'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap

[Coasttocoast]

Finished up fitting the arm on the gas peddle and moved on to some plumbing and wiring. I've had some continuing education to do for work and a small party at the house so play time has been limited.

Had to make some changes to the wiring harness I had done by 150 tunes. So I had to open up the wrapping, add some of the wires from the new fuse box kit for Kwikwire to things like the A/C, neutral switch, temp and oil pressure senders and swap the side of the engine the mass air sensor was on.

It was getting dark so I didn't take a pic, but I have the harness feed through the firewall and most of the engine plugged in. Looking nice and mostly out of view.






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[Tomguy]

Mad jealous of the Hakko. Probably made the soldering work take a fraction of the time my HF special takes (that being said, it still is way better than the Radio Shack one it replaced).

[Coasttocoast]

Originally Posted by Tomguy

Mad jealous of the Hakko. Probably made the soldering work take a fraction of the time my HF special takes (that being said, it still is way better than the Radio Shack one it replaced).

When I'm not playing with cars I build two channel stereo stuff. I've build DAC's, tube amps, chip amps, tube pre-amps, subwoofers, several sets of speakers and a turntable.

Lucky for me that some tools can be used for both hobbies!

[Coasttocoast]

Worked on radiator hoses, radiator and condenser fans, and bracket for the the fuse box today, and took some pics of some of the other work in progress.

Obviously there is no ready made set of hoses for this swap, so took some measurements and spent some time going through the rack of hoses in the back of my local OReily store. Found a good set that with a little trimming fit perfect. I did have an ace in the hole, I spent $125 on a swivel neck t-stat housing to open up some options. Don't know why you can buy one for a small block Chevy for $100 less when they are almost exactly the same.

I'm using Fragola Performance Systems 8000 Push-Lite Race Hose for trans oil cooler and fuel lines. Easy to work with, looks clean, and holds 250psi. My first try was the connecting the front of the fuel rails.

Up next is to mount the fuse box and start organizing the wires. In some ways I'm jumping the gun as I need the harnesses that come with the new gauges and the push button/remote control equipment to integrate. But I only need a few of the wires terminated to start the engine. And I'm too excited to wait.

I pulled the dash and cleaned it up, took some picks to get an estimate to refurbish. Pricing from Just Dashes, insane that it looks like they are the only company that does this work. Even more insane is that they want around $1750 plus shipping, plus takes 3 months turnaround. I would have grudgingly paid the price, but not even responsible to run a company that takes that kind of time for this type of work.

So working on a plan B, but won't take me 3 months!

[Coasttocoast]

Seems like I'm building one bracket after another lately. Brackets for the fuse box, remote oil filter and the solenoid for the hood release in the last couple days.

Space is filling up so each item that needs to go in takes more and more planning. Each plan required more fittings and misc parts. But so far so good. I've been successful so far to make all service items easy for future maintenance.

I'm hoping my plan to use a 40 lb solenoid will actually open the hood. This eliminates the pull handle inside the cabin and the cable running through the engine bay. I welded a little larger piece of metal to it's built in bracket to give more structure, 40 lbs is a pretty strong pull. I believe this is the last electrical item to mount in the front of the car. Now I can build that section of the harness and get it fitted.

The engine/crossmember layout required the use of a front sump pan. The oil fittings from the rear section of the engine come down just right at the new rack and pinion. So 90* fittings required and also a little bit of a loop to clear the top of the rack. So I made a bracket for the remote filter, put together the -10 braided lines, and mounted/connected it all. Turned out pretty clean. The filter is easily changed from either under the car or from above. The oil drain plug is on the passenger front corner of the pan. So no major climbing under the car to change the oil.

After making a mounting bracket to hold the fuse box level and square with the car I can now start separating the wire sections and start playing electrician. Fuse box is just out of view and above foot space but still easily accessible for diagnostic's and service.










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[JMela]

This is not your first rodeo. Nice, clean work throughout.

I'd like to see the DIY audio items, are they posted on any other forum?

[Coasttocoast]

Originally Posted by JMela

This is not your first rodeo. Nice, clean work throughout.

I'd like to see the DIY audio items, are they posted on any other forum?

Thanks for the positive comments!

I've worked on/built/modified a total 6 cars counting this 230. Up until about 10-12 years ago I didn't even change my own oil.

I go under "coasttocoast" on diyaudio.com, I have some of my projects detailed there.

Thanks again.

[97 SL320]

I'd tend to keep the hood cable or at least have a cable backup / place to manually release the latch.

The release cable could be run under the fender ( looking from where the tire is ) or a short cable hidden under the bumper.

[Coasttocoast]

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

I'd tend to keep the hood cable or at least have a cable backup / place to manually release the latch.

The release cable could be run under the fender ( looking from where the tire is ) or a short cable hidden under the bumper.

That's a good idea, thanks. I'll see how I can incorporate the backup up under the wheel well.


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[Coasttocoast]

Still working on wiring and plumbing.

Installed the new -6 AN fuel supply/return lines from the tank (missing last pair of tank connecting fittings) to the fuel filter/pressure regulator and fuel rails. I installed the new lines in the original route under the floor pan.

Completed the remote engine oil filter and lines.

Completed the transmission cooler lines to the B&M oil cooler/fan assembly.

Ran the new #2 awg positive cable from the battery in the trunk to the starter. I basically ran it down the passenger side similar to the fuel lines on the drivers side. For safety I installed a 135 amp breaker next to the battery. I installed the ground strap from the engine to the front frame rail and connected the battery to the ground post I previously installed next to the battery in a body frame and connected the positive side of the battery to the breaker. The extra nice benefit of the breaker is I can use it as an off/on switch as I'm rewiring the car. The lugs are crimped, soldered, and shrink wrapped. The #2 cable was covered with plastic wire loom wrap.

Tomorrow I will work on the heater A/C lines and that about finishes up the engine bay.









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[Mike D]

Just wondering. What is the amp draw from the starter motor? My experience is mostly with diesel engines with a higher current draw but a 135 amp breaker, on a long run of 2/0 cable, sounds a bit low.

How many amps should a LS starter draw while cranking? - LS1TECH

[97 SL320]

I was thinking that you could run the factory hood cable under the front fender and into the car. If that does not work, use one from another car or another brand.

[Coasttocoast]

Originally Posted by Mike D

Just wondering. What is the amp draw from the starter motor? My experience is mostly with diesel engines with a higher current draw but a 135 amp breaker, on a long run of 2/0 cable, sounds a bit low.

How many amps should a LS starter draw while cranking? - LS1TECH

Good catch, I should have done a little more research on the amp draw. I guess the draw could be as high as 350 amps, but it seems like that's in extreme conditions and 200 amp is the most common size. I prefer to be on the conservative side.

I like the added benefit of the switch on the breaker so I just purchased a 200 amp version, typically used in the marine industry.

Thanks for commenting.

[Coasttocoast]

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

I was thinking that you could run the factory hood cable under the front fender and into the car. If that does not work, use one from another car or another brand.

I like the idea of being located up high in the fender well. It would be used as just a backup in case the solenoid failed. This also aids in my goal of cleaning up the engine bay and footwell.

Thanks

[Coasttocoast]

I made good progress today and enjoyed myself. I was able to complete the installation of the condenser, evaporator, drier, and all the the related refrigeration lines and heater lines. Even to the point of filling the radiator system and put some freon in the AC system until it can be properly evacuated and charged.

I was really excited about how easy the DIY lines from Vintage Air were to put together. It's an interesting system in which there is a clip that snaps into the actual fitting with a pair of legs that run down each side of the hose with a pair of notches in it that the snap rings lock over. The hose and fittings slip together with just enough friction that you know it's a proper fit, but not to the point you have to use massive strength or a vise etc. The only issue is the $70 clamp pliers your supposed to buy. I took a chance and didn't buy them. Instead I slightly modified a set of pliers I already had with my angle grinder. Worked great!

I also installed the Lokar dipstick for the trans. I am waiting to fill the trans until after I get the shifter installed and adjust the tension on the linkage. Also need to remove and paint the pan.

As hard as I've tried the engine bay still gets busier and busier. Still better than where I started.

Since the new condenser is over an 1 1/2" thinner I can fit the Spal fan and still get the radiator support rod and horns to fit (needs a little tweaking and paint) with the fan slightly off center.




















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