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Voltage Regulator-Alternator?
Hello to all from a new member, and a new owner.
I bought a 1973 280C automatic yesterday. I drove it home to San Diego from Orange County, CA about 150 miles. I got home and parked. The very strong smell of sulfur was all over the place, burning my sinuses and eyes, etc. Opened the hood and the battery was boiling. It kept boiling for over an hour. I think I've got either an alternator or voltage regulator problem (and probably a ruined battery, not to mention all the electronics on board which may have been fried...) Question: What is the procedure to replace the external voltage regulator? I don't have a service manual yet, so I'm in the dark somewhat. Should I remove the radiator to make more room to worK? Other than taking precautions not to short out the alternator, what would you guys do, or be thinking about to do this job? Thanks, DutchJim |
#2
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There is no separate voltage regulator - it is built into the alternator, which sounds like it is overcharging. This is not uncommon.
You can get rebuilt Bosch units from many places like Trak or Autozone, but the cheapest I have found is partsouth.com. You remove it from underneath. It is the usual drill to loosen the bolts and slack the belts. by turning this funky bolt which has adjusting teeth on it. The wiring harness unplugs from the alternator. Don't forget to disconnect the battery before starting the r/r.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
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