Changing carb engine to FI in 1971 280S

[ROLLGUY]

I am helping a friend swap in a Fuel Injected 2.8 engine (was carbureted) into his W108. I have the engine in, but would like some information and photos on the following items:
Coolant hose routing and size (injection pump heater?)
Fuel pump hoses and routing
Where does the temp gauge Sensor go?
Vacuum hose routing
PCV hose routing
How to time the ignition
Where does the remote P S reservoir mount? (Had res on top of the pump of carb engine)
Oil filter housing check valves location
There may be other things, but the above items will help get a lot accomplished.
Thanks, Rich

[ScooterABC]

If you want to come take pics under the hood of my 1971 280SE you are welcome to. I don't know any of the answers. I'm in Altadena.

[ROLLGUY]

Originally Posted by ScooterABC

If you want to come take pics under the hood of my 1971 280SE you are welcome to. I don't know any of the answers. I'm in Altadena.

Could you take some and email them to me? wvobenzs@yahoo.com
Thanks, Rich

[ROLLGUY]

When I removed the starter, I seem to remember two small terminals, one on each side of the larger center one. When I installed the starter, I only see one small terminal on the left (outboard) side of the center. I have three small wires, and I doubt all three go on the one terminal. Does anyone know where the three wires go?

[300decel]

Not sure about the starter wiring, but if the rest of the harness is in similar shape I'd keep several good fire extinguishers handy.

[JMela]

Originally Posted by 300decel

Not sure about the starter wiring, but if the rest of the harness is in similar shape I'd keep several good fire extinguishers handy.

No kidding. Fresh terminal nut shows somebody has been in there before.

[ROLLGUY]

Obviously no help with the starter wiring, so how about this. I found these parts in a bucket that was eluding me until today. I see how they mostly hook up, but I am not sure where a couple connections go. The unit that is mounted to the engine mount arm looks like a check valve or regulator of some kind. I don't know if the line not hooked to anything goes to one of the hard lines going back to the tank, or not. The outboard side of the fuel filter is not going to anything, and I assume it gets connected to one of the hard lines (pressure from pump?). There is another fitting on top of the pipe connected to the IP, and I don't know what connects to it. I am planning to get the hoses rebuilt. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rich

[ROLLGUY]

I was able to find a wiring diagram, and get the starter hooked up.

Coolant hose routing and size (injection pump heater?) -Done
Fuel pump hoses and routing. - Engine bay hoses done, still need fuel pump
Where does the temp gauge Sensor go? -Done
Vacuum hose routing. -Done
PCV hose routing. -Done
How to time the ignition - Still don't know
Where does the remote P S reservoir mount? -Done
Oil filter housing check valves location. -Done

I need to figure out how to hook up the cold start valve, and also the solenoid on the back of the IP (not sure what it is for)
Also, I have two distributors, and they appear to have opposite rotation. Is the carb'd distributor different from the one used on the F.I.?(opposite rotation).
Anyone know what PSI fuel pump is needed for this engine? I am planning on going aftermarket. Would an inline F.I. pump made for your basic common rail injection system be too much pressure?

[ROLLGUY]

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I was able to find a wiring diagram, and get the starter hooked up.

Coolant hose routing and size (injection pump heater?) -Done
Fuel pump hoses and routing. - Engine bay hoses done, still need fuel pump
Where does the temp gauge Sensor go? -Done
Vacuum hose routing. -Done
PCV hose routing. -Done
How to time the ignition - Still don't know
Where does the remote P S reservoir mount? -Done
Oil filter housing check valves location. -Done

I need to figure out how to hook up the cold start valve, and also the solenoid on the back of the IP (not sure what it is for)
Also, I have two distributors, and they appear to have opposite rotation. Is the carb'd distributor different from the one used on the F.I.?(opposite rotation).
Anyone know what PSI fuel pump is needed for this engine? I am planning on going aftermarket. Would an inline F.I. pump made for your basic common rail injection system be too much pressure?

I found out both distributors turn clockwise viewing from the top. However, the vac advance on one turns the plate CW, the other CCW. That made me think they turn opposite direction. Still have not figured out the cold start valve, or the fuel pump.

Anyone know the PSI the fuel pump should be rated at? I would like to use an aftermarket pump, but don't know which one to get. I assume a common rail fuel pump would have too high PSI, and a basic carb pump too little.

[ROLLGUY]

Well that is about it. It seems to run on the fuel from the cold start valve, and then dies, and then not very well. I have a feeling I have the injection pump not timed correctly. Does anyone know where to find the info on injection pump timing? I may have the IP 180 degrees out of time. When I pulled the pump, I put it at TDC. I observed where the mark on the splined shaft was, and it lined up with the mark on the body (same as the Diesel). However, I had it on TDC of the compression stroke (again, I am thinking Diesel). I thought about it today when trying to get it started that it may need to be set at TDC on the intake stroke (duh Rich). I have a feeling an IP removal is in my future. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Rich

[ROLLGUY]

Thanks again Arthur for the link! https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Fuel/FIPTiming

It seems I got the right stroke, but did not set the crank at 20 deg. ATDC. I will be pulling the IP soon.....Rich

[ROLLGUY]

I pulled the pump and timed it correctly. After hooking up the cold start valve, it seems to run only on that fuel, and then sputters and dies. I loosened the hard line nuts on the IP, and only number one and six emit fuel. I did some research on the Pagoda forum, and found out how to remove the check valves on top of the IP. I bought a brake line that had the proper thread (M12X1.0), and made a puller. It worked great. I found that none of the valves were clogged, and that they all sealed properly. With all the valves out, ant the fuel pump turned on, fuel just flows out of all six holes freely. I put #1&6 valves and hard lines back on, and started the engine several times, running on the cold start valve fuel. The rest of the valves were bone dry. I am not sure exactly what I did, but I got #3 to emit fuel. The engine still won't run, and I am not sure what else to do. I suspect there is something clogging the remaining barrels preventing them from working. Anyone have any ideas short of pulling the IP again and taking it to a shop for repair?

[ROLLGUY]

I finally got it to run! The problem was the plungers stuck in the barrels. I pulled the pump, removed the end and side covers, and figured out how it all works. I was able to free up the stuck plungers with PB Blaster and a little bit of working them up and down. I made sure the rack moved freely, and put it all back together. About the third time starting it on the cold start fuel, it stayed running. It revs up just fine, and idles great too!. The car is now ready to put back on the road! That brings this thread to a close. A special thanks to Arthur Dalton for your contribution.......Rich

[686point3]

Originally Posted by 300decel

Not sure about the starter wiring, but if the rest of the harness is in similar shape I'd keep several good fire extinguishers handy.

R O F L M F A O,

kind of the direction I was thinking.
I wouldn't worry about the engine install, if the car will burn down eventually anyway....

[ROLLGUY]

Originally Posted by 686point3

R O F L M F A O,

kind of the direction I was thinking.
I wouldn't worry about the engine install, if the car will burn down eventually anyway....

The above comment is one reason why I don't hang around here often.