1976' /8 240D -> M117E55 swap with questions

[2.5-10]

hello all,

been a long time since I've been on here, but I have started up my /8 V8 swap again after a three-year hiatus and have run into a couple of snags and now have questions about both the M117 and its accessories as well as the /8 body and its interaction with the engine and 722.3 trans.



the M117E55 valve covers each have a breather on them, but the one of the passenger (right) side is now obstructed by my EFI fuel rail.

I have a couple of options here but I don't know whats acceptable, best or worst.
1.) plug it, and just run the drivers side breather
2.) plug it, TIG in a new fitting up front in a non-obstructed area (costs most)
3.) other?

the next bit of issue is my Idle Control Valve. I am running Megasquirt 2 and I intend to use the hot film idle valve from the 560 donor motor's CIS setup, but there are no big enough vacuum ports on the inlet manifold for this.
1.) use the brake booster vacuum port for ICV, and tap the booster in to a smaller vacuum port.
2.) remove intake manifold, drill and tap a new fitting (may ruin the brand new gaskets)
3.) run without an Idle valve?
4.) other?


As long as I get the firmware loaded onto my MS computer and I can get my automatic transmission hooked up to a cooler so it doesn't burn out when I go to start it, this should be able to start soon, although there is a LONG road ahead.

does anyone know the fitting size on the ATF cooler lines? I have a photo of the metric OD if that helps.




any advice/thoughts/suggestions/criticism welcome.

full album here for the curious:
https://picasaweb.google.com/116577158427761277177/8V8Swap?authuser=0&feat=directlink

[Mike D]

I reworked the plumbing on my M117 for the breather. I cut the plastic tubing, twisted it to face forward, added a section of copper in apx. 90 degree bend and then used the cut off bit of tubing to plug into the upright air intake coupler (where the hose originally fitted).

[801mbz]

Mega work.

[2.5-10]

Originally Posted by Mike D

I reworked the plumbing on my M117 for the breather. I cut the plastic tubing, twisted it to face forward, added a section of copper in apx. 90 degree bend and then used the cut off bit of tubing to plug into the upright air intake coupler (where the hose originally fitted).

can you elaborate more on which original M117 port you used for that? I ddn't think of using a T on that line but it would make sense.

Originally Posted by 801mbz

Mega work.

thanks!

[2.5-10]

is that fitting M16x1.5?

[DieselPaul]

What is an M117 E55? I thought E55s used M119s, and I've never seen a 5.5L M117.

I would not plug a breather either.

[2.5-10]

the E55 is not the car it is from its a displacement denotator for Mercedes

M117 engine 5.5 liters = M117E55

M119E50 would be a 5.0 M119

M113E55 is the 5.4 liter AMG motor you're referring to.

[dirtyharry]

nothing makes it "E55" it has nothing to do with modern E class cars, its an m117.96X so lets call it that. also that brake booster relocation probably not the best idea, as it completely messes with the geometry of the pedal. also why convert to that style fuel rail when D jetronic rails would suffice/and or they run 39lb/hr injectors which is plenty of fuel. as far as the manifold is concerned, its total **** for megasquirt, the plenum is small and the throttle body position hard to get at. you should source a 4.5L manifold which I think will work, the runners may be a little mismatched but other then that I think is a straight bolt in. I could be wrong.

[2.5-10]

Originally Posted by dirtyharry

nothing makes it "E55" it has nothing to do with modern E class cars, its an m117.96X so lets call it that. also that brake booster relocation probably not the best idea, as it completely messes with the geometry of the pedal. also why convert to that style fuel rail when D jetronic rails would suffice/and or they run 39lb/hr injectors which is plenty of fuel. as far as the manifold is concerned, its total **** for megasquirt, the plenum is small and the throttle body position hard to get at. you should source a 4.5L manifold which I think will work, the runners may be a little mismatched but other then that I think is a straight bolt in. I could be wrong.

its a 117E55. nothing to do with an E class.

booster relocation is solid, straight shot and poses no problems. the setup is from a 1994 540i and is designed to run remotely with a long rod from the pedal.

I have D-Jet rails, decided not to use them for many reasons.

I have a BMW TPS on my throttle body, wasn't an issue.



getting back to my questions, the whole reason I started this thread -- I need to know the diameter and pitch for the AT cooler lines and the rear port on the manifold originally tapped for the brake booster vacuum line.

so far as I can tell the AT lines at M16x1.5 and the booster one is M14x2.

[dirtyharry]

Originally Posted by 2.5-10

the E55 is not the car it is from its a displacement denotator for Mercedes

M117 engine 5.5 liters = M117E55

this is totally incorrect, the only E is for (for "Einspritzen") means the vehicle's engine is equipped with fuel injection.

The letter M before the motor number has to do with its designation. its a German word for MOTOR, just like with the 240D's original motor having and "OM" in front of it making it an "OIL MOTOR", its an m117.96X get it straight this isn't some Bmw where you can just stick an Entwicklung code in front of it.

as far as your problems are concerned, just loop the trans lines for now, you're gunna have a hard time finding those fittings or any adapters locally. take the manifold off, I think your gunna have to drill and tap the plenum as K jet has no provision large enough for an AAV, and I wouldn't block the breather.

[2.5-10]

the booster should be able to operate off of the smaller CIS vacuum line on the top of the manifold, so I will run the ICV to the old booster port on the manifold.

if that isn't working for whatever reason, I will remove the mani and tap a new fitting in for the IACV.

you can call the engine whatever you like, I am sticking with M117e55 since its a Motor 117 fuel injected and 5,5 liters.

I suppose looping the cooler lines would suffice for starting it.

the 722.350? I think thats what I've got, really hard to tell is measured via dipstick hot or cold, running or not running? I think my old 190D was cold but running.

[DieselPaul]

Any 722 I've ever been around was measured at temperature.

[GGR]

For idle air, And if your engine is/was equipped with an EGR valve, you could use the EGR port in the plenum or connect it to the pipe that goes to that port if you don't want to take your intake apart.

[2.5-10]

unfortunately I put a block off plate on that thing, and the clearance to remove it with a hex key is too small. derp. It's still an option I have considered however. certainly makes the most sense.

thanks for the trans fluid measure spec, appreciated.

[Tomguy]

Originally Posted by 2.5-10

you can call the engine whatever you like, I am sticking with M117e55 since its a Motor 117 fuel injected and 5,5 liters.

FWIW, we're trying to educate you on why you are wrong. First off, Mercedes never used such a designation. Second, there is no such thing as a 5.5 liter M117 engine. There are 4.5, 5.0 and 5.6 liter M117 engines (as far as MB is concerned, give or take a few CCs), but no 5.5 liter ones. So saying "M117e55" makes no sense in more ways than one It makes it sound like you're swapping in a later E55 engine and are misusing the M117 designation. If you refuse to listen to why you are incorrect on this, the forum will be a little reluctant to help on other advice, because this is one of the more simple things in this thread.

You will need to remove the EGR plug you put in or tap the manifold for a reliable vac source for an idle air valve. You would not want to use the brake booster source or anything too close to the brake booster because this may weaken the braking system's power source AND muck up the supply to the engine under some conditions (like stop and go traffic or crawling congestion).

As far as the trans cooler, I assume you will want it functioning when the time comes to use it. As such, here are some options for you (and this is assuming your trans cooler is built into the radiator):
1) You can take the radiator with you to a local hydraulic and/or transmission shop (the best bet may be a CAT service place or similar). They will have the proper fittings and be able to custom make any hose for you.
2) You can use a stand-alone transmission cooler. This may be the easier option. Have the local hydraulic shop make the hoses you need with the original fittings to connect to the transmission end with whatever fittings the new cooler uses on the other end.