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  #1  
Old 10-02-2019, 10:45 AM
Jub Jub is offline
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Camshaft Needed (72 MB w114 250)

Hi Everyone,


Anyone have a spare camshaft (72 MB w114 250 SOHC) lying around for a decent price?


Thanks in advance,


Jub
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  #2  
Old 10-03-2019, 12:39 PM
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Take a look at the cam and see if there is a part number you can read. With these cams the part number is rather critical.

There is also a break in the engine numbers. From engine 016312 one cam is used. From engine 016313 a different one was used. (This is for the M114 engine only.)

This cam was used on cars from 1970 to 1972.

Also, is this an M114 or an M130 engine?

Is this a 250c? According to your posted photo it is not. Which is good since they take a cam different from the others (in some cases).

Last edited by Idle; 10-03-2019 at 06:03 PM.
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  #3  
Old 10-03-2019, 12:55 PM
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Try to get a cam with used rockers from that same cam that have been kept in sequence so they can continue to ride on the same lobe. It is best not to interchange used parts such as used rockers from another cam. Avoid this if possible.

Good luck!!!
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  #4  
Old 10-07-2019, 02:42 PM
Jub Jub is offline
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Looks like part number is #114 051 05 01 (for w114 sedan).
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  #5  
Old 10-07-2019, 06:20 PM
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google is your friend
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  #6  
Old 10-07-2019, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jub View Post
Looks like part number is #114 051 05 01 (for w114 sedan).
My reference books don't go by part number. Only engine number.

There is a difference in automatic transmission cams and standard shift cams, so it looks like you will need to stick with the part number on the cam.
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  #7  
Old 10-07-2019, 09:39 PM
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There shows to be one on Evil Bay for only $647! Shipping is free. And it is new.

You might Google camshaft repair and grinding to see if anyone can restore your profiles. I did this once in the middle of nowhere on a small metal lathe and while it was not perfect (an understatement) it worked until I could make it back to civilization.

It was built up with welding slag and then ground down to what looked right.

I am sure there are more precision ways of doing this.
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  #8  
Old 10-08-2019, 04:31 PM
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Keep in mind rockers are needed also. Other cams may work fine such as a euro version, manual transmission or even from a fuel injected motor. Being flexible about not getting the exact one by part number may open up more used part options if the exact one is made of unobtainium in the used market. Cams are often swapped about for various performance reasons. Just a thought...

Good luck!!!
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  #9  
Old 10-08-2019, 04:39 PM
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A professional cam shop (you would have to mail it in) could rebuild your core to OEM. Or make it even better. Shop around for it. No affiliation to these, but just suggestions:
How To Order
https://elgincams.com/info/

I only suggest it because maybe for $400 or less you could have a cam that'd give you more power or better mid-range or whatever characteristic(s) you prefer, for the same or less than a questionable used cam.
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  #10  
Old 10-09-2019, 01:05 PM
Jub Jub is offline
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Thanks Tomguy!


I called around asking about this on the east coast (DC area), everyone I spoke with told me that "these days, cheaper to get new" (MB Classics quoted ~$650). So kind of stopped asking around.


Also, didn't know you can make it better than Spec (that's a big bonus). Not sure I would know how to tweak the technical specs to get more power (just a weekend mechanic/hobbyist), but still that's pretty awesome.


Thanks again,


Jub
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  #11  
Old 10-09-2019, 03:39 PM
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They could set up the specs for you. Most cam shops can do this.

Remember: Mercedes set the original cam profile up to give you smooth power and refinement. Because that's what the customers then wanted. Any change you make to get more power is going to compromise your original feel.

But it can be done. Today cams are often ground to give more power as Mercedes owners of vintage Mercedes are willing to accept more vibration for more power.

I always like to stick with the original set-up, but that's just me.
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  #12  
Old 10-14-2019, 01:07 PM
Jub Jub is offline
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Why canít you use new rockers when you get used camshaft?

Only reason I ask is because I think I found a fix that may buy me time until I get a camshaft. Looks like the rocker arm is worn down as well, so instead of addressing wear in cam (~hundred), other side of the coin (rockers) is cheaper.

I added 1 new rocker arm to exhaust valve, and no longer getting back firing.

Thoughts/concerns?

Jub
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Camshaft Needed (72 MB w114 250)-ccf305b1-f692-4929-af3f-0a5c9dccdd29.jpg  
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  #13  
Old 10-14-2019, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jub View Post
Why canít you use new rockers when you get used camshaft?

Only reason I ask is because I think I found a fix that may buy me time until I get a camshaft. Looks like the rocker arm is worn down as well, so instead of addressing wear in cam (~hundred), other side of the coin (rockers) is cheaper.

I added 1 new rocker arm to exhaust valve, and no longer getting back firing.

Thoughts/concerns?

Jub

New rockers can be used with a used lobe(s); used rockers must remain with the lobe on which they have been previously run, and not interchanged among lobes.

By running a new rocker on the worn lobe just enough lift has been regained to reduce the exhaust backflow into the inlet tract.
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  #14  
Old 10-16-2019, 12:31 AM
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If this engine is a US spec 250 it should have a M130 2.8 liter engine so there are lots of choices for cam shafts.

When I do a full engine rebuild I use new ball studs and new rockers. At most, I have the cam lobes polished if they look rough.

Rocker arm geometry is more important than all of this crap about mixing up rockers and cams in worn out engines.
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  #15  
Old 10-16-2019, 10:32 AM
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Two trains of thought on mixing used rockers with a used cam:
1) they wear together, so miniscule differences where peaks now rub peaks versus valleys can cause wear,
2) the cam only rotates half as fast as the engine, is it a big deal?

Ultimately, while it's bad to constantly get these "Rotated", if you do mix them up, they'll have a little longer break in period, and then likely be just fine after. If you're wearing your hardened faces off via a swap... well, to be honest , probably not much hardened face was lefty anyway. I say just don't rev too hard for the first 100 miles, change the filter after 300, and then you should be fine (no need for a full oil change unless the filter was worse than normal).

Now. If your rocker arms and cam lobes actually have grooves visible, or ridges you can feel... replacement, not keeping them together, is the proper solution from a mechanical perspective as the hardened faces are shot.
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