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  #1  
Old 05-25-2016, 01:37 AM
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1967 W108 280S revival

I have a 1967 280S w108 that I bought as a non-runner and now I am checking on the basics to see if I can get it to turn by hand. I removed the spark plugs and filled the bores with Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO). Next step is to remove the valve covers and pour MMO in the heads and the timing chain. My question is what size bolts hold the valve cover and what size is the crank pulley bolt.
My storage place, where the 280S resides, is a distance from home and all my tools are at home so I need to take the necessary tools with me.
Thank You

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Old 05-25-2016, 07:42 AM
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I'm not at the car right now, but I believe the crank is 27mm. The valve cover was small, in the 13-15mm range.
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  #3  
Old 05-25-2016, 12:10 PM
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Hello 49er,

The valve cover bolts are small and your tool kit for the car is likely to have the size you need from 8mm to 17mm. I have a 280S motor at my storage garage. I believe that I turned the crank with a 24mm socket. Harbor Freight sells a 1/2 inch impact wrench socket kit for $19.99 with eleven different sizes. I am sure that I used one of those to turn the crank bolt.

It is nice to see a fellow Houstonian here!

Jeffrey
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1957 Ponton 220S

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Old 06-06-2016, 01:55 AM
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W108 revival

I removed the spark plugs and filled the bores with Marvel Mystery Oil, last week. Today I removed the cam cover to lubricate the timing chain and everything else with PB blaster. I found that the cam lobes, that were exposed, were covered with some kind of crud. And the outside of the cam itself where it meets the cam bearing saddles was also covered with the same rusty looking crud. In a few days I will try to rotate the engine by hand to see if the engine is seized. Should the engine rotate what do I do about the camshaft? Can it be cleaned or should I start looking for a new cam?
Funny thing the oil sitting in the heads looked very clean.
Thanks
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:55 AM
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The camshaft can be taken to a machine shop for evaluation, cleaning and machining if possible. Would certainly be cheaper than buying a new one. A used one might need cleaning and machine work too.

Your description of the internal components is scary. If you are willing to pull the camshaft, then I would consider rebuilding the whole engine. It would be disappointing to get the cam cleaned and polished, re-installed and then have a catastrophic failure in components you did not see.

Take some pictures! We love pictures here on the forum.

Jeffrey
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1962 220Sb ~ The Emerald Bullet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hx6tN1W48_o
1957 Ponton 220S

2001 S600 Daily Driver
The Universe is Abundant ~ Life is GOOD!http://www.classiccarclock.com
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  #6  
Old 06-06-2016, 05:46 PM
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Here you go:

1967 W108 280S revival-20160605_160414.jpg

1967 W108 280S revival-20160605_160350.jpg
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  #7  
Old 06-06-2016, 06:21 PM
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Man, that does raise some concern levels. Thank you Houston humidity! I grew up in Bryan/College station, and lived in Houston '95 - '99. I know about the moisture you deal with down there. I wouldn't turn the engine over until that stuff is cleaned up.

Prior to going for a full-on rebuild you might consider pulling the head to see how the cylinders and valves look. Pull the lower oil pan, too, to see how the bottom end looks. If that stuff is clean you might get away with replacing or refinishing the cam.

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