220SEb Year?

[Thunder-71]

Found a 220SEb in a bone yard, the data plate identification slot shows 220SEb Chassis No. slot shows 111014-10-001998 the year of manufacture slot shows nothing. Do you know what year it is? Dash pads and seats are excellent. Are they worth picking? Other parts? Under hood is an inline 6 fuel injection and seems complete.
Thanks.

[ScooterABC]

Lots of things are worth picking. Certainly the dash pad. Take underhood pics for better idea of what year it is...

[t walgamuth]

The six can be used in a Pagoda sl but it is not exactly the same. I think the engine has value, probably other stuff too.

[Idle]

Get the fuel pump for sure. The radio if it is a Becker and check to see if it is attached to an amp. If so get the amp, too.

If it has an A/C then what type is it? Mercedes used a Kulhmiester and those are worth a bit. Also if it is a Fridgiking (Fridgiking also made the Kulhmiester) but if it is an ARA or Clardy or a Sears branded A/C then it is likely more a common to other cars unit and not worth that much.

Fog and Head lamp assemblies, too.

As far as the year goes, Mercedes never designated their cars then by years. This led to left over 1963 models magically becoming 1964 models if they were unsold in 1963. Mercedes faced a lawsuit over this so they had to change this way of doing business.

But the best way I have found to easily tell the year model is to remove the instrument cluster. Sometimes, but not all the time, there is a date stamp on the back of the cluster. So if you have the original cluster, and normally you do, you can get a good notion of what year it is.

But so many of the parts will stay the same during the model run the year is not that important if you are just talking about parts. One key change in parts during the run of this car is the power brake booster. Up until around 1963 the booster was a unit installed away from the master cylinder and up next to the power steering pump. Sometime in 1964 Mercedes went to a modern booster mounted on the firewall. Those dates may be wrong but they are close.

And check the market for the front disc brakes. This car may have them. If s the calipers are sort of odd and rather rare. Of course the cars they go on are also rare, so if you are planning on selling them please realize their might be only 1,000 people or less in the entire world that might need them.

[Thunder-71]

Originally Posted by Idle

Get the fuel pump for sure. The radio if it is a Becker and check to see if it is attached to an amp. If so get the amp, too.

If it has an A/C then what type is it? Mercedes used a Kulhmiester and those are worth a bit. Also if it is a Fridgiking (Fridgiking also made the Kulhmiester) but if it is an ARA or Clardy or a Sears branded A/C then it is likely more a common to other cars unit and not worth that much.

Fog and Head lamp assemblies, too.

As far as the year goes, Mercedes never designated their cars then by years. This led to left over 1963 models magically becoming 1964 models if they were unsold in 1963. Mercedes faced a lawsuit over this so they had to change this way of doing business.

But the best way I have found to easily tell the year model is to remove the instrument cluster. Sometimes, but not all the time, there is a date stamp on the back of the cluster. So if you have the original cluster, and normally you do, you can get a good notion of what year it is.

But so many of the parts will stay the same during the model run the year is not that important if you are just talking about parts. One key change in parts during the run of this car is the power brake booster. Up until around 1963 the booster was a unit installed away from the master cylinder and up next to the power steering pump. Sometime in 1964 Mercedes went to a modern booster mounted on the firewall. Those dates may be wrong but they are close.

And check the market for the front disc brakes. This car may have them. If s the calipers are sort of odd and rather rare. Of course the cars they go on are also rare, so if you are planning on selling them please realize their might be only 1,000 people or less in the entire world that might need them.

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated. I will check when I get the chance. On the fuel pump, is it located under the trunk near the gas tank?
Anything else worth taking under the hood?
Thanks again.

[Tony H]

Get the FI at least if you don't get the engine. Is it a 2dr coupe? If so you might get the glass and bumpers. Coupe bumpers and glass are different than sedan bumpers. Also the fenders if not rusty. lots of rusty coupes out there that need fenders. From the VIN it's a manual transmission car. You might get the entire drivetrain/pedal assy for a manual trans swap. Based on the VIN it was the 1998th produced so it would be an early car-probably '62. It's probably pretty rough if it was junked but actually pretty valuable in nice condition:https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-mercedes-benz-220seb/

[Thunder-71]

Originally Posted by Tony H

Get the FI at least if you don't get the engine. Is it a 2dr coupe? If so you might get the glass and bumpers. Coupe bumpers and glass are different than sedan bumpers. Also the fenders if not rusty. lots of rusty coupes out there that need fenders. From the VIN it's a manual transmission car. You might get the entire drivetrain/pedal assy for a manual trans swap.

It is a 4 door, I will check the fenders, also is the fuel pump under the trunk near the tank? Seats are excellent, windshield is good.

[dobrodan]

It's an SE, fuel injected, so the fuel pump is next to the fuel tank. The VIN is very low. If it were a carbureted car I would say early '59, but it could be later than that. I've had a few early cars. The easiest way visually to check is the dash pad. In '61 they changed sometime mid-year from the four piece dash to a one piece. Also, the early cars has different hinges on the hood and trunk. That changed, I think, in '60. The early hinges didn't have coil springs and were fastened behind the fenders, which made service tough. According to EPC this VIN also has the early front subframe, which uses different mounts and flat springs. This changed in '61 sometime or for '62. Pictures would be a big help.

[Thunder-71]

Originally Posted by dobrodan

It's an SE, fuel injected, so the fuel pump is next to the fuel tank. The VIN is very low. If it were a carbureted car I would say early '59, but it could be later than that. I've had a few early cars. The easiest way visually to check is the dash pad. In '61 they changed sometime mid-year from the four piece dash to a one piece. Also, the early cars has different hinges on the hood and trunk. That changed, I think, in '60. The early hinges didn't have coil springs and were fastened behind the fenders, which made service tough. According to EPC this VIN also has the early front subframe, which uses different mounts and flat springs. This changed in '61 sometime or for '62. Pictures would be a big help.

The dash pad is nice without cracks or scrapes and took it. The top pad is 2 pieces, a long piece from right end to the middle of instrument cluster and a small piece from middle of cluster to the left end. The lower pad is one piece. I would put pictures but I don't know how. It is a 4 door fin tail car.

[Idle]

You will find the fuel pump on the left (drivers) side of the car, sort of behind the rear wheel and right in front of the corner of the gas tank. Make sure to get not only the pump but the mounting ring assembly and the metal mud guard. This is a box looking sort of thing that should be there but normally rusts away.

The intake exhaust manifold assembly is worth something if the exhaust manifold heat riser flaps are working. They are usually frozen up.

This should also have a cold start valve. Get that. It is usually mounted on the intake manifold and will have a fuel line going to it and two wires. It will be a circular looking thing, or at least it was on the later cars.

This is a big one: If the shift is column mounted the entire column is worth something if it is in working condition. Check out the prices on these as pulling them is a big job.

Look at the ends of the dash. There should be a round vent on each end. These are about an inch and a quarter across and will close with a small flap. If these are chrome, and not pitted, pull these and the short hoses that lead from the heater ducts to the ends of the vent assemblies.

ANY wood that is still in good condition should be picked. Careful here. These will be brittle and flake off easily. The wood that shows is just a very thin veneer so don't try to sand it down. There is almost nothing there to sand.

Any interior chrome is worth pulling. It is cheaper for an owner to buy an original part than to have theirs replated.

If the hubcaps are not dented get them. If one is dented just leave it. Only take the ones that are perfect or perhaps just need repainting.

Keep in mind on chrome and trim: Owners look at these pieces not as functional items but like works of art. They need to be perfect or nearly so before anyone will buy them.

And: Check the door latch part that is on the body. The small plate with the circular pipe with a rubber interior. If these are chrome and not torn up they are worth pulling. Take an impact wrench if you have one. Those suckers are bolted in there tightly.

[Thunder-71]

Originally Posted by Idle

You will find the fuel pump on the left (drivers) side of the car, sort of behind the rear wheel and right in front of the corner of the gas tank. Make sure to get not only the pump but the mounting ring assembly and the metal mud guard. This is a box looking sort of thing that should be there but normally rusts away.

The intake exhaust manifold assembly is worth something if the exhaust manifold heat riser flaps are working. They are usually frozen up.

This should also have a cold start valve. Get that. It is usually mounted on the intake manifold and will have a fuel line going to it and two wires. It will be a circular looking thing, or at least it was on the later cars.

This is a big one: If the shift is column mounted the entire column is worth something if it is in working condition. Check out the prices on these as pulling them is a big job.

Look at the ends of the dash. There should be a round vent on each end. These are about an inch and a quarter across and will close with a small flap. If these are chrome, and not pitted, pull these and the short hoses that lead from the heater ducts to the ends of the vent assemblies.

ANY wood that is still in good condition should be picked. Careful here. These will be brittle and flake off easily. The wood that shows is just a very thin veneer so don't try to sand it down. There is almost nothing there to sand.

Any interior chrome is worth pulling. It is cheaper for an owner to buy an original part than to have theirs replated.

If the hubcaps are not dented get them. If one is dented just leave it. Only take the ones that are perfect or perhaps just need repainting.

Keep in mind on chrome and trim: Owners look at these pieces not as functional items but like works of art. They need to be perfect or nearly so before anyone will buy them.

And: Check the door latch part that is on the body. The small plate with the circular pipe with a rubber interior. If these are chrome and not torn up they are worth pulling. Take an impact wrench if you have one. Those suckers are bolted in there tightly.

Thanks a lot for all your good pointers, I pulled most of the nice clean parts, dash pads, vents, radio and amplifier, headlight assemblies, cowl vent chrome grill etc. I need to go back for the fuel pump and fuel injection, also there is a 1965 in the yard with a carbureted engine. Are they any parts under the hood worth taking? Thanks again.

[Idle]

I misspoke yesterday on one point. The exhaust manifolds. Since the car you were pulling from is a fuel injected car the exhaust manifolds are different from the carb ones. There will be two exhaust manifolds on the FI car, a front and a rear. Both are worth pulling. If possible just cut the downpipes leading off them since they are difficult to remove even when they are not rusted up. The part of the downpipe still attached to the manifolds after you remove them can then be easily removed by cutting the three bolts that hold the pipe to the manifold.

On the carb car the only thing under the hood worth pulling would be the carbs and the intake exhaust manifold assembly IF the heat risers are still working.

The generator, if it has one. And any relays you can find.

Is the other car a standard or an automatic? If it is an automatic try and pull the kick down switch from the firewall. This is difficult to remove so you might not be able to get it.

What part of the country is this in? If the car is rusted use caution when dealing with the exhaust pipes as they can be quite brittle and are easy to cut yourself with if you are not wearing some thick gloves.

[dobrodan]

Definitely pull the Zeniths off the '65. Cores are worth a couple hundred bucks.

[Thunder-71]

Originally Posted by dobrodan

Definitely pull the Zeniths off the '65. Cores are worth a couple hundred bucks.

Were any other carbs used besides Zeniths? Also the 220SEb has the hood hinges mounted on the fenders, no springs, which year was the last for these hinges?

[Idle]

Originally Posted by Thunder-71

Were any other carbs used besides Zeniths? Also the 220SEb has the hood hinges mounted on the fenders, no springs, which year was the last for these hinges?

Some cars used Solex and they are not worth as much as the Zeniths. But still, when you look at what you will pay at the junk yard vs. what the Solex's sell for it might still be worth doing. This depends on the condition of the carbs, of course. Due to the way the air cleaner fits on the top of them they are usually in at least rebuildable shape. If the air cleaner has been removed, like someone was working on the carbs and didn't replace it, they could be too rusted up to mess with.

You sound like you would know the difference between good and rebuildable and total junk carbs so just let your experience be your guide. Check out past sales on Ebay to see the condition of the carbs sold there and what they went for to help in your decision making.

If this car has the side marker lights mounted on the fenders you might grab those if they are in very good condition. These are not as rare as you might think but good ones sell for nothing at a junk yard and could bring in a few bucks on Ebay. These lights would be mounted towards the top of the front fenders and just behind the front wheel opening.

This car might have the 'bullet' style turn signals lights on the front. If so they could be amber or clear. If amber they need to be free of obvious cracks. If clear it is because the sun has bleached out the amber color. The chrome rings should be in very good condition.

I know there is a lot to take in here. Let us know how all of this works out for you. AND... You can also post in a Peachparts For Sale Forum if you like.