Yesterday when I pulled my hood latch...nothing (76 280C 114)

[Tomas7]

The handle was loose. I thought that the cable had snapped but when I took the front radiator off, it wasn't.
I tightened the two nuts to adjust the cable slack. Now, it opens sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.
I guess the spring that's supposed to keep tension on the cable is worn?????
Is there a fix for this or do I need a new cable?

[Mike D]

Most likely the cable is stretched. Check the top cross piece (where the VIN number plate is riveted) for "sagging". This can cause a sticky latch. I just went through this last summer. Pretty easy fix. I believe I posted some pics of the process. I'll do a search.

If it is the cable, here are a couple of tips. The cab interior end of the cable will fit into the pull handle two ways. The "shallow" end goes into the handle first. The "deep" portion will fit but when you apply tension to the mechanism it will bind and bend the cable. BTDT.

Remove the interior end first.

Remove the pull latch (two screws) for ease of access. Remove the cable from handle. Pull the cable and grommet from the engine compartment side. There are/were hold down clamps holding the cable to the fender wells. Remove them.

Loosen the adjusting nuts on the latch end adjuster. slip the cable adjusting barrel out of the slot.

Remove the four screws holding the latch plate, you'll probably need an impact drive but you might get lucky with a GOOD large screwdriver or socket bit. Remove the cable and latch assembly from the support brace. This will give you access to remove the Cletus pin, bolt or cotter pin holding the cable to the latch. Pull the cable from the engine compartment end through the support channel.

Now's a good time to check the support brace for collapse and to give the latch mechanism a thorough clean and lube.

Forty years of opening and closing the hood can take its toll on the support brace. Easy to check. Lay a straight edge across the latch mounting holes. It should fit flush across the mounting areas and the support brace.

Re-installing is NOT just the reverse.

If your replacement cable does have not a new grommet remove the old one from the original cable. Install the grommet, in the same orientation, onto the interior end of the cable at approximately the same placement. Dish soap is a good lubricant for this task. Soaking the grommet in hot water helps.

Slide the latch end of the cable through the support bracket and around fender well obstructions. Feed the interior end of the cable through the firewall. Using the appropriate curses, fit the verplunkt grommet into the firewall hole. Toughest part of the job. Feed the cable around the park brake cable, install it into the pull handle and replace the two mounting screws.

Slip the latch end of the cable through the latch opening. Reconnect the latching mechanism to cable and install the latch mounting screws. Good snug fit on the screws, not torqued to final but enough to prevent movement. Install adjusting barrel into top support slot and hand tighten nuts.

Check your adjustment by pulling the hood release handle. You should be able to pull on the handle approximately 1" (24MM) before you feel/see the latch release begin to engage. Adjust as needed, tighten the adjusting barrel nuts.

Partially close bonnet. Not to full "double click" but engage the secondary hook. Pull release handle to ensure nothing is binding. Push down on bonnet until latch is engaged.

Check for smooth latch release, adjust as needed, replace hold down brackets and tighten the latch mounting screws. A bit of the "blue" Loc-Tite can be used on the screws.

If you have AirCon then for ease of access and to save your knuckles from the "cheese grater" remove the condensor and cooling fan brackets and slide them out of the way.

[Mike D]

Went and checked on my old posts. I didn't do a complete write-up before so they aren't much help. One thing I did re-discover is moving the fuse box out of the way clears a nice clean path for accessing the cable. I'd forgotten that part.

No big thing. Undoing the battery terminals and a couple of bolts holding down the fuse box makes it much easier and it's a good time to get the Shop-Vac and degreaser to clear out the crap which has accumulated.

'Course this is how those "half hour" jobs get stretched into a half day deal. "Ya know, while I'm RIGHT here......"

[Tomas7]

Thank you very, very, much Mike D.
Will follow your instructions, again thank you.

[Tomas7]

I was able to fix my issue. As it turned out, I had a little bit of adjustment left. Enough to tighten up my cable and make it all work.
Thanks again MikeD and your write-up should end up in the Tech Help section.
I printed it just in case, I figure in the near future as the cable stretches I will have to inevitably replace it. Thank you.

[Mike D]

Good to hear you got the problem resolved or at least delayed. Those adjusting nuts are a bit of a bugger to deal with, aren't they? You'd think the adjustment would be in a much more accessible location.

[Tomas7]

Originally Posted by Mike D

Good to hear you got the problem resolved or at least delayed. Those adjusting nuts are a bit of a bugger to deal with, aren't they? You'd think the adjustment would be in a much more accessible location.

I agree 100%

[flintg]

First a big thank you for your post.
I have been caring for my 1971 250C over 30 years and noted the latch was getting to the point of working only at full extension (and strain) so I ordered replacement and searched for how to do it.
Found you in the first hour of search.
My last repair was to replaced the front subframe rubbers. This should be a little easier.

Thanks again.
Flint G