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#1
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Dash lights
The dashboard lights (gages & heater controls) on my 1969 280S haven’t worked since I got it. The other night, long after I turned on the headlights at dusk, I noticed everything was lit up. I twisted the knob and the intensity increased properly. Then, after I shut the car off, everything is out again. Does this suggest anything obvious? (I am not too electrically minded.)
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#2
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Sounds like an issue with the rheostat. Twist it back and forth numerous times to see if you can get it working properly or replace it. I replaced mine with a new one.
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1973 280SEL 4.5 2021 E450S4 AT/Wagon |
#3
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Thanks, I’ll try it.
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#4
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I agree. Keep in mind that your rheostat is basically a contact rubbing on a circular spring, so after twisting it - plus after years of normal twisting - there will be quite a bit of crud that could possibly get stuck in the spring itself, which would invalidate your twist-to-fix method. It's best to remove the rheostat and then twist it plus to give it a good cleaning. Of course, you can always wire around it, leaving your dash lights on full bright.
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Don't Chrome them; polish them |
#5
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Anybody found a way to spray electrical contact cleaner into the rheostat? Probably can do that with it out, but it would be convenient if you could squirt it in place and twist it around a bunch. At least that kicks the can down the road a bit.
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#6
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taking the instrument cluster out a bit to get to the back of it isn't that difficult, especially if somebody removed the little knob that holds it in place and never put it back.
-CTH |
#7
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My two cents: either A) Find a setting on the rheostat that is your perfect brightness that works and don't touch it, or B) Replace it. I took mine out and cleaned it completely. Contact cleaner, Dremel polishing... it looked like new. I don't think it was a week before it stopped working 100% again, and about 2 weeks before it became a PITA again. I think these are just so quick to oxidize from the tiny sparks and the heat from normal use that a modern replacement is the only way to permanently fix the design. Otherwise you'll be cutting your hands open to pull the cluster again.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#8
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I favor dim instrument illumination so as not to distract from outside vision. Accordingly, I had not touched the rheostat control on my 280 SE 4.5 for 40+ years. Inspired by this thread, I decided to see if it still worked. Turned the knob and all the instrument lights instantly extinguished. Dirty words and impure thoughts provided the energy for vigorous twisting of the rheostat which finally restored the illumination at the level to which I was accustomed. Made note to check full functionality of rheostat again in 40 years
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#9
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Thanks for all the help! I haven’t had a chance to try any of it yet because my daily driver (Ford) broke down and I worked on it in the street for over a week. The 280S filled in admirably as a commuter car.
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#10
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Hi, new to the group, just purchased W114 250c
Usual dash light problem, I have taken the Rheostat apart and cleaned, changed bulbs, even tried the wire from terminal to terminal doing away with the Rheostat. Still can’t get the lights to work, any ideas would be appreciated |
#11
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Check fuse #5 for continuity and power. Many times, a simple rotation of the fuse will break free any corrosion.
If you have aluminum filament fuses, replace them with brass/copper style. A LIGHT application of dielectric grease will inhibit future corrosion. If you do use the aluminum fuses, then use an anti-corrosion agent such as Noalox on the fuses.
__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#12
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Fuse 5
Thanks MikeD
What other items does Fuse 5 control, I will check it out T |
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