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#1
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w123 electric window issue
I am trying to trouble shoot my non op Left front window on the '77 280CE.
I replaced the switch with a new one I bought many years ago for my '76 300D , but it does not work at all ??? Both the new switch and the original CE switch feel the same when operated , so maybe the window motor is crook . What thoughts on how to test the window motor in the door? Last edited by Foxglove; 09-08-2020 at 12:51 AM. |
#2
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Electrics weird me out .
So I shifted the car out into the sunshine today , all the windows worked as they should ?? ! Confused , but happy again . |
#3
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I suspect a weak ground. Or corrosion build up around the electrical connections. That might not be your problem but it would not hurt to clean them.
The connections are easy to clean. Just remove the door panel and you will see the window motor and the two wires coming off of it. Just unscrew them from the terminal and clean both side of the connection. Also clean where they are screwed to the terminal. This is all a lot easier than it sounds. I am not sure where the ground attaches but I think on the 123 you can lift up the carpet in the trunk and see a bunch of brown wires all coming together and then screwed to the body. These can be unscrewed, cleaned with a bit of 600 sandpaper and screwed back down with a new screw. This cleaning of the electrical ground connections is something that needs to be done every twenty years or so anyway. |
#4
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I have a Diesel W123.
The Window Motors are not grounded to the Chassis like a Starter Motor is. Changing the direction of the current flow by way of the window motor wires is what changes the direction the motors turn. The front doors have the wire terminal blocks but the rears don't have that. On mine I found that the screws were loose and tightening the screws restored the window to working. If you need to get the window up or down you can remove the wires from the terminal block and add some other wire and take a Car Battery and apply one wire to each battery terminal. That causes the window to go one direction. Swapping the wires causes the windows to go the other direction. Any grounding must pass through the Window Switch. The original window switches can be taken apart and inside are 2 ball bearings and 2 coil springs which you don't want to use. The contact points are usually burned. On mine I scraped those with a small pocket knife and re-assembled the switches. Details on that found in the Repair Links. Fast navigation: Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links I also had a Power Window Motor stop working because the rear bearing lube got so hard and old the bearing stuck to the shaft.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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This is handy advice. I have never had a switch apart since there always seem to be plenty of them to go around if I needed a replacement.
But the more a person can rebuild the longer our Mercedes will last. |
#6
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Quote:
I have some aftermarket ones as I bought a bunch of used window switches on ebay and some were after market ones. The good news is that if you drove somewhere say to do some shopping and a Window won't roll up there is a good chance if you pull the window switch in the Counsel out and take it apart and clean the contacts you can get the window closed. Have not looked at this thread for a long time. Window Switch Repair http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/315148-300d-console-switch-repair.html I have no proof of this but I believe that Power Window Motors that are no longer lubed or the same with the Window Regulators increase the resistant the Power Windows have to over come and increase the amperage in the circuit. I believe that increased amperage burns the contacts sooner then normal.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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