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#1
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Lubricating the A/C fan in a W115
So my A/C fan has started making noise (as does my heater blower... double whammy). While I've found plenty of resources on the web regarding the heater blower, it's still unclear to me what is the best way to get to the A/C. It seems like a simpler job, but I'm not sure what the best access point is. Should I remove the radio first and then console and reach from this area? Do I need to remove the whole fan? How long should I expect this to take?
Thanks! Henry C. |
#2
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As I understand it, the AC fan is easily accessed by removing the console, so obviously the radio as well. Accessing the heater fan is more time-consuming as you need to remove the dash. If you are only interested in lubing it, you can remove the fresh air inlet and reach through the passage to the fan and strictly by feel drop some ATF on the end of the fan shaft. Time needed would be an individual challenge.
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Don't Chrome them; polish them |
#3
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Quote:
I got to the AC unit by removing the console easily. Thanks for the tip. However, I've not been successful in getting lube in it--tested by turning on the fan while it's all apart. I can't seem to get the fan out or the A/C box out. Any tips for getting the fan out, or recommend to keep going at it with oil through a straw at odd angles? Pictures: https://i.imgur.com/9eX7qli.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ULqsAE5.jpg https://i.imgur.com/C8BEmZm.jpg Thanks, Henry C. |
#4
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I have heard the straw tip works well. I have never tried it but it is an old school trick.
And might I suggest using a 3 M product instead of ATF? Not that AFT will not work but 3 M makes an oil that is formulated to work well on small electric motors. I have used it a lot and it really works. Look for the oil with a blue cap. |
#5
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Quote:
Thx. There are two bearings on this one. I tried various bent straws and had no luck. So I ended up opening the AC box to get the fan out. Some of the clips and screws are tricky to get in that tight space. I put power steering fluid in the bearings and all is well (didn't have ATF on hand; after all, I believe they are interchangeable in the power steering systems on these cars). Overall it was a worse job than I expected, but if I had to do it again I could do it 2x as fast. Also, the alternator light has been dimming (not blinking) in and out erratically on occasion and those fan tests killed by battery 1/2 way. Got car going but starter was clearly not up to speed. Remember to test the A/C fan means having the ignition and glow plugs on, so I expected the drain. Change of engine speed makes a difference in the dimming characteristics but it's not clear what difference. Driving 1/2 hour with or without headlights and A/C on didn't seem to make a difference except it didn't charge the battery any more than what it was initially. I'm thinking bad alternator or bad connections somewhere, but the voltage regulator connections are solid so it gives me the inclination it's the alt. Will have checked at auto part store later this week ... Grrr... Henry C. |
#6
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Quote:
Update on this last one: Alternator itself was bad. Replaced it. My heater blower has been squealing and in need of lubrication since I got the car. I was dreading this job greatly after seeing others reviews on it. However, I was able to fix it in a matter of about an hour through the cowl. Removed wipers, cowl, and drilled a hole in the water deflector above the fan motor. Put some oil on the shaft, and voila, runs like new. Sealed drilled hole with rust preventing paint and covered with aluminum tape. Done - far easier than the AC lube! Henry C. |
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