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  #1  
Old 05-13-2019, 11:31 PM
Joe
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 92
Pagoda stripped spark plug hole!

In changing my plugs and despite being super careful, I did what I fear most...stripped a spark plug hole...it's been years since I changed them, and I can't remember if I had a problem in the past because the previous owner started a cross...the plug is holding for now, so I'm not messing with it. Given all the aluminum heads on our early MBs, has this happened to others, and if so, what did you do short of pulling the head? I've heard there is a better choice than Helicoil...appreciate any input...thanks...

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  #2  
Old 05-13-2019, 11:43 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,243
I've seen this before but it's actually not all that common. You can fix it with a thread insert or helix-coil.
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  #3  
Old 05-14-2019, 08:20 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
The "better" Helicoil versions are called Time-sert or other brand names with "sert" stuck on the end. They are not cheap.

The safest way to fix is to remove the head - people try and mess about with compressed air to try and blow swarf out of the cylinder but I think that's potentially asking for trouble. If you have an engine with an aluminium alloy head it is probably a good idea to remove it anyway and check for corrosion (especially if the engine has been sitting for a while / poor maintenance). More modern engines such as the M102/3/4 and the OM603/6 suffer from head gasket corrosion related trouble.

For my M102 I used Hylomar spray on gasket dressing which is meant to help prevent corrosion as well as help with the seal.

If you decide to remove the head follow the reverse torque order procedure as specified in the FSM - this is particularly important for an aluminium alloy head.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #4  
Old 05-14-2019, 10:08 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Los Angeles (Altadena)
Posts: 1,923
Joe, you have a lot of Pagoda comments. You might want to join sl113.org if you haven't already. Great forum.
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  #5  
Old 05-14-2019, 11:40 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,534
Define " Stripped " . Did the first thread in the hole become damaged or are all the threads worn out to the point the plug won't tighten up?
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  #6  
Old 05-14-2019, 12:33 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alhambra California
Posts: 3,129
As Stretch has said, Time Sert is the best thread repair available. It comes as a certain size kit with a special tap, installation tool, and inserts. Removing the head is best as there is a pretty good certainty that metal chips will fall into the cylinder. The other advantage to completing this repair with the head on a bench is there is a lot better chance that the insert will be installed straight and true.
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2019, 10:04 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,357
There's always the option of filling the cylinder with grease at not quite the top of the stroke and then bringing it to TDC when you're done to squeeze it out along with the metal chips (hopefully).

I've never done it myself, but it's been done.

-CTH

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