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  #1  
Old 01-08-2019, 09:28 AM
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Fan Blade Help

Hello All,


I am in the process of replacing a Front Crank Seal. Lots, and I mean Lots of parts need to be removed to gain access to the Seal. The Fan Blade is one of those parts. It is the metal 6 blade version. While it is off, I would like to restore it to its original Factory finish. The present color of it is somewhere 2-tone; I see patches of silver and patches of charcoal grey.

Can anyone here tell me what the original finish should be? I guess some of the choices could be bright silver metallic, matte silver metallic, light matte grey, and matte dark grey. I'm hoping I have the correct color 'rattle can' here in the garage.

See Attached Images. Appreciate your help!

Mark
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Fan Blade Help-fan-2.jpg   Fan Blade Help-fan-1.jpg   Fan Blade Help-fan-3.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2019, 10:31 AM
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I'm going to guess this is on your '78 W123 and if so then the original was "semi-gloss" black for the blades and natural finish for the clutch.

To get a good quality finish you need to chemically strip or bead blast the blades.
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Old 01-08-2019, 10:43 AM
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Hi Mike,


Thanks for the reply. Correct on the 78 CE. I have already cleaned the fan with lacquer thinner, then followed up with Simple Green. I could take them down to bare metal with a brass wire wheel, but I don't want to polish them or get the metal too smooth. If I had access to a bead blaster, that would be a good route to go, but for simplicity I may leave it the way it is. It is definitely clean enough to prime/ paint. I will give it a final pre-paint cleaner prior to laying on the color.



When I really take a close look at the blades, I am seeing some matte charcoal shades. I guess that time and the elements could make a semi-gloss black fade to matte charcoal.


Mark



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
I'm going to guess this is on your '78 W123 and if so then the original was "semi-gloss" black for the blades and natural finish for the clutch.

To get a good quality finish you need to chemically strip or bead blast the blades.
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Old 01-08-2019, 11:01 AM
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I've had good results with Eastwood products

Their extreme chassis black in satin goes on nicely from a spray can and for a single component paint turns out to be fairly scratch resistant. The finish is quite similar to their "underhood black" solution that you might also want to consider.

There is actually a specific black colour code for the W123 - but I can't remember the number - that was used for the boot / trunk area for example but I don't think that slightly dark grey black was used on the engine parts
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Old 01-08-2019, 11:17 AM
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Hi Stretch,


Funny, I was just on the Eastwood sight looking at paints and saw a pop-up on my screen saying "Peach Parts - Reply to Thread...".


I'm looking at the paints I have on-hand right now - Rust-Oleum High Performance Enamel in Black Semi Gloss and Rust-Oleum Flat Protective Enamel in Black. I've also got some VHT Gloss Black. I just want to get it 'close' to Factory with what supplies I have on hand. Touching up the fan is a diversion. I've got the Crank Seal and Sleeve, Balancer, Water Pump, Bypass Hose, Belts, Radiator Drain & Removal, and 400 Nm Bolt staring me in the face. Since the weather is 60F, I thought I better paint before the temps go back down to 30!


Cheers,
Mark



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Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
I've had good results with Eastwood products

Their extreme chassis black in satin goes on nicely from a spray can and for a single component paint turns out to be fairly scratch resistant. The finish is quite similar to their "underhood black" solution that you might also want to consider.

There is actually a specific black colour code for the W123 - but I can't remember the number - that was used for the boot / trunk area for example but I don't think that slightly dark grey black was used on the engine parts
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Old 01-08-2019, 11:22 AM
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The grey could be the original primer or just an accumulation of 40+ years of sand, coolant, road grime, belt debris, etc.
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Old 01-08-2019, 11:32 AM
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As Stretch mentioned the "Chassis Black" is a good match but it's considerably pricier than the Krylon. I don't mind spending money to restore my cars but I economize where I can.
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Old 01-08-2019, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmiller View Post
The Fan Blade is one of those parts. It is the metal 6 blade version. While it is off, I would like to restore it to its original Factory finish.
Can anyone here tell me what the original finish should be?

The aluminum fan blades were supplied unfinished, natural. Given the extent of weathering/corrosion that they experience, it seems that there was not even a clear finish applied.
One could choose whatever finish (or none) that suits one's fancy.
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Old 01-08-2019, 12:44 PM
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My wife wants PINK. ......NOT.....


After swabbing the fan down with a good bath of Wash Solvent, the aluminum base metal is much more apparent. If I decided to leave it natural Aluminum, and with all the opposing angles and surfaces, I'd spend the rest of the afternoon wire-wheeling it down to spotless metal. I'm ready to paint and move on to the real job lying ahead. (Although I do have a couple of cans of Eastwood Nyalic.)


I also have handy some Eastwood High Temp Silver Exhaust Paint, which dries to a Matte Finish. It says it needs a sequence of rising temps to fully cure and harden. Would just letting it air dry at room temperature harden it up? I sure wouldn't want it to remain 'soft'.


Without stirring up a controversy (ie - 'pissing contest'), there seems to be a difference of opinion on color/ finish (natural aluminum vs. semi-gloss black). Pretty opposing opinions! I just want to get it as close to showroom as possible. As a Concours guy, the judges would go ape-s**t if I chose poorly. That could cost me 3 valuable points.



Additional Thoughts?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
The aluminum fan blades were supplied unfinished, natural. Given the extent of weathering/corrosion that they experience, it seems that there was not even a clear finish applied.
One could choose whatever finish (or none) that suits one's fancy.
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Old 01-08-2019, 01:55 PM
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Sounds like you're predisposed to work with the options you have at hand, but if you ever decide to go with what would be the original factory finish of raw aluminum casting there are a couple products to accomplish that.

You could check out Flitz - Aluminum Pre-Clean or their Flitx - Industrial Strength Metal Cleaner. Or for a somewhat more "professional grade" product some people prefer Aluminox Aluminum Brightener and its companion Oxi X Oxidation Blocker.


I'm waiting for my first OM606 glow plug removal challenge to test the effectiveness of their Piston Kleen Carbon Remover parts cleaner. If it works as advertised hopefully it will help release the carbon bonding that occurs on the glow plug shaft tips.

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  #11  
Old 01-08-2019, 02:44 PM
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(I see no evidence in this thread be it content or those involved in the thread so far to suggest "it will kick off" - so let's not get worried about reactions before they happen!)

I haven't seen a large number of the five blade cooling fans (like the one in the picture in post #1) but the ones I have seen have all been black - that's all I can really add to the content so far
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1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #12  
Old 01-08-2019, 04:11 PM
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I guess my humor didn't shine through. Everyone here seems very civil. I was only joking about things getting controversial. Just being cautious, that's all. I have seen some people in other threads going 0-60 in about 3 seconds flat! Without brakes to stop.

I checked the FSM for images of the fan blades. While the pix are only B&W, a couple of them showed partial shots of the blades. The fan looked pretty contrasty (my word) compared to some of the obvious black and dark grey components. I'm inclined to go with silver or natural aluminum finish



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(I see no evidence in this thread be it content or those involved in the thread so far to suggest "it will kick off" - so let's not get worried about reactions before they happen!)
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Last edited by mmiller; 01-08-2019 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:19 PM
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Appreciate the info. I have used Flitz in the past for polishing smaller objects. I may order some of the cleaners after I look them up and see what suits me best.


Good luck with your glow plugs. I've always been a 'gas man' so never experienced any of the challenges inherent to Diesels.



Quote:
Originally Posted by if6was9 View Post

You could check out Flitz - Aluminum Pre-Clean or their Flitx - Industrial Strength Metal Cleaner. Or for a somewhat more "professional grade" product some people prefer Aluminox Aluminum Brightener and its companion Oxi X Oxidation Blocker.


I'm waiting for my first OM606 glow plug removal challenge to test the effectiveness of their Piston Kleen Carbon Remover parts cleaner. If it works as advertised hopefully it will help release the carbon bonding that occurs on the glow plug shaft tips.

Piston Kleen Carbon Remover
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  #14  
Old 01-08-2019, 08:18 PM
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You could sand and polish it. Haha.

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  #15  
Old 01-09-2019, 07:06 AM
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That's not entirely out of the question. As my blade stands, It's about 3/4 of the way there right now. With the Aluminum prep products if6was9 mentioned, I could clean the the blades and then finalize with the oxidation blocker. I'm not sure if I would want a 'shiny' finish, though. I'd be inclined to opt for a matte finish.



By the way, nice clean engine compartment you have there. Having spent hours detailing mine, I can appreciate the work you have done.


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You could sand and polish it. Haha.

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