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  #211  
Old 11-23-2016, 01:00 AM
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Continuing to work on the exhaust. Since my skill and welder cannot make pretty welds I'm beveling the edges, fill with weld, and grind flat.

I fit the first set of pipes coming down from the manifolds, tacked to the flanges.



Then started back on the X-pipe and connecting pipes. Taking time to make all this fit and look good. But kind of fun.

The bottom of the exhaust is about 1/4" higher than the pan on the trans. But will be about 1 3/4" lower than what the stock exhaust was. Just no room for the exhaust to be higher. The emergency brake mechanism is under the driveshaft and blocks the only real area that could hold the exhaust. I'm setting the distance between the pipes after the X-pipe to 4". This will leave room to adjust the emergency brake and/or be able to remove the driveshaft.




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  #212  
Old 11-23-2016, 05:31 PM
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Make sure the welder polarity is set up for flux core, it is different than gas welding.

Try pushing and pulling.

Make sure you have a strong 110 outlet / wiring rated for 20 Amps and don't use small extension cords. Make sure the ground wire / clamp is in good condition and is attached to a bare clean area of steel, mill scale must be removed. It also helps to grind off mill scale at the weld site even though flux core will sort of burn through the scale.

For welding info try here:

weldingweb.com

https://www.millerwelds.com


MIG Problems and Remedies
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  #213  
Old 11-26-2016, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Make sure the welder polarity is set up for flux core, it is different than gas welding.

Try pushing and pulling.

Make sure you have a strong 110 outlet / wiring rated for 20 Amps and don't use small extension cords. Make sure the ground wire / clamp is in good condition and is attached to a bare clean area of steel, mill scale must be removed. It also helps to grind off mill scale at the weld site even though flux core will sort of burn through the scale.

For welding info try here:

weldingweb.com

https://www.millerwelds.com


MIG Problems and Remedies


Thanks for sharing. I was setup as you listed, did get a little better result by actually swapping polarity opposite. The only other thing could be the gauge of the wire. I'm using .035, going to order .030 and try.

Thanks again.


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  #214  
Old 11-26-2016, 01:09 AM
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Moved forward on the exhaust, just tacking until I get some different wire to try. I actually finished the entire system, less final welding and bolting on the tips. I'm really excited on how it all turned out.

The stock exhaust was a single 2", I'm 1" lower to the top of the pipe and 1/2" larger diameter, so the bottom of the new exhaust is 1 1/2" lower than stock. I've got about 3/4" min clearance to the floor pan. Everything is serviceable. I used 3 hangers on each side. Each hanger is pointed forward. I set this up so that I can unbolt the exhaust at the manifolds and slide rearward off of the hangers as one unit. At least that's the plan.

I used a laser level for the fitment. The system is completely balanced and no point is greater than 1/4" different than the other. The driveshaft, at the pumpkin, is actually affect about 1". The pic makes it look like the tunes are not straight and off center, but they aren't.

I've got one pair of flow through ovals and one pair of flow through rounds. Hoping I have most of the exhaust note toned down.

The entire system, including the Magnaflow mufflers is stainless steel and will be fully welded except that the exhaust tips will be clamped on.

The 230 had a single exhaust pipe, exiting on the drivers side. Due to the gas tank being off center toward the passenger side, I had to move the stock exhaust cutout outward by 1 1/2" so that the passenger side muffler would clear the tank with some breathing room. I made a template of the stock exhaust exit and after some time fabbing and welding have a nice set of original shaped, balanced, exhaust penetrations. Now you can see what a 230 looks like with dual exhaust!














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  #215  
Old 11-26-2016, 06:58 PM
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Wonderful progress! You must be getting the itch to drive it already.
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  #216  
Old 11-27-2016, 01:29 AM
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Wonderful progress! You must be getting the itch to drive it already.
So so true! More excited to have the first start on the engine!

Since this is what I do for fun, I have to remember to enjoy the process.
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  #217  
Old 11-27-2016, 01:56 AM
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Plumbing and electrical are the next big hurdles. Lots and lots of little fittings and pieces to order. So today I tackled the battery relocation, radiator install, condenser install, and trans cooler install. This to get me where I can make another order from Summit.

Since everything is custom I had to fabricate all the brackets.

Started with the battery, bought a custom aluminum holder assembly, and with 1/4-20 rivnuts bolted to the trunk floor. Installed the new Optima battery and drilled, tapped, and welded a bolt in the top of a body structural member to ground the battery to.

Then on to the cooling. Made brackets for the radiator and condenser, and again used 1/4-20 rivnuts to bolt them in. Technology has really changed, the old condenser was 3" thick and the new one is 1" thick.

I used this same B&M trans cooler on my Jeep LS swap and like it. I had to mount it in an area without direct airflow, same as this build. And only when I'm really pushing it does the fan ever come on. The only good real estate in the space on the passenger side beside the radiator. Tight fit and I had to leave room for the A/C lines to get around. On my Factory Five 818 build I had to buy a bunch of Cleco's, got to make use of them again. The brackets for the oil cooler are riveted with 3/16" rivets.

Then I made my list of plumbing and electrical parts for this stage and ordered. With the radiator and condenser installed I could measure what space is left for the fans, ordered a 12" pusher for the condenser and a 16" puller for the radiator, both by Spal. Mo money!




















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  #218  
Old 11-27-2016, 02:46 PM
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I love how clean the bay looks. I know there's going to be more wiring, hoses, etc. but I assume your plan is to keep it as tidy as possible. With everything smoothed out & more ancillaries installed, you can really tell the difference.
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  #219  
Old 11-27-2016, 03:00 PM
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+1 on the cleanliness of the engine bay. Looks great! When you get it running post a video somewhere and a link so we can hear it.
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  #220  
Old 11-28-2016, 03:02 AM
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I love how clean the bay looks. I know there's going to be more wiring, hoses, etc. but I assume your plan is to keep it as tidy as possible. With everything smoothed out & more ancillaries installed, you can really tell the difference.
Thanks Tomguy!

Well the plan is to keep the engine bay clean. But as you mentioned, lots of hoses and wires to go!

Right now I'm trying to get all the hard parts bolted in place so that hoses and wiring can be well organized.
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  #221  
Old 11-28-2016, 03:04 AM
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+1 on the cleanliness of the engine bay. Looks great! When you get it running post a video somewhere and a link so we can hear it.
Thanks for the compliment!

I plan on first start, running well, and dyno videos, stay tuned!
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  #222  
Old 11-28-2016, 03:27 AM
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Family day so only had a couple hours.

As I had mentioned, I'm installing a Vintage Air system. And since I planned on new wiring and recovering the dash there was no point in procrastinating in pulling everything.

So after everything was out I cleaned up the surface rust on the new metal, wiped all the metal down with prep-sol and primed the exposed metal with Nason self etching primer. Then brushed on some 3m autobody sealant. After I spray some paint on everything tomorrow I'll replace the bitumen sound deadening material.

In between drying times I'm bolting in the Vintage Air evaporator/heater.

Other parts/upgrades are in the process of being ordered and/or shipping. The plan is to keep the car as original looking as possible. But some upgrades I want will show. The current list is; push button start, replace the cable operated hood latch operation with a solenoid, new gauge set that includes a tach and gps speedo that also looks close to stock, and the one item that will really show is a touch screen based apple CarPlay w/backup camera. The A/C heat system controls in the stock dash can, I believe, be utilized with some parts from Vintage Air to keep the dash looking the same. I will have to build a new lower dash/console due to the CarPlay unit and the wider trans tunnel, but I will make it similar to look like stock.






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  #223  
Old 11-30-2016, 01:29 AM
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I very carefully had to drill 4 holes in the new firewall for the heater box.

After a good coat of black paint on all the exposed floor pan and firewall I installed the bitumen pads. This is basically the same material that came from the factory. This material has a little weight to it. Each pack of 6, 12" x 12", weighs 3.8 lbs. I used 20 sheets, so about 12 lbs.

I have the heater box in place and so I was able to figure out what fittings and hoses to order.

Then I reinstalled the brake pedal assembly to organize the installation on the new drive-by-wire gas pedal. As you can see in this pic I have some fab work to "adjust" the pedal shaft to be oriented correctly with the brake pedal. On for tomorrow.

But I should have lots to do as my orders from this weekend should start arriving Wednesday.

I just realized I'm to the stage where it feels like I'm building a new car. All the old rusty greasy crap is gone and everything is clean, painted and new!








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  #224  
Old 12-01-2016, 11:28 AM
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Looks nice. Got any pics of the other side of the firewall, showing the A/C and heater core hookups? I never heard of Vintage Air before, what kit / parts are you using? Sorry if you said & I missed that.
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  #225  
Old 12-01-2016, 03:19 PM
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Looks nice. Got any pics of the other side of the firewall, showing the A/C and heater core hookups? I never heard of Vintage Air before, what kit / parts are you using? Sorry if you said & I missed that.
I'm using their Magnum IV system. It's their largest size for 4-door cars. Vintage Air has their own website but sells through distributors, I buy through Summit.

I had to mount the unit first to know what fittings to buy. Since my fabricated firewall was shifted rearward in the middle to allow the engine to be shifted back I had to mount the unit about 4"-5" toward the passenger side from center. This required me to source some fittings to turn quicker into the engine bay. Those should arrive tomorrow. The hose kit for the refridgeration lines, E-Z Clip, are on the slow boat I guess, still haven't arrived yet.

The compressor I purchased from Dirty Dingo to go with their front drive system.
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