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#1
11-22-2002, 12:16 AM
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woohoo! Radiator now leak-free!
My radiator had a huge leak on the top seam. Local shops quoted me upwards of $150 to fix it! I ordered one off ebay for $40, so I figured it gave me the liberty to solder the old one myself. Well, I fixed it! That's right, those shops that were going to charge me $150 lost out big time, all it cost was about $6 for solder and flux (and I have a LOT left over)! I redid the whole top seam and it doesnt drip at ALL. So I guess I have a spare radiator now
 The moral: Don't let yourself get ripped off! They said it would be hard to do because if I tried myself I might melt the core... BS!
__________________
Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k 
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#2
11-22-2002, 04:10 AM
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Atta Boy!
__________________
Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"
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#3
07-20-2003, 12:14 AM
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Tomguy, I just discovered a top seam radiator leak too. The rad is otherwise in good shape I think. I wonder if you would briefly describe how you removed the cap and soldered that seam. That comment the rad shop guy made about melting the core scared me a little. I've soldered copper tubing so I know about flux and stuff, but never worked on a rad. Thanks in advance. Bill
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#4
07-20-2003, 02:38 AM
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Yeah TomGuy!
Every time you open your hood, you can take yet another win! Mark p.s. A leak there is not necessarily a harbinger. I did the same fix on a 300SD, and never had another problem with that rad.
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#5
07-20-2003, 02:44 AM
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Follow-up for Bill4247:
Before your solder, do a good cleaning, and wire brush the outside zone. Maybe a good flush and some extra muriatic acid at the leak, for this reason: The solder will "curl" around to the inside of the rad. You want that to be bare metal too. Mark Shinnick www.mastertimer.com
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#6
07-22-2003, 12:37 AM
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Well, my whole top seam (front and back) was BADLY chewed up, depending on how bad yours is, here is what I did:
First, I wire-brushed and sanded off as much paint and junk off the seam and about 2cm above it as possible. Then, I melted out the old solder and took it out (with a nail and screwdriver, while it was liquid). I then CAREFULLY pried the seam apart (I did crack the lip at one part, but while I was soldering it it filled in nicely. Moral: BE CAREFUL and GO SLOW!). Then I scraped the leftover junk out of the seam (burnt rad sealant? Rust? Who knows - but there was a lot of buildup I took out w/ a screwdriver, then blew the rest out). Put the flux in it, melted it a LITTLE, then took the hammer and CAREFULLY tapped the seam closed again. Then I proceeded to solder the whole length of the seam.
__________________
Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k
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#7
07-22-2003, 12:41 AM
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A radiator shop usually uses a large rosebud or a special soldering jig so they can heat the entire seam at once -- goes a lot faster that way, and they always paint the rad before the send it back, too!
Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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