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#1
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W115 FLUID CHOICE
Hello. My car is 1974 w115 230.4 manual transmission. I will change the transmission and differential oil. The car manual says ATF II for transmission and hypoid SAE 90 gear oil for differential. However, some friends recommend hypoid 90 gear oil for the transmission and hypoid 140 gear oil for the differential. I got confused and would like to ask you. Thanks in advance for any experience or recommendation.
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#2
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As for the differential - changing to a heavier weight sometimes reduces noise they might be making. I'd stick with what the book says in most cases though (especially if you live in a cold climate)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Thanks a lot. I always thought that how can another fluid type be suitable not declared in the manual officially. So, I am thinking in the right way about the transmission. Probably I will prefer Mobil ATF 220. After an extensive research, I released that ATF Dexron II equals to ATF II generally, Mobil uses the title "220" instead of Dexron II.
Regarding the differential, I renewed the oil last year. I didn't know the previous fluid type, but stuck to the manual and changed it with Castrol Hypoid SAE90. Now, I will change the fluid anyway since a very low noise is coming from the back, although I don't exactly know the actual source of the noise. It is highly possible that the noise is not coming from the differential since this humming like noise is not constant, it is coming and going rarely. Nevertheless, I want to eliminate the possibility of differential. The winter time does not go under 5 degree. So, does SAE140 sound better in any case? |
#4
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140 in the diff is going to reduce fuel economy dramatically and possibly prevent proper oil circulation due to it's thickness, use the 90.
For fluid flow, have a look at my posts here https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-performance-paddock/395119-differential-cover-testing-gale-banks.html https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/391894-717-400-getrag-5-speed-idle-noise.html |
#5
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General service announcement:-
Historically "oil threads" have been a problem on this forum - so I'd like to remind everyone to chill out if it kicks off!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
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If it is a droning noise then an oil change is a good place to start - though I'd also look at the condition of the rubbers on the subframes (plural for your car I believe), the engine mounts, the flex discs on the propshaft, and the centre propshaft bearing. I assume it isn't tyre noise?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#7
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Yes, correct, the subframes are plural, but completely changed with the new Meyle ones only 3 months ago. The flex discs and 2 center bearings of the propshaft are also changed with the new ones. The flexible discs and one of the bearings are original. The other bearing is Febi, but a very old manufacture, quality is good. Engine mounts are also Meyle and new. Tyres are only 2000 miles and continental. So, I really get confused regarding the noise. The biggest question is, it is not actually droning and not constant.
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#8
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#9
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After replacing resilient parts the propshaft often sits in an awkward position - may be a bit squashed or compressed. This can cause weird driveline noises. The best thing to do is to loosen the centre propshaft big nut and the centre bearing mount. You then need to bounce the car on each of its four corners like you are testing shock absorbers and then roll the car backwards and forward for a few meters. Without lifting the car crawl under the car and tighten the nuts you've just loosened. This usually fixes this kind of trouble,
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#10
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It is difficult to diagnose noise remotely. Does the noise sound like a dry roller skate bearing or a noise that changes pitch while driving? Is the noise tied directly to wheel speed or drive shaft speed? Drive shaft speed would be roughly 3x of wheel speed. Don't just throw oil at it, diagnose. |
#11
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I wouldn't bother deviating from what Mercedes said to put in it.
ATF3 superseded 2, and 2 is basically non-existent in the US. All my manual gearbox Mercedes that call for an ATF fill I put Dex3 in because that is what is available with no problems. As for the diff, it doesn't make any sense to put way thicker oil in just to do it. Straight 90 can be tough to find sometimes, I put 75/90 or 80/90 in mine with no issues. I think eventually Mercedes spec'ed an 85/90 which you can buy from the dealer but its fairly expensive, I only run that in my more expensive cars.
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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i |
#12
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Coming back to your method, it is not so difficult for me to apply what you describe. I will do it at the weekend and let you know regarding the result. |
#13
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I agree you, I won't change the dif oil before the diagnose. |
#14
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#15
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Parts that turn at drive shaft speed, like drive shaft center bearings, differential pinion bearings, output bearings of transmission generally start to make noise at 5 MPH. Your other post speaks of both center bearings being changed. A center bearing attaches to the drive shaft and is bolted to the body. It sounds like you changed bearings / bushings on the end of the drive shafts, these won't make noise. Quote:
In cases like this, inspect everything you can and drive the car until the noise gets worse, something fails. |
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