W115 Needed Electrical Expert 220 Ignition
 

I can jump the Solenoid Hot to the Trigger wire and start the car . Otherwise there is 0 Volts at the trigger wire . On ignition . That's why the starter will not engage . I took a look to remove the ignition switch . Not just the plug off the switch . I wanted to remove the entire unit from the instrument panel . I found a C Clamp with a 10mm bolt . Removed that . Removed the key end trim bezel . All I can think of is the c clamp needs to be bent apart to remove the switch ? I stopped because I did not want any damage . I'm now routing wires into the interior and placing in a on /off for the trigger jump . I doubt there's anyway to use a screwdriver to remove the 3 screws so I can take the switch off . I could get the switch out . But am positive something would get damaged . Anyone ever take a ig switch out ? Thanks . BTW : The ig switch is a guess . I don't know if the switch is the actual problem or not . No shops around here will work on this car .

Do you have continuity from the "start" terminal on the starter to the corresponding terminal on the ignition switch?

Multiple postings for the same problem are not helpful.

Have you tried putting your foot on the brake, putting the key in the crank position while moving the shift lever? If it cranks the problem is in the shifter, it's bushings or the neutral safety switch.

Manual transmission according to an earlier post, hence the caution regarding multiple threads.

IG Switch
 

Sorry about that . I figured my old post was burned out .

I don't know . Since I can't get the ignition switch out , all I can do is check the purple trigger wire .
I do have a new ignition switch . But as mentioned . I have not figured out a way to remove the switch from the R of instrument panel . There's a c-clamp . And the key side of the ig switch is in the instr panel . I can't pull it to the R.

On a more positive note . I ran two wires from the starter to and old wooden box . And mounted a toggle switch . Pretty smooth with that deal .

Auto
 

I'm guessing that's for an Auto Tranny ?

Yes
 

It says I joined in 2005 . Apparently so as I did have a Mercedes around then with a bad f. pump

I would use a momentary switch instead of a toggle. Less chance of accidentally activating the starter with the engine running.

Something such as these:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/tools---equipment-16488/diagnostic-16546/remote-start-switches-19563

or :

Momentary Switch | eBay

The first ones I listed are handy to keep around but the second ones can be easily installed in the box you made.

Ace Hardware is probably the easiest place to find the second switch.

http://www.acehardware.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=momentary%20switch&origkw=momentary+switch&f=Taxonomy/ACE/19541496&sr=1

Ignition Switch
 

Have you ever tried to remove the ignition switch ? Perhaps the clamp needs to be spread . Thanks yes Ace does have a good selection . This one is ok as long as I'm the operator . My main concern was to get a switch that could hold the Voltage and use a large enough wire gauge . Once I get the switch out , I'll know more

Ignition Switch how to remove it .
 

I looked on you tube . Looks to be a lot of people out there with the same problem . The videos show a person working on a switch . I can't find any videos of someone actually removed the switch from the instrument panel . I'm thinking now that the steering lock can be or part of the problem .

Have you removed the instrument cluster to get at it from that way? Here's what the book says about removing the switch:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...9&d=1506285258

Yes Thanks
 

You've got a nice manual there . I can touch the screws . I'm going to saw a screwdriver blade and weld a "T" to the back . I imagine the screws are lightly oxidized to the pot metal threads . I can't get any forward pressure on the screws . I think the screws will crack with a T Handle shorty . John

That's a lot of effort to get at those screws!

I've got a inexpensive auto parts store screw driver that's bent 90 degrees on each end, with Phillips on one end and a flat blade on the other. It works great for stuff like this job. I might also be tempted to try a 1/4 inch ratchet with a Phillips bit on it, if there's room to work it. If you've got easy access to a auto parts or home improvement store you might find a inexpensive solution. But I like using my welder too, so I won't knock another for making their own tools!

I've poked around behind a W115 dash a few times, but not for the ign. switch. Looks like an "easy" one if you can get the screws out without too much trouble.

I jumped at the opportunity to pick up printed copies of the W114/W115 chassis service books. They come in handy for oddball info. like this switch removal/install procedure. I hope it was helpful to you.

Thanks It is fixed
 

Yes it's fixed . I just cut a cheap flat blade screwdriver and welded a tiny cross brace . Like a Drill Chuck . Worked like a charm . I could hear the factory "Crack" sound . I work on vintage stereo gear and you have to "crack" the screws . As you know . I installed the new switch and it was tight . The old beast turned right over . I wish I could post a pic of the tool but it ended up falling past a heater air tube and is lost .

Yes Ratchets are the best . Just the cheap ones will do . But if you are torquing from behind . Not pushing and turning . It would be hard and sloppy.
Probably not enough tolerance to fit it in there .

With the old stereo gear , you can tell when people use the wrong tip and torque method . The head becomes damaged . Then out come the vice grips . I knew in advance I could never put a set of V Grips behind a Merc Ignition switch .

Thanks . I appreciate you copying me the image out of the manual . That was a great visual explanation .

Congrats. Glad you didn't go through the trouble of pulling the locking mechanism.