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Cleaning Carburetors
What can I soak the larger parts in to get them really clean? In this case I have a several Zenith Carbs that I plan to rebuild and wish to get as clean as possible.
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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty |
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I think Chemclean and Berryman's both have one gallon carb cleaning pots... like one gallon paint cans which have a little pan with holes in it and a wire handle... to retrieve your stuff after you have soaked it.. this is always what I have used....
Then you take it out, clean it in soapy water, and dry with air power.... wearing appropriate eyeprotection... because you will get it in you face... be sure all passages are open and clean...but check to see if some of the materials will be ruined by putting them into this cleaning solution.. you may have to just wash some parts...don't want to disolve them.... |
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Quote:
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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty |
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Agree with leathermang. The soak in the gallon can, rinse with water, and blow dry approach is the way to go. Gunk carb cleaner has worked well for me. Be sure to get some heavy duty rubber gloves as well as eye protection.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
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>>>Be sure to get some heavy duty rubber gloves as well as eye protection.
I wear a face mask when working with solvents..especially carb cleaner.. that stuff is noxious!
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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty |
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Quote:
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Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#7
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Make sure you leave the gold color on the carbs! This is a chromate anodizing to keep fuel from corroding the zinc (they aren't aluminum) and if removed, they will eventually leak! Right through the sides of the bowls, no less.
Unless you have really hardened on crud inside, carb cleaner will clean them up nicely. I've never had to use anything more drastic except on one "rescue" that had gotten water in it. Remember, they DON'T have a polished finish from the factory! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#8
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I quit using the dunk method, and just use a spray can of carb cleaner on the suspect orifices...
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Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#9
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Quote:
The carbs I'm using now still have some amazingly hard crud in the fuel bowls.. Is there any harm in using a polishing tip on the outisde of the carb walls to clean them up?
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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty |
#10
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Stay away from any orifices and you should be all right, but if it is really stuck down good and not soluble in gasoline, why distrub it? The crud is probably mineral desposits from water sitting in the carbs, and will be somewhat harder than the metal.
Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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