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#1
08-28-2019, 02:24 AM
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76 300D blowing fuse #1.
Hey guys, I want to see if there is a "common" cause for these cars to eat fuse 1. It controls the interior/trunk lights, ignition buzzer, clock, hazards and something with a fuel valve. It has never been an issue before. I don't know for sure, but I adjusted the clock counter clockwise and it seems to have started after that, but I really can't say.
I swapped the stock fuse out for a 16amp (only spare I had) it didn't pop instantly. I had the interior lights on, hazards, key buzzer was working. I went to start it about 5 minutes later and the fuse was no more. 
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#2
08-28-2019, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Henry C.
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#3
08-28-2019, 01:27 PM
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No, but they are the same bulbs that have been in there for years prior without issue.
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#4
08-28-2019, 08:29 PM
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Well if you are that certain, than an ammeter is your next friend. Connect it in series with the fuse and start engaging/disengaging the components on the circuit and see which eats too much power. Use math to find out if the bulbs are drawing too much current. Henry
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#5
08-28-2019, 09:13 PM
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How are the ends of the broken part of the fuse...melted with a globby end or sharp with black charring? Can you post a picture of the blown fuse? This will help tell if it is a sudden short or a slow burn from a long slight overload.
Good luck!!!
__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer
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#6
10-02-2019, 05:58 AM
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No melt, weird ends, or discoloration. Just a clean break in the center of the fuse. I swapped the burned 16amp for an 8amp and it lasted longer but eventually failed. I will do some proper testing and get back to you.
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#7
10-03-2019, 12:47 PM
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The only way to track this down is to find everything on that fuse and then, one by one, start disconnecting those items until the fuse stops blowing.
If you disconnect all the items and the fuse still blows you have a short in your fuse block and will need to replace the fuse block. This takes some time but I have never found a short cut to locating which item is shorting without going through this process. And when you do find the item which is shorting you need to find out why. Has the insulation rubbed through? Is something touching it that should not be? Has water found a way to get to it? I have found light sockets that looked and tested good but would still blow a fuse. So I just replaced the item with a known good one and that would solve it.
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#8
10-03-2019, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Electrical troubleshooting on 85 W123 Last post of that thread links to this one: w123 300d - no climate control lights I haven't re-read them (there is a lot there!), but if I recall correctly, a wire going to a passenger door switch lights was grounding out - didn't happen often because it was a rear door. This in turn may have blown the traces on the cluster circuit board. The traces blew before the fuse! (Yes - see post #34 on in second thread) Anyway, sounds like your problem may be similar.
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Graham 85 300D  ,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
Last edited by Graham; 10-04-2019 at 07:32 PM.
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#9
10-04-2019, 06:55 PM
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As always, go back to the last thing you have done. Disconnect the power to the clock and re-test.
Post #60, bottom of the page. Fuse box chart, what fuse goes where And post #2 for the 300D amperage. W115 fuse box diagram with amperages?
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now Last edited by Mike D; 10-04-2019 at 07:10 PM.
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