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#1
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My 1971 280 SE - buy it - rust and rebuilt evereything. S. Cal.
I'm selling the car that someone else put way too much money into. I bought it for the engine, I no longer intend to use the engine so I don't want the car. Drives great, horrible rust. Read the list of replaced things and if you have any interest let me know.
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/6130760450.html I have it listed for $7000. I don't expect to get that. Although I do wonder what it costs to rebuild an M130 engine today... and transmission... and injection pump... and .... |
#2
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Too bad about the clearcoat. It looks like a great driver. Is it not a good candidate to drive the wheels off it rain or shine?
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Past mb: '73 450sl, '81 280slc stick, '71 250, '72 250c, '70 250c, '79 280sl, '73 450sl, parted: '75 240d stick, '69 280s, '73 450slc, '72 450sl, |
#3
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The problem with a 108/109 is at this point if the rust has started, driving the wheels off it you'll get 3-4 years before the rust consumes the unibody making it unsafe to drive. That's what happened with mine. It'd be better to rescue it now, stop the rust (assuming the unibody is still sound) and then restore it. Especially if it's mechanically sorted, half the work is already done.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#4
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Quote:
The seller in Portland didn't want me to drive it to Los Angeles. I had it shipped. I drive it around and don't worry much, but I imagine in a bad accident it would fold in half. |
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