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#1
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Removing masking tape on repainted wheel trims - how long?
Hi folks,
I'm currently repainting the wheel trims on my W115. Quick question: how long should I wait before moving the masking tape from the wheels? I see conflicting messages online and want to make sure the finish is as good as possible. Thanks! |
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#2
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This is tough to answer because there are so many variable on paint drying.
What I have done is paint them and then shoot some paint on a clean area inside the cover. Then I can touch that paint and see if it is dry without leaving a fingerprint on the outside if the paint is still wet. I think the real answer would be 'as long as you can' because the longer it has to cure the harder it will be. BUT>>>> After spraying them it is not unwise to remove the tape after the paint has set. When you are sure the paint will no longer run carefully peel away the tape and let the cap sit. Otherwise if the paint is fully hardened when you remove the tape you might also remove some of the painted area you wish to keep. You might also get a jagged edge if you wait for the paint to fully cure. |
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#3
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Thanks for the detailed response! I'll leave it a while then until the paint is dry to touch and then very carefully remove the tape.
Tape removal at an angle away from the paint is probably safest I guess? Looking forward to the finished results. I'll post some photos shortly (just finished top coating the first one) Is it also worth clear coating them? I got an aerosol of my car's paint mixed up and it's a gloss finish so perhaps it's fine without? |
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#4
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I'd be careful with clear coat. I'd check with the paint supplier to be sure they are compatible.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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#5
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Ah good to know. I think I'll steer clear - the finish is looking pretty darn good already.
For anyone interested, here's some pics ![]() Got myself some extremely dirty, but otherwise great condition wheel trims for next to nothing last week ![]() Cleaned them up front and back. A few decades of brake dust... damn! ![]() They came up very well though ![]() A lot of patience and X-Acto knifing later... ![]() We live in Vancouver, BC, where rent and property is ridiculously priced, so unfortunately we're not blessed with a garage (or much space at all for that matter!). Fortunately, there's a few nice quiet corners of our apartment building parking lot to create a makeshift spraying area (and additional cardboard box to cover the rim after each coat to avoid dust getting into the paint) ![]() First trim looking excellent. Very happy with the finish, so leaving it to cure for a while and then will remove the masking for the finished article ![]() So, hopefully that's three down, one to go..
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#6
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And that's one done. Very happy with the finish
![]() To anyone who is considering doing this - it's time consuming but I've found it to be a thoroughly enjoyable (and satisfying) process
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1975 W115 300D |
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#8
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Just a little more time to do it right and WOW. That looks amazing.
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#9
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Just this minute removed the masking tape from the final wheel. I gotta say I'm over the moon with how these came out! Just need to be patient before polishing and then waxing. Car will be rocking black steelies for a few weeks...
The finished article:
__________________
1975 W115 300D |
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#10
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Well Done!
Beautiful work. Nicely done.
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#11
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https://vintageeuroparts.com/index.php/hub-cap-stencil-painting-wheel-masking-tool-115-589-42-63-00-w108-w109-w111-w113-w114-w115-w123.html
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Past mb: '73 450sl, '81 280slc stick, '71 250, '72 250c, '70 250c, '79 280sl, '73 450sl, parted: '75 240d stick, '69 280s, '73 450slc, '72 450sl, |
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#12
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I liked your approach to masking. I did a set many years ago and used a very fine line masking tape. Flexable almost beyond belief.
There even was a possible factory available jig available at one time made of cast metal I suspect. Saw one at a major automotive flea market one year. Again a very long time ago. Your results look very good. As for places to work on cars by owners. It is almost feast or famine . I am originally out of the core area of Toronto to a semi rural setting. I was amazed the other day that a guy was doing some pretty messy job in his living room. There is a will there is a way I suppose. I also was concerned about the paint or primer bonding to the stainless but there was no issue with time. I also have always liked those hubcaps. It may be the spinning star aspect. To me they just seemed more a part of the car that what replaced them. Just a personal thing. Certainly aided the identification of brand. It may have been Studebaker that got into an issue with Mercedes by using the star on their cars at one time. The folks in Indianna might infringe on anything. Have to keep an eye on those folks. Oddly enough I had a refurbished Studebaker star in my hands very reciently. It had no outer ring and went on the trunk I think when installed. For the younger members look up a 1953 Studebaker coupe on the web if you have never seen one. A design well ahead of the time of production. Last edited by barry12345; 05-12-2020 at 11:55 PM. |
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#13
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The link I posted above is a plastic version of the metal one you describe. I’ve seen people asking $400+ for the metal version with the outer trim ring too. The 14” is most common, but the center Star is the same size for dog dish. 14” and 15” caps. I have one of the plastic version myself.
__________________
Past mb: '73 450sl, '81 280slc stick, '71 250, '72 250c, '70 250c, '79 280sl, '73 450sl, parted: '75 240d stick, '69 280s, '73 450slc, '72 450sl, |
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