parting advice
 

I've come to the realization the '69 230/8 is going to have to go in the near future as the things needing work don't justify the cost outlay in parts let alone time. I'll probably look at selling whole when its time but I wonder whether I may be better off piecing it out. I have a manual transmission in it that I think may be worthwhile. The Zeniths are holding their settings though they need some small bits (little brass nozzle and a choke diaphram). Not sure if the long block is desireable or not regardless of compression, though I think its still good. Any thoughts out there?

Mark
Keeping eyes open for a decent 300D close to home....

What does the 8 stand for ?

I have been confused by this as well.

The british use this all the time. I think it stands for the non-S model, the smaller car we just call the 230 or 250.

Not sure though...:rolleyes:

Am guessing that rust is the issue.... this is terminal problem we all have seen..... a tragic thing as 114/115 from late '69 to '76(?) is extremely popular body style.

In addition to 4-speed trans. & linkage - I'd salvage the entire clutch assembly including the pedal and fluid reservoir.... as this can be sold as "kit" for somebody who wants to convert from automatic to standard shift...... only include the flywheel if you are trashing the engine, as it's ballanced to the original engine crankshaft.

Other valuable goodies to put on the shelf are heater lever controls... wiper/bright light multi-switch arm.... power sunroof motor..... chrome grill..... and possibly brake calipers.

You havent said how many miles are on the engine, but many people prefer the earlier single cam to the later twin cam 6 cyl engine..... somebody with worn twin camshafts on later model might buy your longblock if it's got reasonably low mileage and compression checks out..... more economical than buying new camshafts and carrier.

Get professional wet/dry compression test done and save the paperwork before you pull the engine...... then strip the car and crunch the rusted body (assuming this is what you've decided to do)

Also, how are the seats? If your '69 predates the collapsing later seats (which had feeble "safety precaution" fireproof padding that had no glue)... then the front seats too might be worth saving.

BTW, there was limitted run of 300D's in 115 body style.... If you snag one rust-free and attach your standard shift tranny - you'd be driving one helluva classic!!

/8 I believe denotes after '68, I don't know when it stops. However in my case I use it to say its not the 4 cyl engine.

Dog,
Heater lever controls? from the 114? I thought it was only the 108's that had the troubling heter levers. Interior is in good shape but I doubt I'm in a location to find a buyer willing to ship them. I was thinking of the W123 300D, but now you have me thinking...

I also have a '69 230/8 with a 4 spd. man. tranny. I don't need anything except possibly some Webers to replace the Zeniths. Am waiting to hear if 240 Ed ever retrieved those Webers from the junked 250S he saw. But except for the lousy MPG the Zeniths do everything else OK. But I don't need anything from yours right now. But who knows what'll bust down the road. All I can say is hang on to it - store it somewhere. I'll probably be asking for something. I'm keeping mine 'cause I like it and I've got a bunch of bucks in it.

Mark, my favorite benz I've ever owned was '73 280/8.... at one point the heater lever behind the dash snapped a nub that holds a cable.... different from the 108 problem where tiny plastic handle on plastic wheel always brakes off.

And what I'm tellin you about the seats is not a joke.....

Massive seats from late '60's contained highly flamable glue holding the fibers together..... then, sometime in early '70's MB "corrected" this problem with glueless crappy fibers that always caved in. Somewhere, someone who owns later model 114/115 with flat seats might want the entire interior including door panels out of the car - an easy job switching (irregardless of color) as all dashboards and consoles were black/dk.brown.

BTW, another carb conversion I've seen on 114's is Holly carbs that bolt right onto mercedes manifold just by drilling new holes in Holly carb base..... also making linkage adaptation.

Hell yes, the 114/115 body style is highly desirable.... I'd swap both of my 240D (123) standard shift diesels for *one* rust free standard shift 240D (114).

240DieselDog,
Were the crappy seat pads due to government regulations? I've seen similarly afflicted seats on other mid-70s German cars such as VW, Audi and BMW.
And yes, I really like the 114 cars, especally the earlier ones with the pretty bumpers and sturdy seat pads, unfortunately my '72 250 4-door has gotten really rusty. Fortunately, I have a nice, garaged and un-rusted, "72 250C now.
Years ago,one of the alloy heater control links broke in my 250. I fabricated a new steel one. Now I need to do the same in my 250C.

Happy Motoring, Mark

The story behind /8
 

I just wanted to clarify the /8 terminology a little bit:

When MB introduced the 114/115 model line in model year 1968, some of the model names were the same than with the fintails before. One example is the 200D.

In Germany, manufacturers have to com up with unique type code for each type to be entered on the title. This type is usually some cryptic abbreviation that has nothing to do with the marketing name. You could compare it with the first digits of the VIN.

For all 114/115 models they had the acronym /8 in this type code which indicated the model year of introduction.

Contrary to other cars, this acronym made it into common car lingo, so people in Germany are referring to all 114/115s with the name "Strich Acht" which means stroke eight.

If I remember correct, the 108/109 line had a similar acronym /9 which obviously has nothing to do with the year and never made it to common lingo. The german term for these cars is "Alte S-Klasse" - old s-class.

I dont know how far this lingo spread into other countries ...

Stefan