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  #1  
Old 10-11-2002, 12:57 PM
SeattleMerc
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How did I do?

Hi...trailered home my first Mercedes last night. It's a 1972 280SE 4.5. Original Black Paint, Tan Interior. Runs, but needs a tune up. Chrome is perfect and complete, but star is missing. Interior is in perfect original condition including Becker radio. Wood needs to be refinished. Some rust in wheel wells. Brakes do not work. I have three questions.

1) I paid $125.00 for this car. Is this about right (roughly) for a car of this condition?

2) The odomoter reads 54K miles. The drivers seat looks like it has never been used. Any trick or way to determine if this is 54K original miles?

3) The trunk is locked shut. Key goes in, turns right to left, pushes in, but no love. Trunk is totally closed shut. Scary thing is that the guy I bought it from said he had never opened it. I'm hoping that I don't get to be the one to find Jimmy Hoffa!

Thanks all for helping an enthusiastic neophyte.

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  #2  
Old 10-11-2002, 02:37 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 378
You paid at least $1000 too little in my opinion, depending on
the condition of the under carriage and other body parts.
Look at the pedals to see how worn they are. Look inside the
oil filler cap to see if it is gunked up like an old Ford or if it is
relatively clean. This won't tell you mileage, but it will show
if the oil was changed regularly. Also look inside the cooling
tank to see how clean that is.
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1967 250SL
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  #3  
Old 10-11-2002, 03:09 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
Keep messing with the trunk.... I just got a 1974 280 that the Original owner thought would not open.. LOL.. I inherited some tools which he had not seen in 10 years.... use a spray lub/penetrant... etc... and check to see if there are any latches in the passenger compartment....
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  #4  
Old 10-11-2002, 10:06 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,350
If yours is anything like my 77 300d, it came with two keys. One is round and one is square. One will open everything including the glove box and trunk. The other will only open the doors and ignition. This latter key is designed to be given to valet parkers who then cannot access the trunk or glovebox. I guess that you have the latter key. Try it in the glovebox and see what happens.
I also agree that you should have paid a lot more for the car.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #5  
Old 10-12-2002, 08:06 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Kitchener, Ontario
Posts: 221
Its worth way more than that as parts. Evaluate it carefully before you start putting the money into it though or it may be hard to know where to stop.

As for the key go to the MB dealer with the ownership and they can get you the master key for Germany, I did this with my '69 and they had it in a few days for only about $35. Apparently they keep the key data going way back at the very least. They also made extras of all the keys and kept a set. They are serious about security, you'll find it hard to locate key blanks for example, and if you go to the dealer for a replacement, they need to have proof of ownership and a picture ID as weel if I remember it right.

Mark
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  #6  
Old 10-12-2002, 02:52 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Trunk is a bit strange -- turn key to the LEFT and push in, should open trunk. May take several tries, and it helps to turn it to the right, first. Does not open with just the pushbutton unless the vac locking system is UNLOCKED. Fat chance the vac system is working properly! You can try the vac system with a MitiVac -- there is only one vac line to the interior (yellow plastic). Attach pump and see it if holds vac. Mine die, what a surprise. If it does, unlock the driver's door and the trunk lock should work properly.

You got a steal. You will need to do the following: replace all brake hoses -- they are surely rotten with age, whatever the milage is. You probably also need a rebuilt or replacement master cylinder -- check for evidence of paint damage to the booster under the master cylinder. Any evidence of the presence of brake fluid (peeled paint) means the maste cylinder is leaking.

You should also plan to replace pads and probably re-build calipers -- if you have NO brakes, the chances the fluid and calipers are safe to use is nil. Not too expensive, but don't take chances.

If it runs, most likely the fuel pump and injectors are fine. I'd invest in a tuneup (new plugs, wires, cap, rotor), then check the wiring and the resistance on the two temp sensors (small rectangular plugs, on in the iar filter housing and the other in the front water crossover in the intake manifold --I can give you specs). Make sure the one in the intake horn is plugged in.

Get some RedLine or Techron gas treatment when you get the brakes fixed, drive out what gas is in there, then add the tratement and fill up with good premium. Should clean out the injectors and plugs pretty fast.

Worst problem you are likely to hvae with the EFI is a bad MAP sensor or throttle position switch.

No way to tell if the 54,000 is original or not if there are not service records with the car.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #7  
Old 10-12-2002, 03:03 PM
SeattleMerc
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WOW...Thanks!

Thank you everyone for the thoughful replies...I got something out of each post. With each post, my wife get's a little more philosophical about having a vintage car in the yard! One last question. Is there any emergency trunk latch/opener in the 1972 280SE? I have looked in the passenger compartment, removed the rear seat, etc, but have not been able to locate any. Perhaps there was not one on this model. In the meantime, I will play with the Vac system. Sounds like it will be a useful education!
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  #8  
Old 10-12-2002, 04:50 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Just found the secret -- turn key left, then about half way back to horizontal. Push in -- lid should unlatch. If you hear the latch "snap" it means that the hook is opening then slipping off the lever and snapping back closed -- fiddle the key until you can push it in without the "snap" -- trunk will open. I'm going to take mine apart and see what is going on here -- probably worn. You may need to press down on the lid to get the hook free, too.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #9  
Old 10-15-2002, 01:05 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: near Scranton, PA
Posts: 5,407
As kerry edwards said, which key do you have? If it's the square one and your trunk wont open, something is wrong. If it's the round one, you will NEVER get it open with that key. You will need the master key.
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1972 280SE 4.5
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  #10  
Old 10-15-2002, 02:34 AM
SeattleMerc
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It's the square one. I believe that it is due to some problem relating to the vac system. I am still trying to determine if there is an emergency trunk latch/opener somewhere inside the car. Thanks!

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