who was the buyer, with signatures. Some states have "official" bill of sale forms. If so for the state the car's coming from you'll want one from that state (seller should provide). You can also get away with a document you and the seller come up with. Google "vehicle bill of sale" to get some ideas of what all they include. It's important for all the names to match respective IDs. If your drivers' license name has a middle initial include it on the paperwork, and the seller should match their name to the name on the title exactly.
Then, when you get the car, you'll take it and the title/bill of sale down to the DMV and hand it over to the clerk. You'll also need proof of insurance. They'll most likely do a VIN inspection on the car to make sure it matches the paperwork. The tax you pay will most likely be based on the sale amount indicated on the bill of sale. You and the seller can agree to document a lower amount to save you some dough. Not all states base the fee on the sale amount, though. You should call the DMV in the state you're going to register the car in and ask them about all these details for a "for sure" answer. Wouldn't hurt to call the DMV in the seller's state too, to make sure you understand what all's involved on their end.
__________________
- Greg - 1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz 1974 240D |
#58
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It is also important to insure the car the moment you complete the transaction to buy the car. While transport companies normally have insurance, having your own insurance even while the car is being transported is a good idea.
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#59
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Okay!!! Car paid for and shipping arrangements are in the later stages. We are making strides here!!! This is getting extremely exciting as it gets closer to reality.
Now for insurance! What do you guys think would make for a good/affordable provider for a car like this? This is also my first time buying insurance, so again, any info would be great! I was looking at State Farm a little while ago, but I'm not really sure. Maybe you all have other companies you would recommend. Also, my plan once I get the car is to do a valve adjustment and try to service the Speedo cable and get it looked at by a mechanic to see what else needs doing. Does this sound reasonable? Thanks again for all your help throughout I really can't thank you all enough. Your assistance has been invaluable and I don't think I would have gotten this far without it. |
#60
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Any updates on this? I'm looking forward to seeing some pics of the car after you receive it.
RE Insurance: I've always used State Farm and have been pleased. I also have other insurance through them, and because of that I get a discount on the auto policies I have. I'd stay away from the Geicos and Progressives as they can be tough to deal with in a claim situation, but I know folks who use them and have been happy. BWhitmore's suggestion that you insure the car immediately prior to transport is a sound one. Yes, your plan on having someone look at the car to tell you what all it might need is good. Apart from evaluating the driveline, have them check out the suspension, too. Chances are there will be things that need to be done and you can ask for their help (and ours) prioritizing the list.
__________________
- Greg - 1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz 1974 240D |
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