mighty vacuum connections for door locks

[huffandpuff]

76 280c no door locks , seats , trunk, and gas tank vacuum works . trying to find correct connection points in the lines mounted on firewall . to connect a mighty v[IMG]o954jpg[/IMG]ac

[ScooterABC]

Originally Posted by huffandpuff

76 280c no door locks , seats , trunk, and gas tank vacuum works . trying to find correct connection points in the lines mounted on firewall . to connect a mighty

If the trunk lock works then the most likely point of failure is inside the passenger door. There is no actuator in the driver door - that's where the master switch is, which seems to be working. My recollection of the vacuum diagram is that you don't need to do anything on the firewall (given that you have most things working) and the lines to the door, trunk, gas are under the carpet on the passenger front footwell. You should be able to find some Y connectors (or T connectors) there. One note- the gas lock is lock only. There is no unlock vacuum line to the gas tank. If vacuum fails that means that it will always be unlocked (thinks to a spring). I would bet dollars to donuts that your problem is the passenger door actuator.

There is a lot of useful information on this at the diesel giant website - take a look there for tutorials. They have an example removing the door panel from a 114 coupe for example.

[meltedpanda]

Scooter is correct , yes check out the door- there should be a large vacuum port thing that has several lines to it , R/R is easy.

[vwnate1]

Simply by replacing the several under carpet and under hood rubber 3 and 4 way vacuum connectors plus the yellow one way vacuum valve I got my central locking to hold vacuum from 2 minutes to 1/2 hour, I need to check the trunk and fuel flap elements plus the rubber grommet in the vacuum reservoir next .

It just takes time with the Mity Vac tool .

[Tomas7]

Originally Posted by vwnate1

Simply by replacing the several under carpet and under hood rubber 3 and 4 way vacuum connectors plus the yellow one way vacuum valve I got my central locking to hold vacuum from 2 minutes to 1/2 hour, I need to check the trunk and fuel flap elements plus the rubber grommet in the vacuum reservoir next .

It just takes time with the Mity Vac tool .

Where's the best place to find these vacuum connectors, FLAPS?

[Diseasel300]

Originally Posted by Tomas7

Where's the best place to find these vacuum connectors, FLAPS?

LOL! Definitely not. You can try, but be prepared for lots of confusion when you ask and a startlingly high cost when they find what you're looking for but have to order it in.

Go on this forum's sponsor site, the dealership, ebay, Amazon, that place in Arizona, etc and get yourself a collection of Y and + profile connectors. For the single connectors you can use cut sections of vacuum hose which you CAN get at the FLAPS.

Replace every single rubber vacuum connector you can get your hands on. Pay attention to any restrictors, dashpots, or orifices you find and reinstall them where they go.

Replacing the rotten rubber is one of the best things you can do for your car, especially if it's K-Jet.

[vwnate1]

What he said ! .

I assume all here are familiar with the Mercedes Benz Classic Center ? .

The right stuff, almost as cheaply as regular FLAPS and it _always_ fits and is _NEVER_ crap .

They'll ship to your front door too .

Just to - day, after I replaced the left rear door's vacuum element , I decided to disconnect the under hood yellow vacuum one way valve to test the trunk vacuum reservoir ~ ? remember when I said how important it is for the rubber hose bits to be a serious PIA to remove ? .

The two 1" long rubber bits between said yellow valve and the two yellow plastic pipes sticking out of the firewall (one is for the central locking, the other goes directly to the vacuum reservoir in the trunk), I noticed I could pull the valve out without twisting the rubber hose bits although the other end that attaches to the yellow plastic pipes, required a strong twist and pull .

I looked and Lo ! those two hose bits were 1/4" (oops) , I replaced them with proper 5/32" hose bits and after several hours the system still held vacuum, I'll know in the morning if it held overnight .

This proves my point : the devil really is in the details .

I didn't count how many 3 Vs. 4 way rubber connectors you'll need , I might have the correct Mercedes P/N if you need it .

Needless to say I am stoked to have this working again after about one year of it leaking down in 5 minutes .

Pretty much everything on German cars can be taken apart farther than you can get parts for, cleaning, greasing and adjusting are your by words for having a reliable and inexpen$ve old Mercedes to drive .

This is why they get called money pits : they're not, they just require more fiddling than other cars do and always have, since new .

BTW : I have the nifty brass construction Harbor Freight vacuum tool, it has never held vacuum since it was new, making it useless to check vacuum systems for leaks .

Your central locking should hold vacuum for several days if not an entire week after being parked .