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  #1  
Old 09-29-2002, 10:30 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Rebuilding heater control valves on W108

Well, I finally got around to the heater controls on the 280. Need to replace the right red one (lever broken off, naturally).

I finally found the valves, assuming they were stuck took a pair of plier to them and got them working, but now (actually, before I moved them) at least one leaks.

I've been told there is a kit to repair these, has anyone done this? Anything I need to do (other than lots of penetrating oil on those rusty screws!)? I don't see the kit in FastLane, but was told it is a pair of o-rings for each valve.

I'm going to be draining the coolant anyway (stupidly didn't replace the thermostat when I did the water pump), so thought I just dive in and fix the valve at the same time. It's going to get cold enough soon that I will want some heat.

Thanks in advance!

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #2  
Old 09-30-2002, 01:23 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: eastern ND
Posts: 657
psfred,
My Catalog "B" shows the two o-rings, one just above the water outlet and another smaller 0-ring just below the outlet, or a total of four o-rings for the split heating system. Top o-ring makes sense (seals top plate), bottom o-ring doesn't (I wouldn't use an o-ring for a shaft packing seal but I guess you never know). Catalog also shows a strange clip like thing just to left of control valve's left fire wall mounting hole. Haven't had one apart and catalog doesn't show exploded view but I can't imagine anything more complicated than two butterfly valves in a common housing. Give us the run down when you get it fixed.
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  #3  
Old 09-30-2002, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern Calif. (Fairfield Area)
Posts: 2,225
Peter,

After you remove the circlip, you slide the valve out noting position and replace the two O rings. I would suggest the dealer or Miller's in Southern Cal as sources. Hopefully you can get them out without destroying them since they are made of brass. MB made a special for the job. I used to have one. The colored levers can be bought as original equip or a company that advertises in the STAR sells screw on units that require no disassembly. I installed a set years ago, and they worked quite well.Remember to install those valves so they rotate full open and full closed.

Peter
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Old 09-30-2002, 07:38 PM
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Thanks guys!

This may wait until the weekend, I'm too old to crawl around in the car with a flashlight at night to fix anything anymore!

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #5  
Old 09-30-2002, 09:49 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,316
The consensus on the mercedes-veterans list when this came up was to remove the valve and take it to Home Despot or a good HW store to buy o-rings that fit.
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'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #6  
Old 10-03-2002, 12:49 PM
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Location: Northern Calif. (Fairfield Area)
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Peter,

According to my microfiche, the part #s for the 2 seals are: 000-835-12-98 and 000-835-13-98. You need 2 of each per car. I still have a few of each, but I will need them when I have problems with my 230SL,280SL, or 3.5 coupe. They should be available from MB.

Peter
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