Paint job cost these days

[Squiggle Dog]

It seems like the old single stage paints would last forever and buff out. Modern paints seem like they fade and peel in short time. I definitely want to avoid clear coat when I have my car painted, which sadly will probably be Rustoleum applied with a roller or something. I can afford $300-$600 for the paint itself, but paying someone thousands of dollars to just spray the car seems insane.

Speaking of color change--on all the Mercedes I've seen, not only is the original color in the door jambs and engine compartment, but it's also going to be underneath the car and behind all the interior parts. That would drive me crazy. Actually, my car was originally dark brown and it was repainted black (with awful modern clearcoat paint) and it drives me crazy. The original single stage paint would be in better condition now than the paint they used to repaint it.

I've been driving my roommate's 1965 W111 220S while my car has been down and as I got out of it at The UPS Store, a bunch of guys in a big truck asked me if I ever thought about getting the car painted. I said, "Yeah, but who can afford it?" The guy said that they do mobile auto painting and for $600 they could put three coats of clear coat on it to make it shine like new. Ick. Clear coat does not last in the desert. He said he'd follow me back to my house and do it right in my driveway.

I pointed out all the paint loss on the driver side doors because both doors had been replaced and were originally different colors. When the car was repainted, the paint didn't adhere very well. I also pointed out all the dents. He said, "For $725 I will remove all the dents, respray the doors, and clear coat the whole car. I'll do it right now, right here in the parking lot. You'll never get such a great deal. This is the opportunity of a lifetime."

The guy was really pushy and all his buddies were chiming in, too. I told him the car doesn't even belong to me and I'd have to ask the owner, anyway. That's when the guy said, "Whatever." and got back in his truck and drove off.

I can only imagine the quality of the job if the guy had done it right there in the parking lot. Most likely he would have demanded cash up front and then sped off.

[Tony H]

The SPI clear has great reviews and is not expensive. Lots of info on their site:
https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect-paint-job

[97 SL320]

Originally Posted by oldsinner111

world's better? I sure would not go with water based crap,Hate it,clear coat destroyed by sunlight. Rather tractor paint,and buff to a shine

If old ( 60's / 70 's / 80's ) was so good, why was Earl Scheib so popular?

[Tony H]

I think the maybe early single stage metallics were not as good. Just my guess.

[97 SL320]

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

It seems like the old single stage paints would last forever and buff out.

Even metallic that has lots of clear built into the mix? Non metallics can usually be buffed to remove oxidation and reveal non damaged paint. However that can only be done a limited amount of times before one rubs through.

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

Modern paints seem like they fade and peel in short time.

Baking in the desert is a worst case environment. In a more average climate, I see pretty shiny stuff with the bottom of the car rusted away. Try telling a customer their car won't pass safety inspection because of structural rust. " But the car still looks shiny! "

I do see clear coat deteriorate on occasion, but by that time the car is near end of life anyway. I also tend to see clear fail after it went through a reconditioning shop where it was buffed too thin.

Sure there are cars with weak paint ( like some 90's GM ) but from what I've been told it was a primer issue that lead to top coat adhesion issues.

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

I can afford $300-$600 for the paint itself, but paying someone thousands of dollars to just spray the car seems insane.

If you quit your job and opened a shop, what would you charge to paint a car and what quality level would it be? RE: There are always different levels of prep based on the value of the car.

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

Speaking of color change--on all the Mercedes I've seen, not only is the original color in the door jambs and engine compartment, but it's also going to be underneath the car and behind all the interior parts. That would drive me crazy.

The amount of prep work far exceeds the time to spray paint, this is where the $ is. Don't forget that some doing body / paint work isn't always a non stop process, sometimes there is drying time in between and this ties up the shop.

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

Actually, my car was originally dark brown and it was repainted black (with awful modern clearcoat paint) and it drives me crazy. The original single stage paint would be in better condition now than the paint they used to repaint it.

Or was it a low quality clear coat with poor prep? PPG sells " Shopline " and the same paint under the " OMNI " name. This paint is for older car repairs where the car isn't expected to go another 10 years. The higher end stuff is more $ and performs better.

[Squiggle Dog]

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

Even metallic that has lots of clear built into the mix? Non metallics can usually be buffed to remove oxidation and reveal non damaged paint. However that can only be done a limited amount of times before one rubs through.

Metallic paint is a different story, but it's more of a luxury finish for people who probably keep it out of the weather or don't expect to own the vehicle for very long. It's not as utilitarian as solid colors.

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

If you quit your job and opened a shop, what would you charge to paint a car and what quality level would it be? RE: There are always different levels of prep based on the value of the car.

The amount of prep work far exceeds the time to spray paint, this is where the $ is. Don't forget that some doing body / paint work isn't always a non stop process, sometimes there is drying time in between and this ties up the shop.

I'd charge whatever was fair for the hourly rate plus materials. It probably doesn't take more than a couple hours to spray a car. Obviously prep work is time-consuming, but the prices I've been quoted is for them to mask off windows, wipe down the car, and spray. What gets me is shops wanting $5,000-$10,000 to paint a car if I bring it to them completely stripped, all bodywork done, and in primer ready to spray. All they have to do is mask off the windows, wipe down the car, and spray it. I'd even be doing the color sanding myself.

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

Or was it a low quality clear coat with poor prep? PPG sells " Shopline " and the same paint under the " OMNI " name. This paint is for older car repairs where the car isn't expected to go another 10 years. The higher end stuff is more $ and performs better.

Who knows. When I got the car back in Washington (it's a Pacific Northwest car), the clear coat was peeling off in sheets. To this day I still have clear coat falling on the ground around the car. I'd rather buff paint until it's gone over a period of a few decades than have it turn milky in five years and then start peeling off.

[PreferVintage]

Today are solvent based paints off the market because of EPA? Only water based? Is enamel still available? My car is white, and if I can find a good paint that dries hard that can be color sanded, I'm sure it will look great without a clear...

[97 SL320]

You can still get solvent paint thought local laws might change that. Look on the PPG paints automotive web site.