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  #106  
Old 02-03-2017, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 124Coupe View Post
I just took this photo of mine.

From my notes, top to bottom, I have:

Radio (2A) and aerial (8A)
AC (16A) and auxiliary fan (16A)
Sunroof (25A) and heated rear window (16A)
Windows (16A) and Windows (16A)

Hope this helps!
Thanks for posting the photo. It really helps. I now see that I should have routed the wiring behind the fuse panel rack and I see where the windshield washer hose support should be located.

I have one question. Aren't 25 amp fuses a different color?

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  #107  
Old 02-03-2017, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by berfinroy View Post
The 6.3 tach fits perfectly, although the redline (5,400rpm) is lower than the redline for the 4.5 (5,800rpm). The tack, however, goes to 6,000rpm.
Relocate the clock to the lower dash.
Thanks. The clock doesn't work at the moment so I would not miss it. I could send it off to get it repaired. I bet that tach is pricey!!
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  #108  
Old 02-03-2017, 08:47 AM
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The tach's are pricey. And they don't even know if it works.


1969 Mercedes 300SEL 6 3 Tachometer VDO 300 Sel RPM Tach Gauge W109 1968 1972 | eBay
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  #109  
Old 02-03-2017, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerhofer View Post
I have one question. Aren't 25 amp fuses a different color?
The 25A ones are the stubby ones. He appears to have a 16A fuse in there.
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  #110  
Old 02-03-2017, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomguy View Post
The 25A ones are the stubby ones. He appears to have a 16A fuse in there.
I have some 25 Amp fuses that are blue. I also have some stubby 25 amp fuses that were originally used. Based on how the fuses were listed above, do I have the blue fuse in the correct location?


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  #111  
Old 02-03-2017, 11:10 AM
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Since the sunroof is the 25A fuse, the best way to check would be to pull it and see if the sunroof still opens / closes. That's what I'd do, because to my knowledge, there isn't an actual diagram of these fuses in any of the manuals.
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  #112  
Old 02-03-2017, 11:54 AM
1973 280SEL 4.5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerhofer View Post
I have some 25 Amp fuses that are blue. I also have some stubby 25 amp fuses that were originally used. Based on how the fuses were listed above, do I have the blue fuse in the correct location?
That looks about right. As Tom said, pull and try.

I just double checked and see my sunroof fuse is a red 16A. The replacement blue 25A fuse I have is short and stubby. I do not know if a long 25A fuse is still available.
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  #113  
Old 02-03-2017, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerhofer View Post
My love for German cars began with the '56 VW bug I had in Germany while in the Army. That's me in the driver's seat and my Army buddy Rick in the other photo.
Nice looking Oval! I owned a '56 for a few years. A pal talked me out of it a while back. The Bug I really miss was the '60.
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  #114  
Old 02-03-2017, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomguy View Post
Since the sunroof is the 25A fuse, the best way to check would be to pull it and see if the sunroof still opens / closes. That's what I'd do, because to my knowledge, there isn't an actual diagram of these fuses in any of the manuals.
Pulling the fuses was always an option. But the earlier post of the fuses and the information about which ones went where helped reduce the number of fused I had to pull. Turns out I had to reverse the second row.





When late in the afternoon yesterday I was so close to seeing the engine bay complete, I skipped one step. That was to install a seal around the inside of the air cleaner cover. I took care of that this morning.







Now it was time to put the auxiliary fan and horns back on the car. I had the bracket powder coated. After cleaning everything, the result was that the edges of the condenser looked like they were sandblasted. My wife is an artist and she gave me her hand me down small brushes which really come in handy for touch up work. I painted the edges of the condenser with one of the brushes which really helped the overall look.














After having so much apart, I was apprehensive about starting up the car. Turned the key and it immediately started. Hooray!!!

All that remains in the engine compartment is replacing the hood pad. My buddy is going to help with that. We have a cool front going through this weekend but next week it is supposed to be back in the sixties. Since the glue has such a strong odor, we want to do it when we can have the garage door, windows and man door open.

Last edited by jerhofer; 02-04-2017 at 10:43 AM.
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  #115  
Old 02-04-2017, 09:17 AM
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[QUOTE=jerhofer;3679517]The tach's are pricey. And they don't even know if it works.


Yeah, they are, but there are better deals out there if you search other sources of MB parts.

Absolutely first class detailing job. May I ask how many hours it took you?
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Present vehicles:
1973 300 SEL 4.5
1959 Rolls Royce Silver Cloud I
1959 Ford Thunderbird convertible/430
Past vehicles;
1958 Bentley S 1
1976 ex-Max Hoffman 6.9
1970 300SEL 2.8
1958 Jaguar MK IX
1961 Jaguar MK IX
1963 Jaguar E-type factory special roadster
1948 Plymouth woody
1955 Morgan plus 4
1966 Shelby GT350H Mustang
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  #116  
Old 02-04-2017, 10:42 AM
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[QUOTE=berfinroy;3679902]
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerhofer View Post
The tach's are pricey. And they don't even know if it works.


Yeah, they are, but there are better deals out there if you search other sources of MB parts.

Absolutely first class detailing job. May I ask how many hours it took you?
Thanks for the compliment.

Yesterday was my 19th day owning the car. I began working on it the day after I got the car and there were probably five days that I did not work on it. On the other days, the time varied from a couple hours to six hours. At least 50 hours and most likely more. Who keeps count when you are having so much fun!!!

The powder coater is only fifteen minutes from my house but the yellow zinc coater is an hour away. Since I found additional parts as I deconstructed the car, I made two trips to the yellow zinc guy to drop off parts and one to pick them up. The good part is that most of those trips are on back roads with some very nice corners. BTW, the yellow zinc coatings cost me $100, plus fuel to get there, and the powder coating cost $40.

I didn't post a "before" photo of the auxiliary fan. It was pretty nasty looking. As you can see I need to clean up the bumper after removing the license plate.




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  #117  
Old 02-04-2017, 09:41 PM
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I had a few hours to work on the car today. The next victim was the trunk seal which was in the worst shape I have ever seen. It was so dry that it came off in chunks. After some scraping and using the adhesive remover, I had it ready to accept the new seal. I am putting off installing the new seal until after I clean up the trunk.










My next job brought me back to the seventies and eighties. The first thing I used to do when I bought a car back then was to change out the sealed beam headlights for European halogen lights. I did it because the lights were much brighter and the beam pattern was leagues ahead of the then current lights. My light of choice back then was usually Cibie. All of those lights were not DOT legal and, to my surprise, are still not legal today. I couldn't find Cibie lights but I did find a set of Hella lights that fit the bill.






The lights that were on the car were all Halogen but there were three different brands and they were still sealed beam.







First I removed the headlight surrounds and used chrome polish on them. I then removed the headlight rings and polished them. I found it interesting that of the twelve screws on the four rings, after 45 years all but one still had the nylon retainer on the rear of the screw.




The upper headlight uses a H4 bulb that gives both a low and high beam.







The lower headlight used a H1 bulb which requires adapter wires. This light will only come on with the high beams. Back in the day I would have used a 100 watt bulb but settled for 55 watt this time. With the 100 watt bulb, when high beams were engaged, the night was lit up big time.














I have one issue with the headlights. The right front upper bulb protrudes out from the headlight surround further than the left one. I had noticed this with the old bulbs. I ran out of time to figure out why I have this situation. When I look at the headlights with the surrounds off, the two upper bulbs appear to have same relation to the lower bulbs on both sides. More head scratching will ensue tomorrow!!!
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  #118  
Old 02-04-2017, 10:15 PM
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New H4 headlights

I plan to do this in the near future....I have had the euro lights on several of my cars and this time I think I want to stick with the US headlight assemblies but change out the sealed beam units to the Hella H4 units. I keep toying with the idea of putting the yellow side markers as turn signals on the outside of the surrounds and then putting driving lights were the US turn signals are mounted.

Keep up the great info/work...I think I will share some pics tomorrow of my engine bay with the motor out.
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  #119  
Old 02-05-2017, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foreste2002 View Post
I plan to do this in the near future....I have had the euro lights on several of my cars and this time I think I want to stick with the US headlight assemblies but change out the sealed beam units to the Hella H4 units. I keep toying with the idea of putting the yellow side markers as turn signals on the outside of the surrounds and then putting driving lights were the US turn signals are mounted.

Keep up the great info/work...I think I will share some pics tomorrow of my engine bay with the motor out.
Thanks I would love to see the photos.
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  #120  
Old 02-05-2017, 07:12 PM
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I still don't understand why the upper right headlight protrudes. It is nearly a 1/2" further out than the left one. The framework that holds the headlight buckets looks the same on both sides with no evidence of damage. I looked under the fender on both sides and they look exactly the same. I can see no evidence of damage repair. The only difference I can see is that the center portion of the right framework appears to be stuck out more than the left side. I have thought of pushing it in but worry about being able to adjust the headlights. Kind of baffling.









I did have time to polish the front bumper where the license plate had been. Looks much better.




Now it was time to work on the trunk. Due to the bad trunk seal, I am sure water was leaking into the trunk. The worst area was under the spare tire. I used my angle grinder to clean up both that area, the lower area on the left side and a couple of small spots of surface rust on the upper area. It was all surface rust as all of the metal was solid. There are drain holes in both of those lower areas and there was an additional small hole that had a rubber plug in it on the right side lower area.
















Once I was finished grinding, I cleaned up the entire trunk area. With everything clean, I applied the POR15 to the rusty areas. I don't plan on painting the entire trunk floor as I have a carpet pad coming for it.











The trunk seal was the next job. I masked off the entire area before proceeding.




I test fitted the seal and it fit well. However, the test fitting showed that the seal did not want to lay in the channel on the rear rounded corners because of the tension. So I marked the seal on each side about 8" from the corner and began applying the adhesive to the rear part of the seal first. I lined up those marks on both sides and carefully inserted the seal in the channel. Once I had the rear part in place, I let it set for a bit before installing the rest of the seal. That procedure worked well.







One of the things I removed from the trunk yesterday prior to working on it was the took kit. I used the "delicate" setting on the washer to wash the tool bag. The tools are in great shape.









I plan on installing the hood pad tomorrow. I have new front shocks and the exhaust to do next. Once those items are done, I will be installing carpet.

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