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  #1  
Old 06-18-2021, 08:34 PM
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1971 280SE 4.5 Manual with A/C

Found a 1971 280SE 4.5, 4 door, Automatic Transmission with A/C, for parts, nearly complete. I took some clean interior and exterior parts. Are any engine/transmission/suspension etc parts worth getting? Front and rear windshields are good and most other glass, all tinted, very clean trim for front and rear windshields. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Also let me know if they are any parts you may need. Thank you.


Last edited by Thunder-71; 06-23-2021 at 12:35 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-18-2021, 09:10 PM
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If, indeed, it is a V8 (either 3.5 or a swapped in 4.5) with a manual transmission, the trans w/clutch housing, the flywheel & clutch, and the shift linkage could find a market.
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Old 06-18-2021, 11:30 PM
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location? -CTH
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  #4  
Old 06-18-2021, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cth350 View Post
location? -CTH


Lockport, Upstate New York.
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  #5  
Old 06-22-2021, 05:20 PM
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Check the rear axle for the BOGE Hydrocompensator. Also the fuel pump regardless of condition.

A long shot, but check the door sills. Some of these came with stainless steel sills, but those are normally found only on the early cars, like a 1967 or 68.
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Old 06-22-2021, 05:44 PM
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IF YOUR SMART GRAB THE DISTUBUTOR FOR THE TRIGGER POINTS !
( YOU NEED A HEX DRIVE TO REMOVE THE HOLD DOWN BOLT )
CAN'T BUY THEM ANYMORE
SEND ME MY REWARD ASAP LOL $525 ON EBAY ( AND THATS A GOOD PRICE )
i HAVE SEEN THEM GO FOR $1,200
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Old 06-22-2021, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idle View Post
Check the rear axle for the BOGE Hydrocompensator. Also the fuel pump regardless of condition.

A long shot, but check the door sills. Some of these came with stainless steel sills, but those are normally found only on the early cars, like a 1967 or 68.


Is the hydrocompensator what replaced the axle spring for the early cars? Also is the fuel pump at the rear like the early cars? No stainless sills. Thanks again for your good advise.
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  #8  
Old 06-22-2021, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aluminum View Post
IF YOUR SMART GRAB THE DISTUBUTOR FOR THE TRIGGER POINTS !
( YOU NEED A HEX DRIVE TO REMOVE THE HOLD DOWN BOLT )
CAN'T BUY THEM ANYMORE
SEND ME MY REWARD ASAP LOL $525 ON EBAY ( AND THATS A GOOD PRICE )
i HAVE SEEN THEM GO FOR $1,200


Thanks for the good tip, I would have gotten it today but my hex drive was in my garage, will get it tomorrow. Come see one of the earth's wonders, Niagara Falls, I will treat you to famous Buffalo chicken wings and all the beer you can drink!
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aluminum View Post
i HAVE SEEN THEM GO FOR $1,200
Wait. What? You've got to be sharting me.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunder-71 View Post
Is the hydrocompensator what replaced the axle spring for the early cars? Also is the fuel pump at the rear like the early cars? No stainless sills. Thanks again for your good advise.
Yes on the hydro thing. It is held in by two cap socket screws. Large ones, like 12 mm or so. And bring a long breaker bar as they must be torqued to just under a million pounds.

The other end is removed with a 17 or 19 mm wrench. When you see it, if it is there, you will realize that removing it is no big deal.

The fuel pump is at the rear on the drivers side, just right by the tire. Now a note of caution here.... The ones worth getting are the old stye for the mechanical injection. The 4.5 and 3.5 used a pump like you will find on any 116 or 107.

But there appeared to be a bit of crossover and early pumps have been found on later cars. It could be this was a fix installed by a pervious owner when these FI pumps were cheap and the 116 107 versions were not be found used.

Anyway, while you are under there checking on the Hydro check out the fuel pump. Even if it is the new style there should be a metal cover over it and theses were used on the early mechanical FI cars and have a value to owners of those cars since this metal cover tends to rust out.
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  #11  
Old 06-22-2021, 07:16 PM
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ALSO......

Look on the firewall for the MAP sensor. This is a can looking thing with four wires going into it via one plug and a vacuum hose. Suck on the vac hose and if the vac holds grab it. It is located on the firewall right in the center.

Of course, if this car has air suspension then grab all of that you can.

I think the big horns were no longer used by this time, but if the horns are large and have the letters HOFSA on then then grab them, too. Even as cores they are worth far more than you will pay for them.
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  #12  
Old 06-22-2021, 11:12 PM
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Hey,
Are you saying trigger points are that valuable?
I have a drawer full of Djet distributors I pulled from Pick n Pull cars when they were still there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aluminum View Post
IF YOUR SMART GRAB THE DISTUBUTOR FOR THE TRIGGER POINTS !
( YOU NEED A HEX DRIVE TO REMOVE THE HOLD DOWN BOLT )
CAN'T BUY THEM ANYMORE
SEND ME MY REWARD ASAP LOL $525 ON EBAY ( AND THATS A GOOD PRICE )
i HAVE SEEN THEM GO FOR $1,200
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W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT
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  #13  
Old 06-23-2021, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder-71 View Post
Found a 1971 280SE 4.5, 4 door, Automatic Transmission with A/C, for parts, nearly complete. I took some clean interior and exterior parts. Are any engine/transmission/suspension etc parts worth getting? Front and rear windshields are good and most other glass, all tinted, very clean trim for front and rear windshields. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Also let me know if they are any parts you may need. Thank you.


The car is column shift AUTOMATIC, sorry for my oversight.
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  #14  
Old 06-23-2021, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idle View Post
Check the rear axle for the BOGE Hydrocompensator. Also the fuel pump regardless of condition.

A long shot, but check the door sills. Some of these came with stainless steel sills, but those are normally found only on the early cars, like a 1967 or 68.

The Hydrocompensator is there and seems in very good condition but I will appreciate your advise as to the best easiest and safest way to remove it. Your advise will be appreciated.

Last edited by Thunder-71; 06-23-2021 at 10:07 PM.
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  #15  
Old 06-24-2021, 02:08 AM
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Even with the shocks off and axle fully extended there is still a lot of pressure from the compensator. Once I used a pair of long clamps tightened enough to hold the pressure then removed the bracket then loose the clamps. the compensator won't fly out like a spring will. You might grab the entire axle and work on it at home. The 3.27 axles are somewhat valuable.

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W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT
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