m110 engine - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

a2aa · #1 01-17-2003, 04:10 PM

FIXING to rebuild a M110 engine. The top had been through the machineshop already. now I think that I will go ahead and redo the bottom due to seing alot of nasty died up oil and just nasty s*** all over.... I asked the machine shop to clean it up and if he can salvage the bottom end rather than rebuilding it, that that would be great esp. if the walls are looking good. I can still see some of the honing patterns on them. just need tha darn thing cleaned up.

Any tricks I need to know on these engines?? Or is this engine a straight forward -follow the book - kinda install???

Regards,

a2aa · #2 01-20-2003, 09:46 AM

I'm fron SAnMarcos. I was told the oposite thing by the repair CD that ".... some engines will still have crossing honing patterns if the engine has been well taken care of..." This is suppose to be a good sign

... In any case the people @ precision engine service in Austin will do the rest of the bottom end some time this millenium

.. hopefully this year, I should have the engine all assembled... Where in Texas are you from? Thanks for the reply

Happy Motoring...

leathermang · #3 01-20-2003, 10:04 AM

One item you might want to research while it is apart is the distributor shaft...

I bought my 1974 280 from the original owner who happens to have a metal shop in a small town... he was very proud that he had 'fixed' or modified the dist in this one.... he talked like it was a known defect in them from the factory.....

a2aa · #4 01-20-2003, 10:32 AM

You ofcourse

The machine shop is in 290 east near I 35 / 290 in Austin-- they are the "recommended" machine shop by Mercedes Benz of Austin. So whether it's good or not, i think they'll fix it up for me ..and assemble it as well. They did the top end last year, but I haven't gotten a chance to put it together. Everytime I look at the rest of the engine and look at the newly rebuilt top end I'd feel bad just getting them close together.

So, with much convincing, I was able to persuade my better half to have the bottom end rebuilt as well.
I bought the car knowing that I would one day rebuilt the engine. Now is the time. But I'm gonna have them put ti together for me so all I have to do is drop it in.

I'll keep you intouch

leathermang · #5 01-20-2003, 11:04 AM

I don't know why this thread is posting so much stuff out of sequence....

Sounds like you have the situation whipped.... must be nice to just have a pro put it all together then drop it in...

I went to SWT in the dark ages... 71 to 73 right out of the Army.. commuted from Austin on a motorcycle.....

tryan · #6 01-20-2003, 12:22 PM

the fact that the original factory honing pattern is still visible should tell you something.

psfred · #7 01-20-2003, 12:34 PM

Leatherman:

MB uses radiused rings, not sharp edged ones (like cheapo american engines used to have), plus small piston to bore clearance. This means that the hone marks should stay until the rings wear out. No honing marks, no oil at the top of the cylinder, hence faster wear. The upper part of the cylinder and the rings are lubricated by the oil carried in the microscopic cracks in the ring face (of chrome-moly rings) and the honing scratches.

Oil consumption is usually a result of weakened oil control rings -- if the engine is overheated or the rings anneal for some other reason, they don't spring out against the cylinder wall and don't scrape the oil off.

Abscence of crosshatching means the cylinder wall is almost certainly worn past the wear limit and needs to be re-bored with oversized pistons fitted, or new liners need to be installed and bored to original size.

My sister's Volvo turbo wagon with 160,000 miles on it blew a rad (and head gasket) a couple of years ago -- all four cylinders had good honinig crosshatch visible, it didn't use significant oil, and still runs very nicely.

Peter

leathermang · #8 01-20-2003, 01:11 PM

I have never heard of that....

Are the Deves rings like that , I wonder ?

300SDog · #9 01-21-2003, 08:08 PM

Look for Swedish piston rings.... made of softer metal, designed to wear and mate to bores without cutting into walls.

Otherwise, those are tapered bores - diamond honed, with nickel alloy glaze on iron block.

leathermang · #10 01-21-2003, 08:26 PM

Please explain all the facets of this Sentence...

"Otherwise, those are tapered bores - diamond honed, with nickel alloy glaze on
iron block."
And where the info came from ... ?

300SDog · #11 01-21-2003, 09:14 PM

60's mercs had tapered bores, slightly narrower at the bottom than at the top..... same process is used on Moto Guzzi motorcycles.

They did not use knock-out piston sleeves on 6 cyl., but nickel core was permanently mated to iron block.

Diamond hones were used to perfect the nickel glazing process, leaving surface buffed with ****-hair glaze.... something that no rebuild operation can ever duplicate.

I've seen alot of horrible rebuild abortions - especially by knuckleheads who chop the cylinder head like they would a chevrolet.

The ones who really crack me up are those who claim to rebuild mercedes diesels. If there's anything sacred in mercedes benz lore, its gotta be the short-block.

Anybody here lookin to buy an entirely rebuilt mercedes engine? Nah... I didnt think so!

leathermang · #12 01-21-2003, 11:57 PM

OK, 60's Mercedes engine... what year did they stop that ?

psfred · #13 01-22-2003, 08:27 PM

Which 60's benz engines? All the ones I know about are sleeved, both diesel and gas, including the V8s.

Peter

leathermang · #14 01-23-2003, 09:27 AM

240DieselDog, How about giving us some reference since that is a totally new concept for some of us...?
Any literature references you have seen... ?
Do you know what the machine looked like which could produce an aligned, tapered bore ? How were those bores supposed to be reconditioned without sending the block back to the factory ? I have never seen or heard of that process in 40 years of reading about engines.... and have never seen any special tools for sale to do that....

300SDog · #15 01-23-2003, 10:37 AM

Actually Fred, the V-8 is the *only* sleeved engine they built from the disasterous mid 60's 300 all the way into the powerful '70's and early '80's 450... i dunno much about anything after '84 because the new mercs just dont interest me.

If you do not believe what i say - go to parts catalogues #12030 (220Sb); #12813 (220-230-220D-240D) you will find NO piston sleeves...... Better yet call your MB dealer/parts dept. and see what they say when you ask to order 220Sb or 240D "piston sleeves."

For the good of this thread.... another problem of rebuilding the MB engine is the fact that pistons are ballanced to the crank - They came in different weights marked (a) (b) (c) or no mark at all.... A factory built engine might have combination of pistons at different weights (all the same size) - perfectly ballanced to the crankshaft...... few and far between are the rebuild shops that even bother to clean worn out piston tops to see how they are marked.... never mind matching the correctly weighted piston to each cylinder.

True enough, there are 1/2 dozen mechanics in every small town who are eager to "rebuild" an MB engine..... am certain they think they do the right thing when they order standard oversize pistons, drill fresh bores and shave the cylinder head waaay beyond specs..... some might even add metal to worn out camshaft lobes.

How much does it cost for new factory MB short block..... am guessing here: $3-5G ??