W114 250 Camper conversion

[cth350]

I like the yellow. There is a factory yellow for that vintage, it's more "sunny", less "yoke" (brighter, paler). I've seen exactly 3 cars in that color, one was a 600 lwb, the other was 450SL and the third? A w114.

-CTH

[1971 250/8]

Originally Posted by Idle

You may want to have this retitled as a camper or homemade trailer.

I saw something like this done with a Volvo 245 wagon. Not as extensive, though. They just cut off the front fenders, cut the frame rails so they would fold in together and welded in a part of the drive shaft for a tongue. It looked like a pick-up bed trailer with a body.

Then they said they had it titled as a trailer to cut down on plate cost and insurance costs. They just called the DPS (this was in Texas) who said to bring it on down and they would inspect it. They passed it and gave him a new title and a trailer plate for the rear.

Also as a trailer he didn't have to have it inspected. But this was long ago and I think they do annual inspections on trailers now. This would of course vary from state to state.

Passing the inspection consisted of nothing but making sure the lights worked and it would actually pull without tipping over.

He even left the rear wiper on and wired it up so it would work. He said the DPS liked the mud flaps that Volvos used on their wagons.

Bingo. I'm in California and read an online posts of a guy who built his own teardrop trailer and insisted not registering it as a camper... saying utility trailer is the way to go. That didnt sit right with me so I did some digging. Turns out the guy was dead wrong after I found out about the PTI program (CVC 242 Camp Trailer) Requires CHP inspection. I called the local CHP office and spoke with the guy that does them. He hit on things you mentioned, lights, safety chains and a detailed build showing pictures and receipts. Once it passes they issue a verification form for the DMV.

[1971 250/8]

Originally Posted by cth350

I like the yellow. There is a factory yellow for that vintage, it's more "sunny", less "yoke" (brighter, paler). I've seen exactly 3 cars in that color, one was a 600 lwb, the other was 450SL and the third? A w114.

-CTH

Similar to the VW Bug yellow. It certainly brightens up the interior. That with almond panels and a bamboo floor will look good, I think.

[1971 250/8]

Time consuming job. Ran wiring for LED TV (coax and power w/outlet); 8 LED lights (independent switches) to trunk. One more pair of LED lights will be wired on the interior side of the trunk lid later (trunk is the galley). Also installed two multi-speed fans on the forward bulkhead.

Looks sweet at night!

(TV consumes 25 watts and plugs into a 300W ROCKPALS unit. Antenna is on a telescopic mast to 16 feet. Antenna job will be posted later)



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[1971 250/8]

Removed trunk rust with wire brushes, sander & rust neutralizer. Primed and painted with brush oil-based enamel / enamel spray Royal Blue.

In work installing TV antenna mount. PVC mounting tube installed through original AM/FM antenna hole (drilled larger to 1 1/4") and Fuze-It glued into place for bracket follow-on installation. Last photo shows bubble level on top of mount to ensure telescopic pole will be vertically straight. This mount will house the telescopic pole.



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[1971 250/8]

This update shows weather instruments, heat venting and exterior painting technique to be used once the body work is done.

I removed the speedometer, clock, and gauge from the instrument cluster for conversion into a weather station with 3 instruments filling those voids; Analog (no battery) Temperature Dial, Hygrometer, and Barometer (barometer hasn't arrived yet). PRN432 left intact as a throwback to her earlier life.

I chose analog for all instruments and clock to maintain that vintage 1970s look.

On the opposite side an analog clock and heat vent will be installed. The heater will be a Jupiter Dietz Lantern which is more than adequate to heat the interior space of about 92 cubic feet. The pictured lantern is modified to also serve as a stove (for coffee or cooking beans, rice). Venting will be assisted by a 3 watt fan through ducting placed on top of the lantern.

Exterior painting. I'm not a body work guy, so after much research and testing DIY applications I decided on foam rollers to apply oil-based enamel. This paint is very durable and resists chemicals / fuels. I also wanted to be able to do touch ups myself in the future without having a professional do it (DIY is best for me). The final picture is a comparison between brushed on (Right side) and rolled on (Left side)... the brushed side has visible brush lines, the rolled on has the perfect even texture for this camper project. The color I have chosen is Gloss Sand. (The yellow was only an application test)


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[1971 250/8]

Question for the forum. Has anyone ran with 205R/14 on a W114 chassis? I wouldn't think anyone has due to odometer concerns, but you never know.

I want a larger diameter tire for this camper conversion to increase height.

Doing so gets an additional 1.5" chassis lift and increases axle ground clearance by 3/4". I thought about going with a larger rim but want to use the original hubcaps.

Talking with my local tire shop they recommend I use tires built for trailers (which they say are sturdier tires not meant for cars) however I'm not taking that advice for two reasons. Reason one is the 205s will fit and work properly (no odometer concerns). The second reason is I want these tires to be interchangeable with the tow vehicle so I don't have to carry a spare since the tow vehicle already has one.


Picture one is the current tire dimensions. Picture two is 205 dimensions.

Anything else I should be thinking of?


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[801mbz]

I like 205/75/14 on 123 for the clearance

[1971 250/8]

Originally Posted by 801mbz

I like 205/75/14 on 123 for the clearance

Yeah, including the lift kit the chassis will sit 7" higher than factory.

[1971 250/8]

Installed bamboo flooring and aluminum edge transition pieces. Interior is 95% complete. Time to focus on exterior things.


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[1971 250/8]

Converting the gas tank into a fresh water tank and want to show gas tank guts. I've seen questions on other threads about why the drain plug has a filter on it, the last picture shows why (I removed my filter from the plug).

Cutting preps: Two months back I busted as much rust out of the interior by letting it sit for two weeks under electrolysis (suspended a section of rebar on the inside, then filled with water and a cup of baking soda.. 12v charger 1.5 amps) Checked on it each day to top off after daily evaporation (about 1/2 cup or so... blazing hot month).

Let it sit 6 more weeks outside in hot weather... today there was ZERO gas smell (I didn't expect that). To double up on safety I still filled it half way with water before cutting the top off.

My observation is these tank interiors clean up well with electrolysis. If I repeated the process for another two weeks it may have cleaned out a lot more rust.

Tank will be sanded, painted blue, lined with a 15 gallon food safe bladder.

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[1971 250/8]

Removed / neutralized rust and primed tank for painting. Next update will cover painting, bladder install & tank installation.


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[1971 250/8]

Finished fuel tank conversion into a fresh water tank.

Pictures show progression...

- Painted tank with brushed on oil-based enamel. Then placed door trim material over cut edges.

- Trimmed oversized bladder to fit tank. Material is the same as a camelbak; outer layer is tough nylon fabric and inner layer is food grade plastic that seals with a hot iron (house iron works great set on high). Bladder came with a fill spout and drain spout (pictured).

- Filled bladder with water and let it sit awhile. No leaks.

- Drained to measure: 9.5 gallons (a little less than what I expected but happy nonetheless)

Installed tank onto subframe.

Next job is trunk work (galley work).


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[cth350]

you might want to coat the inside with something so that the bladder and the metal don't meet. The metal will win and the bladder would get a few pinhole leaks.

-CTH

[1971 250/8]

Originally Posted by cth350

you might want to coat the inside with something so that the bladder and the metal don't meet. The metal will win and the bladder would get a few pinhole leaks.

-CTH

Something like 1/4" foam sheet. Good idea.

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