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  #91  
Old 07-22-2016, 03:51 AM
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Here is the pan sitting on the crossmember.

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg

Front to back is my planned final location.

I plan on the pan sitting about 1" higher that where it sits. The bottom of the pan will be right at flush with the existing crossmember and the crankshaft centerline will be right at the same as the old engine.

In this location the heads will be about 1 1/2" forward of the most forward section of the firewall. Confortable amount of room from the engine accessories to the electric radiator fan.

The R&P will fit nicely under the pan with room for the remote oil filter line to exit.

It looks like, with the right header, there is enough room to get the exhaust out of the engine compartment.

Now for my bad news. I don't think the truck intake manifold is going to fit. My quick rough measurements show I need about 2 more inches. Swapping the intake involves changing the accessories and front drive. In a few more days I'll have some more concrete info.
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  #92  
Old 07-22-2016, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coasttocoast View Post
Here is the pan sitting on the crossmember.


Now for my bad news. I don't think the truck intake manifold is going to fit. My quick rough measurements show I need about 2 more inches. Swapping the intake involves changing the accessories and front drive. In a few more days I'll have some more concrete info.

Are these manifolds cast iron or stainless ( it will be low grade SS and not shiny ) ?

If iron, someone has to be making steel tube shorty / block hugger headers that you could use / modify.

If SS you could cut weld the manifold. Low grade SS welds great with steel wire and argon / CO2 gas, I repaired bunches of cracked manifolds along the way.
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  #93  
Old 07-23-2016, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Are these manifolds cast iron or stainless ( it will be low grade SS and not shiny ) ?

If iron, someone has to be making steel tube shorty / block hugger headers that you could use / modify.

If SS you could cut weld the manifold. Low grade SS welds great with steel wire and argon / CO2 gas, I repaired bunches of cracked manifolds along the way.
I have in mind to use these Hooker manifolds. They come in silver ceramic coated.

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg

After a couple test fits of the engine in the bay I'll have a better idea if these will work, but there are a few other options.
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  #94  
Old 07-23-2016, 07:00 AM
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Had a little time this afternoon to strip down the engine. I sprayed all the bolts with PB Blaster a couple of days ago. Didn't have any problems pulling bolts.

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg

I have a few hours tomorrow so I'm hoping to get in a first test fit. The wrecking yard did not drain the fluids out, so first up is to drain the oil and trans fluid before I make a big mess.

The fluids look good, no bad colors or smells. Pulled a couple plugs and the engine looks like it was running properly. Looking into the intake and exhaust ports good too. No carbon build up in the exhaust and intake ports look pretty clean.

The outside is going to take a bit of cleaning and dressing up though.

An LS6 intake is about 6" shorter than the truck intake. So that will solve my hood clearance issue. But that brings on some belt/accessory issues, there are a couple of companies make relocation brackets for that. Just mo money!
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  #95  
Old 07-25-2016, 03:43 AM
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Yesterday I only had enough time to drain the fluids, swap on the new front sump pan, and get chained up to the hoist.

I had about 5 hours today to see how hard this is going to be to get in.

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg

Kinda doesn't look like it'll go in with the radiator support in the way. I measured it out ahead of time and figured with the right tool it will go.
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  #96  
Old 07-25-2016, 03:47 AM
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With a little push here and crank on the hoist bracket to tip the trans further down, and then in a little more, then down a little, you get the idea

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg

Looking closer! But is there enough room between the firewall and the radiator support to fit the engine at this angle?
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  #97  
Old 07-25-2016, 03:56 AM
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Of course there is!

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg

I installed the motor mounts I purchased on the engine, the receiver needs to be fabricated to the frame. But in this pic I have the engine 95% in the final position. The new motor mounts are actually supporting the engine from the old motor mount location.

I have the engine about as low as reasonable for center of gravity. The new pan hangs below the crossmember about 1". I will fabricate a shield to the forward brace to protect the pan.

I set the old ugly truck intake on the engine, to use I would need to lower the engine another 1 1/2". So I will be using a car version intake.
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  #98  
Old 07-25-2016, 04:02 AM
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I have about 2 1/2" clear from the back of the heads to the firewall. I had planned on 1 1/2" to shift as much weight rearward, but I'm happy with the room on the front for the accessories here.

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg

The center of the engine is just a little rearward of the center of the original motor mount location. I know I have moved the center of gravity lower and rearward from the original engine.
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  #99  
Old 07-25-2016, 04:09 AM
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In this location I will have a good two inches clear from the water pump pulley to the radiator fan on the original radiator. This is good because I'll probably get a thicker aluminum radiator with a shroud which will need this extra space.

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg

Tomorrow I'll bolt on some accessories, exhaust manifolds, and see about the brake booster.
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  #100  
Old 07-25-2016, 04:32 AM
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I had to cut up the transmission tunnel some to fit this monster sized 4L80e in. Basically it is about 2" wider, so I cut out a section 1" in on both sides and then up about 4" high. Where the original manual shift penetration is the tunnel transitions down and in. I have the transmission touching here and I really want to go up another inch. I'll probably start patching the tunnel from the front to build back some strength before I cut any more.

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg

Should be able to reform the tunnel without too much notice. Not as much cutting away as I thought there would be.

I did have to cut away a lot of the structure that the rear transmission mount was attached too. So going to have to add metal back for the new mount brace to attach to.

But all in all a good day. Looks like everything is going to be able to be worked out and I feel confident that overall handling of the car will benefit from this swap due to more balance front to back weight and lower center of gravity.

Going home to the Mainland this week for the week, except off and here to work on the car tomorrow.

But when I get back I'll continue to replace as much sheet metal as I can with the engine in place. And also build the rear trans mount. I will need to make exact layout marks for the motor mount receivers so they can be correctly placed after the engine is out.

Then I will complete the sheet metal work, re build the crossmember, install the motor mount receivers and then paint the engine bay.

I have read other swaps where they install and pull the engine several times to get everything worked out. I'm trying to plan more. It's a lot of work threading this engine and trans into the hole, I only want to do it one more time!
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  #101  
Old 07-26-2016, 02:31 AM
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Today I fabricated a rear transmission mount/support bracket. Now the engine is fully sitting in the car without jacks or a lift.

I started measuring out for the brake booster. I had in mind I would need a 7" dia booster or go to hydroboost.

Got lucky, actually the stock booster fits (by 3/8") in its original location. Pretty excited about his because I was happy with the existing brake system and feel.

If anything I might need to trim a little off the corner of the valve cover if the engine rocks too much.

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg
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Last edited by Coasttocoast; 07-31-2016 at 11:36 AM.
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  #102  
Old 07-31-2016, 05:37 AM
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cool build so far. what are you gonna do about the cross member? you just removed all of the structure of the front suspension.
what pan is that ? i saw a s13 swap front sump pan that i have considered for an ls swap from canton.i just found this one also. Fueled Racing Moroso Oil Pan kit S chassis - Ace Up Motorsports
i know there is a little more structure in a w114 compared to a w111 but i still wouldnt be comfortable with taking that much out. this looks like you get a good bit more clearance to get more of that cross member fore aft thickness back.
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  #103  
Old 07-31-2016, 12:07 PM
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Recently ran into this thread:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/1972-mercedes-280se-45-making-luxurious-uncomforta/107877/page1/

It's a W108, but there are some similarities to what you're up to, Coasttocoast, including the cross member and steering mods.
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  #104  
Old 07-31-2016, 12:19 PM
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Yes I'm following that thread with great interest for a future project too. I don't like that cut either and with the r129/w124 Pan on that car it wouldn't have been necessary. But I guess if you reinforce it enough it will be ok. Just not ideal.
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  #105  
Old 08-03-2016, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rwd4evr View Post
cool build so far. what are you gonna do about the cross member? you just removed all of the structure of the front suspension.
what pan is that ? i saw a s13 swap front sump pan that i have considered for an ls swap from canton.i just found this one also. Fueled Racing Moroso Oil Pan kit S chassis - Ace Up Motorsports
i know there is a little more structure in a w114 compared to a w111 but i still wouldnt be comfortable with taking that much out. this looks like you get a good bit more clearance to get more of that cross member fore aft thickness back.
Thanks for posting and your comments.

I bought the pan off of eBay, it's a copy of canton 15-276.

As far as the crossmember is concerned, I did not cut though the center in its entirety. I only removed what would be in conflict with the pan in my proposed location. I made several measurements in the engine bay area before I started cutting anything. Even with the engine currently sitting on the crossmember the measurements remain the same.

After I finish fitting everything possible I will remove the engine and completely rebuild the crossmember with additional steel for support and additional sheet metal skin to keep a factory look. I'll post progress.

My Hooker exhaust manifolds arrived here is some info, I purchased the Titanium ceramic coated ones.

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg
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