Seeking Brake M/C Solution for 2JZ Swap into W115

[jfbrink]

Hi,

I'm in the process of swapping a 2JZ into my 76 W115. It's going well, but I have an issue with the master cylinder outlet for the right front caliper being too close to the J2Z intake manifold.

These are the approaches I'm exploring:

1. Bent a new line. NOPE, no room.

2. Install a 90 degree fitting in RF port. NOPE, no room.

3. Install plug in RF port and tee in LF port. MAYBE? I've never seen an M/C with separate RF and LF ports, even with big calipers, but I assume MB did this for a reason? Thoughts?

4. Find another M/C that will bolt to booster with 24mm bore to satisfy front brakes and proportioning valve to emulate smaller bore for rear brakes, as well as bottom or left-side-only ports. MAYBE, but this imaginary M/C will only have a single port for LF and RF so how is it different from #3?

Any suggestion/insight would be appreciated.

Jesse.

[Frank Reiner]

#3
Separate front ports avoid a tee, but so what; the rear circuit contains a tee!

[cleeves]

This project sounds fabulous!

Will you be overhauling the drivetrain to be capable of accepting what the 2JZ is capable of, or run the 2JZ conservatively?

Please save your 300D engine. I have the same one - OM617.910, and it's not too common. How many miles?

-Henry

[cleeves]

Regarding the M/C - if it were me I'd look at the geometries of other MB's from the 60s, 70s, and 80s, and see if any of them would fit the 24 mm socket and provide better clearance. Might be as easy as a drop in, but it might not.

-H

[cleeves]

You could always just run it until it wrecks the axles and then overhaul it post carnage ...

[t walgamuth]

Originally Posted by Frank Reiner

#3
Separate front ports avoid a tee, but so what; the rear circuit contains a tee!

I agree with Frank.

[jfbrink]

Great. Thanks for the feedback! Number 3 seemed like a sensible choice to me, too.

I was told when I bought the car that the engine was not original, but was "newer". I can attest that it is not original, given how sloppily all the accessories were attached when I got it, but I don't know the model or year. It certainly runs well and gets decent mileage, I just sometimes have to drive up hills.

I'm going with an N/A 2JZ from a 1999 Lexus GS300, and I drive like a grandma, so I don't think I will stress the axles and diff that much. Certainly, 220HP/220FT LBS is a significant increase, but they seem quite robust.

I'm one weekend into the build, and so far I've done two things. I located and mocked up the Lexus fuel pump in the stock tank... right under a perfectly-sized factory access panel in the trunk, for easy maintenance. This is the first swap I've done where the car came with a return fuel line, and at the same time it's the first swap I've done where the engine has a returnless pump! After roughing in the pump, I carved out the front crossmember a bit so that I can push the engine back as far as possible to give room for radiator & fans. I foolishly did not measure the stock Z-axis location of the transmission output shaft, so once I reverse engineer what that was, I may need to cut a bit more to maintain level.

I'll be using factory W115 engine mounts with custom brackets. The transmission mount is stock Lexus rubber attached to a lightly modified W115 bracket. I didn't even have to move the trans bracket in its slots -- it was perfectly aligned for the Lexus from the factory. I don't think I'll have to do anything to the transmission tunnel. I plan to modify the W115 two piece driveshaft to work with my IS300 transmission (which has a slip yoke, unlike GS300).

Over the course of this week, I've been drawing up two wiring diagrams, one for the 2JZ engine harness, stripped of all unnecessary wires, and one for a light customization of the W115 body harness. I'm going to power both harnesses from a heavily modified fuse box from a 2010-11 Kia Soul. It gives a much cleaner look and modern components. These fuse boxes are great for engine swaps as they pack 26 fuses and 11 relays into a compact, attractive box, all of which are slip-in wire terminals, so it can be completely reconfigured internally to match your needs.

If people are interested, I can start a build thread with images.

Anyway, that's it for now. Thanks for the input, it was very helpful.

Jesse.

[cleeves]

Originally Posted by jfbrink

Great. Thanks for the feedback! Number 3 seemed like a sensible choice to me, too.

I was told when I bought the car that the engine was not original, but was "newer". I can attest that it is not original, given how sloppily all the accessories were attached when I got it, but I don't know the model or year. It certainly runs well and gets decent mileage, I just sometimes have to drive up hills.

I'm going with an N/A 2JZ from a 1999 Lexus GS300, and I drive like a grandma, so I don't think I will stress the axles and diff that much. Certainly, 220HP/220FT LBS is a significant increase, but they seem quite robust.

I'm one weekend into the build, and so far I've done two things. I located and mocked up the Lexus fuel pump in the stock tank... right under a perfectly-sized factory access panel in the trunk, for easy maintenance. This is the first swap I've done where the car came with a return fuel line, and at the same time it's the first swap I've done where the engine has a returnless pump! After roughing in the pump, I carved out the front crossmember a bit so that I can push the engine back as far as possible to give room for radiator & fans. I foolishly did not measure the stock Z-axis location of the transmission output shaft, so once I reverse engineer what that was, I may need to cut a bit more to maintain level.

I'll be using factory W115 engine mounts with custom brackets. The transmission mount is stock Lexus rubber attached to a lightly modified W115 bracket. I didn't even have to move the trans bracket in its slots -- it was perfectly aligned for the Lexus from the factory. I don't think I'll have to do anything to the transmission tunnel. I plan to modify the W115 two piece driveshaft to work with my IS300 transmission (which has a slip yoke, unlike GS300).

Over the course of this week, I've been drawing up two wiring diagrams, one for the 2JZ engine harness, stripped of all unnecessary wires, and one for a light customization of the W115 body harness. I'm going to power both harnesses from a heavily modified fuse box from a 2010-11 Kia Soul. It gives a much cleaner look and modern components. These fuse boxes are great for engine swaps as they pack 26 fuses and 11 relays into a compact, attractive box, all of which are slip-in wire terminals, so it can be completely reconfigured internally to match your needs.

If people are interested, I can start a build thread with images.

Anyway, that's it for now. Thanks for the input, it was very helpful.

Jesse.

I would love to see a build thread with images. I was always curious about a 2JZ swap in these as it in theory should fit the narrow bay much better than a V8. Can't think of a better I6 to swap than a 2JZ either.

It makes more sense to swap it in too given that your engine isn't original. I hope you are able to keep most of the instrument panel original! The W115 sets a high bar with its lovely mid century geometric cluster.

-Henry