Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Vintage Mercedes Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-02-2003, 09:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 854
How to replace heater valve O-rings?

I now have access to the inside of the dash because I foolishly thought I would replace a light bulb in the heater lever unit... Oiy...

The reason my levers are all broken up, is that the valves are frozen.

Do I need to remove this valve from the engine compartment to replace the O-rings, or can I just pull the guts out from inside the dash...?
__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-02-2003, 10:03 PM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,316
You need to take the valve assembly out. On each rotating valve, there is a circlip that holds the rotating part. You remove the circlip and then work the rotating part out of the body. I would throw it in some carb cleaner for a day or so.

BE CAREFUL to not exert too much force on the little square piece with the screw hole in it. They break off easily - BTDT.
__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-03-2003, 09:37 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 854
Thanks for the comeback Chuck, and another congrats on your car.
And thanks for the tip on the fragility of the thing. I was going to have at it with a plier, but will go slow now...

Oh, and what does BTDT mean?
__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-03-2003, 11:19 AM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,316
BTDT = Been there, done that!

Also, after I broke mine, I got another unit, so I have some parts if you need them - including one good valve!
__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-04-2003, 05:44 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 854
Thanks for the comeback, Chuck.

This weekend I am going to tackle pulling the rear end out of a V8 in a muddy junkyard (Yuk oh) and if I have time and energy will look at the heater levers, etc. This car is gorgeous too, was junked for a minor engine fire. Even has all its wheel covers! And good wood!
__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-10-2003, 12:00 AM
Tomguy's Avatar
Vintage Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: near Scranton, PA
Posts: 5,102
I got my heater levers today: Beautiful Febi set for $75 with shipping!
I put the unit back in today. So far I've spent 2 hours total on the heater levers (6-8 my you-know-what).

Now... my heater valves aren't frozen, but rather hard to turn. I don't see how to take them out. (I didnt unscrew the slotted screws on them even... I don't want to touch them w/o asking).
How do you take them out? Unscrew that, then the circlip holds the whole valve assembly in there? I didn't see any clip
__________________
Current:
2018 Chrysler Pacifica Limited
1999 Chrysler 300M - 211,xxx

My Mercedes Benz 108 and 109 resource site

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-10-2003, 09:13 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 854
Tom,
That is what I see that needs to be done...
I can just see the circlip behind the "lever".

The problem I have, is trying to get the slotted screw to turn.

You have to have just the right length driver to properly seat into the screw head, then have a small, insanely strong hands to push and turn the thing without stripping out the slot...OIY VAY!
__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-10-2003, 08:42 PM
Tomguy's Avatar
Vintage Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: near Scranton, PA
Posts: 5,102
Ed: You too must be hesitating on this front, I am thinking of taking my 18-volt drill and putting the slotted bit in it and holding it in there TIGHT while SLOWLY trying to take it out. It will either remove it or strip the screw.
I can't see the circlip behind it but I'll take your words for it. But another thing: The cables for the air flow control (that go on to the heater levers too, not the valve ones) are stiff on the passenger side, and frozen on the driver's side. How do I lubricate the flap (that I can feel on the pass side, but not the driver's side)?
__________________
Current:
2018 Chrysler Pacifica Limited
1999 Chrysler 300M - 211,xxx

My Mercedes Benz 108 and 109 resource site

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-10-2003, 09:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Tom:

Most likely the cables are at fault, not the flaps, since they are just wire in a hole in the plastic case. Unless, of course, you have a family of mice living in there that built a nice nest in the heater box...... Don't laugh, I've seen it before, even on new cars.

Unclip the lever for the flap to check. You may need to remove the console cover -- one screw under the carpet on the passenger side, just hooks under the shift column (or somewhere, I don't remember) on the driver's side.

Heater lever lamps are accessable from the speaker gille, in case you didn't find them -- under the little black cap on top of the levers.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-10-2003, 11:33 PM
Tomguy's Avatar
Vintage Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: near Scranton, PA
Posts: 5,102
Quote:
Originally posted by psfred
Tom:

Most likely the cables are at fault, not the flaps, since they are just wire in a hole in the plastic case. Unless, of course, you have a family of mice living in there that built a nice nest in the heater box...... Don't laugh, I've seen it before, even on new cars.

Peter
Ok, so... how would I clean out the mice nest? Don't laugh, it WAS sitting for 4 years doing nothing. I tried to get most of the stuff out by pulling it out and then later, with the ShopVac, but I suppose that wasn't enough.
The passenger side one moves, just stiff. Suppose it'd work better if I greased the cable? If so... how DO you grease them?
__________________
Current:
2018 Chrysler Pacifica Limited
1999 Chrysler 300M - 211,xxx

My Mercedes Benz 108 and 109 resource site

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-11-2003, 11:30 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Penetrating oil is probably the best treatment on the cables, especially if they are bare, not covered with plastic. If the housing is plastic covered, you can only put some on the ends and work the cable back and forth.

Other than fishing with a wire and a vac, the only way to clean out the vents is to remove the heater box, a serious chore. I'd unhook the cables at the flap (under the console cover) and verify that they are dragging badly before I got excited -- the usual cause of stiff heater levers is the valves, not the flaps.

Mine are out of adjustment -- can't get the driver's side all the way to hot, can't tell if it is the valve or the flap at the moment, and it's very cold and windy outside today, will probably wait for warmer weather to work on them!

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-12-2003, 12:13 AM
Tomguy's Avatar
Vintage Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: near Scranton, PA
Posts: 5,102
Peter: The heater valves are tough to move, but the flap control for the driver's side is completely frozen.
I can't really get my oil can at a good angle to get into the cables either >_<
I've been working on the exhaust for now. I FINALLY got the -ass. side exhaust headers off, and the pipes off them, but I can NOT get the other pipe (the lower section they cracked off of) out of the pipe that goes into the muffler. but I will (probably Monday, dunno if I'll do any work on it tomorrow)
__________________
Current:
2018 Chrysler Pacifica Limited
1999 Chrysler 300M - 211,xxx

My Mercedes Benz 108 and 109 resource site

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-12-2003, 02:09 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Tom:

The exhaust header has probably been dented in by the clamp. If you can find an exhaust pipe expander (cute little thing that has steel sections that expand outwards when you tighten a bolt in the center), stick it in there and re-expand the pipe.

This may and may not get the pipe free enough to remove -- I usually just get a hacksaw blade holder out (the little on that leaves one end of the blade free) and slot the pipe so I can collapse it and get it out without ripping the muffler pipe up.

I hate exhaust work (which is why I still have a split header on the 280 SE 4.5). How bad is getting the left manifold off?

The only way the flap can get completely stuck is if there is a mouse nest in there -- sounds like more fishing, or worse, heater box removal. The valves will be easier with the heater core out......

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-12-2003, 05:18 PM
Tomguy's Avatar
Vintage Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: near Scranton, PA
Posts: 5,102
Peter: Well, then it'll have to remain stuck (in the heater on) position. I am NOT taking the whole thing apart. Too much of a P.I.T.A..
The exhaust headers on the pass (rt?) side weren't too bad. You WILL need a 12mm combo wrench though. I needed a 13mm one to undo the tranny dipstick and move it a little out of the way to fit the wrench in and take the headers out.
However, I do NOT know how hard it will be if your pipes below arent cracked. Mine were, so I was able to pull them up and take the upper one apart, then remove the lower one with the pipe still on and cut the bolts. It will be a PITA too unless you let it soak in something (I used "Break-free CLP").
__________________
Current:
2018 Chrysler Pacifica Limited
1999 Chrysler 300M - 211,xxx

My Mercedes Benz 108 and 109 resource site

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-12-2003, 06:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Tom:

A complete exhaust system is in the works anyway, I may just wait. I expect to have to cut the bolts unless I can break the heads off (the usual result on exhaust manifolds). I've heard the pipes tend to rust in place, too.

My left header is flattened about half way (college boy was driving the car before I got is, nuff said?), so I have to replace it at least, and I'm fully confident that both mufflers are shot.... another $600 plus shipping......

I finked out on the levers today, too cold.

Full heat is much better than none!

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page