Front Axil Sub Mounts
 

I've read some other posts about how to install these. One that I read implied that you could do the install without an engine hoist. Is that true or is too dangerous?

Check out my DIY article in the DIY section at the top of the page. Easy weekend project for an able DIYer.

BTW: No hoist used.

I read that article and while somewhat helpful it doesn't really work for the 114. The main difference being that on the 114 the mounts are secured from below and the only way to get the rubber mounts out is to seperate the axil from the body.

It seems to me that you could raise the car and support the engine adn disconnect it fromt he axil and then lower one side of the axil at a time. The trick is dealing with the road springs as I think you would have to disconnect the shock and the sway bar drop link to do it and thus expanding the spring. DANGER.

The CD says to use an engine hoist to hold the engine, but doesn't mention the springs.

I believe they are the same as the 220D (72) I've replaced them in -- two on each side, correct?

If so, just jack up the car in the front and support the frame on jackstands, allowing the subframe to hang down.

Remove the through bolts for the mounts on one side -- have a big screwdriver handy to hold the nut plate in the slot in the frame if they are really stuck and/or the nut plate breaks off. Do ONLY one side at a time, please, else the engine falls out!.

On the first side, the subframe may sag down enough to pry the old mounts out of the subframe without help. If not, you need a LARGE prybar (5 ft min) to lever the frame down while your assistant (or vice versa) prys the old ones out and gets the new ones in. Coat them with silicone spray or dishwashing detergent as they have to slide into the recesses, and it is a very bad idea to get your fingers in there.

Insert bolts and the supplied new nut plates and partially tighten.

Move to the other side -- you will definitely need the prybar on this side. Remove and insert the mounts as for the first side. Keep your hands out from between the frame and subrame -- there is enough pressure from the mounts to damage your fingers if the prybar slips.

Tighten the bolts completely when both sets of bushings are in place.

The old bushings may be pretty well stuck, especially if oil ran down on them much. They get really soft and sticky then.

Check your engine mounts, too -- when I replaced the subframe mounts, the subframe sat enough lower that the AC compressor started banging on the inner fender seam!

Peter

That's good into. While futzing with the trans linkage, I have been contemplating my largely disintegrated subframe mounts.

I am confused about one thing (on this topic).

If you pry the subframe down, aren't you prying against a fully extended shock absorber? Why not undo the shock and let the subframe down with a hydraulic jack?

TIA

I suppose you could, but then the entire subframe could drop. The suspension is completely attached to the subframe except for the top mount for the shock.

The first side you can reach in and pull the bushing out, there will be enough room. You one have to pry down on the second side, and most of what you are prying against is the bushings on the other side. If you take the shocks loose, there is nothing holding the subframe up after you take the bolts out, and it is HEAVY -- the engine sits on it, too!

Peter