230 clutch dragging
 

I have a Mercedes 230 compact, 6 cylinder, around 1970 vintage, with a 4 speed manual gearbox.
I have recently replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders and don't seem to be able to bleed the clutch adequately. The clutch will only partially disengage and I can't put it into gear with the engine running.
Does anyone know of any tricks for clutch bleeding on this model or have any other ideas as to what is causing this problem?

I suggest you try bleeding it once more.

In the mean time try putting it in second then first or reverse.

I'm not familiar with the system on your car, so my advice may be incorrect...

On the models, like my '66, with the master cylinder located just behind/above the clutch pedal, there was a trick where you ran a clear PVC hose from the left front brake caliper bleeder screw (on a left hand drive car), over to the bleeder screw on the clutch slave.

You filled the brake master reservoir, cracked the bleeder on the caliper, pushed the brake pedal down until the clear PVC hose was full of fluid, attached it to the bleeder on the slave, cracked open the bleeder on the slave, and then continued pumping the brake pedal to reverse bleed the clutch system. It's a bit fiddly, but works.

Sure you do.

Thanks for the replys.
I have already tried a reverse flush using a syringe, with no luck, so I might try the reverse flush using the brake system, as suggested.

I have finally got my clutch to work by extending the M/C push rod about 10 mm and*removing virtually all the slack.
There is no air in the hydraulics and no free play in the clutch mechanism in the bell housing.
I still think that this is fixing the symptom rather than the cause as it worked before disassembly (but with a tiny bit of drag).
I suspect that the pressure plate is not lifting evenly and may not have*been helped by me compressing it fully in my press when I couldn't see anything wrong with it?
Anyway, hopefully it will keep behaving itself.