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#1
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Automatic trans column shift shaft play
I have recently had a problem shifting from 1st to drive and drive to 1st with my automatic transmission on my 1963 220 SEb cabriolet 111 chassis due to selector binding. It can be done but it is not a smooth operation. Visual inspection reveals that there is considerable play/wobble at the selector shaft base after it exits the firewall. I am attaching a picture from a parts manual that looks as if there are some bushing in that area. If they are in fact replaceable bushings, has anyone had the opportunity to attempt replacing these items? Do you have to remove the entire steering column assembly? Does it require any special MBZ tools?
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#2
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Well Gregg, since no one has given you any reply, I will take a stab...
My 68 250S has play as well, so I blindly ordered two parts from aftermarket, thinking that these are the most commonly worn out parts. On your marvelous scan here, I think that they are part #s 53 and 51. However, you are indicating play at the bottom of the column, and you will probably need the appropriate parts from a dealer. From the drawing, it looks fairly straight-forward, but kind of a PITA. Please let us all know what you did. A lot of people read these posts, but don't actually respond-but everyone learns a little!
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Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#3
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Also, FWIW, The ' R ' parts are for right hand drive cars sold in UK and Japan, and Hong Kong, etc.
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Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#4
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Ed,
I appreciate your taking the time to make the lone reply. I had replaced your mentioned parts #53 and #51 previously because #51 had become so worn that it had fallen off its connecting knob. It was a bear to press on in the confined available space. I ended up using a short 2x4 for leverage. I am attaching a more recent parts page with an updated display that more acurately represent my 1963 model 111 chassis. I think that the notated items and #21 are the ones needing replacement. I will post the results when completed. Gregg |
#5
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Here is a picture of the column shift item in my car that needs attention. The shaft end is in the middle of the photo, partially blocked by a black electrical lead. Still trying to get info on what I need to remove to replace the suspected worn bushings.
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#6
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...what about this.
It looks like #14 bolts through the firewall with 4 studs, could these be loose? Or is the whole #14 worn out.
__________________
Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#7
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Ed,
The assembly listed as #14 in the first pictoral is firmly attached to the firewall, so it is not the attachment bolts. I can physically wiggle the column shift shaft tip (shown in the previous submission picture) as it protrudes from #14 giving me the impression that it is bushings inside of #14 or further up on the shaft. Besides determining if I can just purchase bushings or must obtain an entire #14 assembly, I am wondering if I can accomplish the repair without removing the entire steering column. In other words, can I just unbolts the four bolts on #14, remove the old and install the new without having to worry about things becoming disassembled internally further up the shaft or a need for special MBZ tools? |
#8
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It LOOKS like you need to take out 35,34, and 17 first, then remove the nuts of this bracket from the inside of the car. This should allow you to remove the bracket and replace the bushings.
What I cannot tell from the picture is this; It looks like the end of the shaft has a thread on it, but I can't tell what is screwed onto it. All in all, it looks very doable, just a bit of a tight squeeze. Take picture, etc. as I am sure there are many of us who need to do this repair!
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Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
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